Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
  • Sign Up

shurik

Member
  • Content Count

    389
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by shurik

  1. Well, my now nearly 6-years old UM2 came to the point of being totally non-functional due to the error mentioned above. it took me several rounds of disassembling, checking, soldering and desperation. All that until I finally found this thread and got on the right track - PT100 resistance. It wasn't there. Knowing now where the problem is, it was fixed in 5 minutes of yet another soldering round and resulting resistance verification. All in all, many thanks to @gr5, @Torgeir and @Silures for the guidance! P.S. Ordered replacement board nevertheless.
  2. Thanks a lot! That's kind of reply I was hoping for, much appreciated.
  3. OK, let's ask simpler question - does anyone use Matchless block and can recommend it?
  4. My UM2 is soon going to turn 6 years old and it is unbelievable machine. Olsson block was installed once it got released, way, way back. It's parts show the age and wear and tear, so I am thinking of replacing/upgrading it. There are some options on 3dsolex site and an advise would be appreciated. Should I go for a new original Olsson block? Or to buy Matchless one? What benefit if any would it do? Maybe, there other quality nozzle/PTFE suppliers out there? After all, brass nozzles and Teflon insulators from 3dsolex do not last as long as I would wish them to be. And if asking - what fan shroud would you recommend to replace the original one? Many ways to go - would appreciate your opinions.
  5. After a while, the yoke and maybe, some other parts become distorted and bent. I just keep another set of Robert's feeder details and replace them from time to time when their time is due. After printing a replacement set, you may disassemble the feeder and almost certainly some parts will look worn out.
  6. UM2+ Reloaded! Would you believe I still use my 5.5 years-old UM2 and it is as good as ever? If time comes to replace it, just another one of the same class would do.
  7. I use TitanX of Formfutura and absolutely love this stuff. Zero warping, almost no smell, sticks to glass so much that I had to buy a new glass bed because of the cracks in the glass. The only disadvantage for me is rather limited colors choice - we print prosthetic hands for kids and they generally like colorful parts.
  8. Hi aubij, Could you elaborate please about your method of generating the city landscapes?
  9. Fantastic! Do you paint them after printing?
  10. Well, the amount of the replies is overwhelming... ? Is it something in the post?
  11. I'm running out of black ABS and need to re-stock. What are your recommendations for best quality ABS available in Europe? I mainly print parts of prosthetic hands for children and such, so it must be durable and to look good - top quality, in short. Thanks, Alexander
  12. Hi Sander, I do have some black dust under the belts on my 4-years old UM2 but it works yet. Do you suggest any special maintenance in this case?
  13. Hi, Yes. These are my settings for TPU (Ninjaflex): [material] name=Ninjaflex temperature=220 bed_temperature=50 fan_speed=100 flow=103 diameter=2.85 You can copy-paste them into your profile file.
  14. Guten Tag @Giuseppe Nagler, Meshmixer has the option of taking the outer shell of a model. Try to play with it.
  15. shurik

    Some examples

    It looks like a great stuff, but unfortunately, both of them won't ship to my place :-(
  16. shurik

    Some examples

    @Florisvh - your prints look lovely! Myself doing something similar, it would be nice to have a talk with you. Although my experience is limited to UM2, I find the white PLA (regardless of a brand) the most challenging to print. Lower temperatures and slower speeds usually help here, to some extent. On my machine, Colorfabb Woodfill prints well with .4 nozzle. You just need to have it clean, no other special tricks that I can think of. For the models as on the pics, 20 mm/s is really slow. You should be able to get good results at 30-50 mm/s. For most of the houses, no infill or very low infill is really needed, you can do some tests. And I use Cura 15.04.6 for 95% of my prints.
  17. Yes, as ultiarjan said, I forgot to scroll down the "Notification Settings" page and update the settings there. Have to say, that 2nd part of the page is completely invisible on the mobile device and one just have to guess it is there, as my intuitive guess was that the first "Save" button is at the bottom of the page and there is nothing more.
  18. Somehow I'm being bombarded by new email messages for every new post in this thread despite updating the notification settings a few times from the mobile.
  19. Well, let's try this one. Looks mostly good to me so far.
  20. Currently not employed , so if you need a beta tester or to help you to organize the migration properly this time, I'd be glad to help.
  21. Where do you all buy it? I still cannot find a supplier who could ship it to Israel for an acceptable price.
  22. Oh, yes, absolutely so. In fact, I kept oiling every piece of the flex before inserting, and kept an oiler (ex-dust remover) around the flex that went into the bowden. That probably made the filament even more slippery.
  23. Well, that wasn't simple at all. I cut pieces of flex long enough to be inserted into the bowden and then inserted the standard PLA into the feeder's wheels. That was enough for approximately 1/2 hours of printing, then a new piece of flex had to be inserted. The whole print took almost 7 hours... Other than that, everything was default - 220C, 40C bed, 0.2mm layers, 30mm/sec, 103% flow. The surface finish was perfect, the customer was ecstatic, and that what's really matter.
×
×
  • Create New...