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swordriff

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Posts posted by swordriff

  1. Hi! 3dSolex Error Heater

    It seems you edit; MAYBE have a failing heater cartridge.

    Should not be a problem to keep it at 220C. Other users print a 295C.

    The Error appears when the heater can not increase the temperature at least 10C in 20 secs. This is a safety feature which helps preventing bruning down your house.

    The Error is more common in the following configuration / use cases:

    1) Olsson Block is 30% heavier than standard block, needs more heat.

    2) Old Merlin firmware has an even more strict error-temp control

    (fix: update firmware)

    3) The heaters are not all 25W, some are 17, some are 26.

    If you have a "weaker" one you get this fault more often

    4) If you print at 220C, then reduce temp to 210, the heater turns off and is not strong enough to get back up to 210 (the new temp) after it has "undershot" by 4-6 degrees; It goes from 220 to 204 before starting to recover to 210. If this process takes more time than "10C in 20Secs" (using newest FW), you get this error.

    (fix: Lower temp in small steps).

    5) If you print at 220, and your heater is weak-ish, and the fans are at zero, and they come full on, then also the error may appear.

    (fix: Manually set fans slowly Example: You are prtinting at 220. You look at temp indicator. when temp has gone down from 220 to 219 then you know the heater is ON again, this is the time to turn up the fan.

    You do not want to turn on the fan while the temperature is falling down to a new lower level. It makes it even harder to recover from the low point.

    @sylus: I am also curious to see the results of the JET RSS and CF-20

  2. I placed a order on 3dsolex for a Olsson block kit on April 18 2015, it did not ship yet, no status update whatsoever, and my emails are not being replied to. Does anybody know what's going on?

    Frank, your order shipped from Norway on the 19th you where notified the same day, on the 24th after you asked, and now too.  

    I understand you are keen to get it, and hopefully you will have it next week.

    Maybe the emails are in the spam folder?

    Please stay in touch.

    NO, In fact I am refunding you. Please pay me when you have it.

    Thank you.

  3. Paban! Ohm`s Law:

    Heater paste is a good suggestion, but will not help if the cartridges are a nice fit.

    The heaters vary from 17 to 26 Watt. You may have a weaker one.. Id say everything +- 10% is acceptable. You can Ohm it by disconnecting one lead from the pcb.,

    If it is 23 Ohm, it will be ca 25 watt according to Ohms law: Watt = U x (I = U/R) which translates to 25(W) = 24 (V) x (24V/23R).

    If your Heater is lets say 30 Ohm; it looks like this: 19.2 W( your heater effect) = 24V x 24V/30R)

  4. ah! i know it! Its a machine where you put something inside it, and then there are some moving parts, and then there is an electronic file coming out of it, which you can put inside your UM2 and it will replicate, or ultimake if you prefer that thing which you put inside the new machine, there is a name for that.. what is it?

  5. @deepshots:UM2 speed torture test but still the print quality is not what it used to be: More banding, more underextrusion (especially with thicker layers), not as accurate dimensions, etc.

    Not accurate dimensions; Ill bet you need to tighte the drive belts, especially the small ones in the back. Loose belts cause "over-moving, or "backlash", printing out of domension.

    Underextrusion; material in bowden tube from extuder drive, maladjusted drive or most likely buildup of carbon in hot end.

    Fix: Atomic pulls, use another colour. Do it until the it comes out perfectly clean and in shape.

    easy way of making atomic is inserting a piece of bowden tube maybe 10cm long into the head, then feed the atomic pull-filament through it. you can also use a tube 6mm outer dia, 3mm+ inner dia.

    • Like 1
  6. @gr5: "2) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 100 hours. It warps. It's the white part touching the heater block. Test it by removing it and passing filament though it by hand."

    Actually, when in use and on the border of collapsing, it will pass the "cold" filament through hole test, but when been hot for some time collapses inward on the filament, similar like an overdose heroin strangely bends the knees and has the poor subject sink into a low stance...

  7. If the developers could themselves not login, they would have fixed it quickly, no?

    Unfortunately, it is the good guys like Personal Drones and Dim3nsioneer who cannot login.

    Hmm.. I know for a fact, from a secret source (kidding!), that several UM insider people lost priceless research in the closure of the old forum.

    EDIT: I lost my messages, I know many others must have lost theirs, and yes, I admit I was warned, so no complaining on it! Thanks SandervG  and sorry.

  8. I MISS YOU!

    I'm finally getting to know my way around here, and it is not that bad, except of course I am forgetting all those who cannot log in and some are mailing me to ask help.. which I cannot give.. Personal Drones, anders, dim3nsioneer, meduza, mohissa, and more..

    I MISS YOU ALL , witty remarks, clever views, smart help, never acting "smartness" to us who are new and do not have the experience.

    The emotion and "missing" of the forum is getting weaker, I am loosing the force, the fine thing, sense of companionship and endless help has gone away.. the dialogues where the reply to the most simple questions is not understood and the helpers do not give up explaining until the receiver "gets it".

    Are we at RISK of forgetting the fantastic sense of accomplishment of our first successful print, of our fist failed print and how we fixed it and we "jauchzed" of glee happiness when we managed to iron the wrinkle out ourselves..

    How complete newcomers have the joy of helping someone else in their 5th post, explaining Atomic... .

    BUT: I see some Asian hieroglyphic entries here.. seems it is hard to block anyone from the forum, and easy to become a member..  How about charging 1€ membership.. ( withdrawn, no I did not say that; I did not have a relationship with that forum,,,hmm).

    What can I do to help?

    Anyone..

    Please?

    • Like 6
  9. DUAL: This is the simple way to keep the filament uncooked:

    Lets say you have a "main Print". This print needs filament from both nozzles.

    You add more work to the buildplate by making  1-4 "fake" prints next to the main print.

    We call these "wipe towers".

    It ensures, that ever now and then the nozzle (-s, if you dare) go print something unnecessary there, keeping the filament moving.

    But in DUAL printing there are other problems, so you just have to try!

    • Like 1
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