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swordriff

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Posts posted by swordriff

  1. Without seeing a picture, i think you have a small or big gap between the Teflon and the brass heater block (inside the steel coupler with the radial holes), causing filament to escape and encapsulate the nozzle area..

    the conductivity of your filament is nowhere near causing trouble for the sensors at the low voltages we are speaking of here. maybe you pulled the cables while hot end cold... ?

     

  2. Hi totanoid!

    Very interesting comment you make here.

    The geometry is similar, there are adjustments of ca 50 microns.

    Ideally, the chamber should have an inverted cone to facilitate Atomic better, but

    that would offer a very tight envelope for the low temperature retraction, and also

    make the manufacture much more difficult.

    It is possible, of course to have a "straight" (grmf..) conic shape, but then the friction at pull-out

    time is even less than with the inline walls currently implemented inthe E3D nozzles. Theres is less friction at pull-out with conic shape because the material moves not only laterally but also away from the wall, leaving residue because of less friction.

    I have worked on the problem by applying a top secret, unspeakable, unmentionable, nondisclosure-able

    procedure (let me call it that; a procedure), and with the help from Anders on the geometry, to ensure that Atomic will

    work better!

    It is unclear when they will ship.

    3Dnerd: Thanks a lot! Every suggestion I get which I CHOOSE to implement, is rewarded with a 3dSolex 040mm Nozzlem when they arrive. You are on the list too!

    This is my first try at a webshop, and second for a web page, and need some input!

    I have gotten a lot of feedback; all correct! But I gave decided that it will never have a conform look, and we dont supply conform products.. so it will look a little "silly" maybe and nerdy.. who knows...

     

  3. Generally, "under extrusion" is not solved by increasing flow rate setting, except for very special filaments like for

    example Woodfill.

    More often "under extrusion" is a symptom of one or more of many other things like faulty hardware settings, to high speed, too low temperature, problem with feeder, problem with filament, problem with bowden tube, problem with hot end, problem with hot end couplings, nozzle, and more..

     

  4. jweaver: If you take the consequence of what Daid writes you can look at it like this:

    You have a certain diameter of filament, yes? Set, and use that setting.

    When you need to change the flow, then change the flow.

    Although you will probably be able to balance your suggestion out in your head, it will probably

    mess things up for you later on, in saving the different configurations or other things.

    If your filament is lets say 1.75. Why would you want to configure your machine to have

    a bigger gauge filament and then reduce flow to "compensate"?

    Hehe.. what would the flow be if you set your filament to 10CM? 0.37%.?

    No. Reco is to set the settings you know and can be sure of, then fiddle as much

    as possible (I certainly do) with everything else.

     

  5. Hi twistx!

    I think your sensor si fine.

    Here is your problem: Due to the 3dSolex "Olsson Block"s higher mass than

    the standard, the heating is a bit slower. When you lower the temp and the

    heater comes on again at the target, you get a low temp "overshoot" and it takes

    too much time for it to get up to your new target temp.

    This is a safety feature kicking in, prenventing you from burning down the house

    in case the heater spins out of control.

    These rules are more relaxed in the newest firmware; http://software.ultimaker.com/current/Cura_15.02.1.exe

    Download, install, connect your printer via USB and upoad the new firmware.

    This should take care of it!

  6. 3Dnerd:

    Just install The Olsson Block. When you re-attach the Hot end isolator - steel round nut, the one with the radial holes in it, make shure it is not screwed down so far that it touches the brass. You will be fine. This is not a problem.

    The possible problem is removing the temp sensor. It may break if it does not come off easily.

    "Our own design coming out soon Has

    025.040.080.

     

    Does that mean any of the E3D nozzle can be used with 3DSolex?

    What is the difference of your nozzles compared to E3D?

     

    You can use E3D nozzles, UMO nozzles, and other nozzles with an M6x1mm threading.

     

    The oncoming batch of 3dSolex "The Olsson Block" will ship with E3D nozzles, which are high quality.

     

    We are currently developing our own Nozzles, called "JETs", which will have a different geometry inside,

    a lower mass and save a little build height. The engineering samples have proven to provide a

    cleaner Atomic release.

     

    It is unclear when the JETs will be available.

     

    Atomic method: https://www.google.no/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=atomic%20method

     

    There are discussions on the forum about it too, and slight variations.

     

  7. Hi!

    --"-- means same as above.. the reply to question 2 is the same as to question 1.

    The isolator and nozzles are sold by the same company.. shortly.

    www.3dverkstan.se have an incredibly well developed customer service department,

    and one of the hottest contributors to this forum (iroberti) is perhaps most famous for his

    alternative filament extruder and printing advice..

    3dSolex will not carry 0.6 nozzles, you can buy that from http://shop.deltatower.ch/Extruder-und-Hotends:::7.html?MODsid=6hv44d4vmr14ect6t12a48s226

    -which I recommend for their top top quality.

    You could buy from E3D in UK also, they ship incredibly fast too!

    3dSolex will have 0.25-0.40-0.80 nozzles only.

    THIS IS A MUST STUDY, for beginners and everyone else..

    http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9250-a-few-tips-on-designing-for-3d-printing/

     

  8. Hi,

    I am also interested in this new heaterblock and new isolator.

    I read a few pages of this thread, but I still do not know where to order the new heater block, here my questions:

    (I live in Germany)

    1. Where to order heater block and isolator?

    2. Where to order the nozzles?

    3. What is the price of heater / isolator?

    4. Is there any (save) instruction available how to unmount the UM2 heater/isolator and mount the new heater / isolator?

    5. What happens with the warranty of my UM2 if I change heater / isolator?

    6. What about the settings in Cura for different nozzle sizes, what I have to consider?

    Thanks for any help...

     

    Hi 3Dnerd!

    Thank you for your elaborate questions!

     

    http://www.3dSolex.com

    USA, CANADA; Ships from Boston.

    Sweden, Denmark, Finland www.3dsolex.com

    After March 20th: http://www.3dverkstan.se/

    1. Everywhere else, http://www.3dSolex.com.

    2. Nozzles same place

    3. The price is 59€ for the 3dSolex Block (by Anders Olsson) incl 1 pcs high quality 0.40mm Nozzle

    The I2K isolator is in pre-production (acquisition of materials, final adjustment of geometry, and available shortly. it will cost 16€.

    It is on sale now!

    4. This fantastic video by Mohissa:

     

    5. You may break the temp sensor and then need a new one, strictly speaking not covered by the guarantee.

    6. When you print with very small or very big (0.25-0.80) nozzles, you must consider bed-gap, no need to have a huge gap with such a tiny nozzle as 025, and vis-a-versa,

    also you must consider that when printing with 0.80mm nozzle the hole is 4 times bigger in area than with 0.40. This affects print speed, extruder, need for temperature settings etc. Start slow (20mm/s) and work from there, increasing temp etc.

    Dont print PLA higher than 230.

    Good luck!

    You need UM2 standard tool plus it comes with 2 tools needed for installing except the Torque Wrench (Design Anders) which you print yourself. Use 040 nozzle when printing it, or the "resistor wings" will not come out correctly, or at all! Lesson; in Cura, set nozzle to 025, then 080, and look at the Wrench in layer view.. funnyy!

    Torque Wrench

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench

    Wrench

    With the small 025 nozzle you can print things like this:

    M Test post 5 Min process

    With a big enough nozzle, you could print this:

    Eiffel

    Edit: The I2K is available now

     

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