simon

Exactly the same for me. I have a 5A PSU and the system shuts down when the heater is turned on. Have opened a tick but not had a reply yet. I guess they'll get around to it soon.

Thanks for the prompt replies guys. Much appreciated.

Hi All, just got my UM2 today. All was going well until I tried to print. I've identified the problem by going to the advanced setting and turning on the heated bed. As soon as the temperature setting goes 1 degree above the current plate setting, it trips out. every time. Basically as soon as it tries to heat the bed it trips. I've traced the wire both ends and can't find any short circuits. The main control PCB looks fine, no burn marks no smells, it actually looks kinda tidy in an Ultimaker sort of way. After tripping safely it reboots within about 4-5 seconds. Trips every time, reboots every time, although I don't want to tempt a serious failure so I'm not going to keep testing it. I found an image of the PCB someone put up about another issue. The only difference I could see was mine has a couple of Jumper covers over safety 1 and safety 2, is this correct. Any other ideas UM friends.

Well that's saved me wasting a little time and money on an experiment ! thanks :-)

I've been wondering if frosted glass would be an improvement for ABS. It's still a flat standard but the increased surface area might provide some extra bonding between the part and glass, which might help to prevent any lifting. I'll try this on my UM2 if and when I get it.

I haven't received my UM2 yet, and this is precisely the sort of concern I have about it. As the printer is supplied with PLA, not many new users have tried ABS yet it seems. I use an Afinia H series and only print ABS. The heated bed is set to 105 automatically, although I think it only reaches about 90-95. I always have the fan set to divert, so the part gets no fan cooling. I've printed literally 100's of parts like this, no problem. I don't think you can eliminate warping with ABS, certainly not without a heated chamber. But hopefully you can manage it to the point where it works well enough. The Afinia uses an intermediate platform between the heated plate and the part. They call it a 'perf' board (short for perforated I guess) and it looks like one of those blank PCB's you make projects on, but without the copper. The benefit of this is that the first layer of the raft actually squirts into the surface and bonds itself there. I run the printer in a metal cupboard to keep a good ambient temp (about 25 ish) and prevent drafts. After printing I remove the board and then with a sharp scraper, slice the part off. Then you peel off the raft. Works perfectly every time. The perf board provides just a bit of compliance (movement/flexibily) between the heated plate and the part. If there's no give in the system and the plate is very stiff, the stresses that build up in the part seem like they are strong enough break the bond between the part and glass. I'm thinking that I may have to modify my UM2 to replicate this proven method of printing ABS. I might even consider removing the side fans because I won't be using PLA, which would reduce head weight as well, but time will tell. If you make any progress with ABS, good or bad, please continue to share your results. I will when I get mine.

Apart from vapour smoothing you can also bond ABS with acetone very easily. I mainly design mechanical parts that often would required lots of support material. By sectioning your model and using push fit joints, in combination with a quick acetone bonds, you can construct large complicated very robust models using no support material. The acetone melts the plastic, and hence the bond is made using the parent material. If the part breaks it won't be because of a poor bond. Although ABS is petroleum based at can be recycled using a filament maker. Therefore all your support material and old designs can be melted down and reused.

I do a lot of importing and exporting in the UK. It's essential that on the importing invoice the 'import duty code' is very clearly stated. It needs to be one of the most obvious things on the invoice, big clear letters. Because I'm importing the UM2 from within the EU I'm OK. However if I import things from the USA I have to get the merchant to state the correct code on the invoice. You may have to find out from your own countries authorities what the specific code they have for a 3D printer is. Ultimaker may not know it, and it's not their responsibility to find out for you. In the UK a computer peripheral such as a printer or scanner is duty free, but if I don't get the merchant to state this really clearly on the invoice I'll end up paying duty. Although I can claim it back, I'll get charged 60-70 GBP to have the case re-assessed, which sort of defeats the point. Basically, the customs department is looking to charge you money if it can legitimately. If they don't find an 'import duty code' which defines the items as duty free, pretty quickly, when looking at the invoice, they'll apply a default code, which will carry a few percent. Occasionally you may get lucky and your item won't be charged because it slips thought the net, but I've found this less common in recent years. Best advice is to find out which code is correct and make sure Ultimaker clearly add it to the invoice (front and centre). They may already do this, but it's worth checking. I only know so much about this because I've found out the hard way, several times!!

Dear All, I'd like to start a new thread for ABS. Firstly a bit of background, can be skipped if you like. I just want to see some results of ABS on the UM2, and also the UM1. Currently I'm an Afinia H series (Up!) user (maybe not for much longer if Statasys get their way). Its a great little printer which for the last 12 months has churned out reliable nice quality prints. The Make Magazine's review of it last year was the reason for buying it, and has been spot on. Press print and walk away. Just what I wanted. However I'd been keeping my eye on the Ultimaker (after the same review) and when the UM2 was bought out, I decided now was a good time to upgrade. Although the Afinia will print PLA, it comes with ABS and the suppliers have a range of approved ABS materials, not PLA. The reason I wanted to upgrade to the Ultimaker 2 was to benefit from the larger build plate (now heated), the higher resolution and 'tweakability' of the UM2. ABS is a great material for printing. It can be used outdoors (well, more so than PLA), its incredibly easy to join (using acetone, great for large prints where you don't want any support material) and it can be finished easily if required (including with acetone vapour smoothing, which is something I recently experimented with and was very impressed by). So far there seems to be very little discussion on ABS, particularly as far as the UM2 is concerned. Printing in ABS, although similar in challenges to PLA and most other plastics, has it's own nuances. ABS also has differences between different manufacturers. It would be really useful if some of the more experienced users could share some of there successes and failures, setting and solutions with us and have a dedicated place to do it. Some of the problems we face are common to all materials, but many are material specific.Temperatures (nozzle and bed), material feed rates, layer adhesion, warping etc. are all unique to individual materials. So don't be shy about your wonderful ABS prints or ashamed of your not so wonderful ones. Lets see them, and try to build up a database of knowledge about how to print this sometimes tricky material. Thanks for reading!

Yer, that does look like a really nice solution. ABS or PLA?

Hi All, I'm waiting to receive my UM2 at the moment. I've been using an Afinia for 12 months and been delighted with it. I only print ABS models. Does anyone have any really nice examples of medium to large ABS prints done with the UM2?