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cleven

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Posts posted by cleven

  1. I was testing some unstable metals that are designed to dissolve over a few days in water/oil or in a few minutes in acid. They are mostly used in oil well operations where you can drop a ball and flow fluid down with to set or shift something the ball hits against. Once done you can simply leave the ball/sphere for a few days or a few minutes depending on the fluid around and it will dissolve/reduce, or be brought back up to the surface with flow.

    I printed the black stand for the ball with a side vent, but it ended up too violent and it just blew off the stand and didn't really do its job. Eventually the amount of gas created just caused the ball to float. It did not effect the test, just made it difficult to film/document.

     

    I think I need a little bit of help.. what am I looking at right now? :p

     

  2. Good to hear!

    I have also been having great success, been using/testing it all week with different mixes (basically my mix is thickening/drying up i keep using it :D) . I am pleased so far :). It cleans up nice, and a light wet clean/smear over resets the entire thing without really needing to add much more if at all :)

     

    First test with NGEN and a 50/50 sugar mix. So far, so good. Great idea, Cleven!

     

  3. So far I have used ABS, Nylon and PLA, Also used some rubber type filament.

    You will have to play with the mixture, I did about 50/50 mix of sugar/hotwater (Hot water near boil, from water cooler).. Then I put it on a warmed bed applying by dipping a paper towel in the mix. For me it made about the same coverage consistency as a glue stick, possibly even thinner/smoother.

     

    @Cleven - great idea. Thanks for sharing!

    Have you tried any other materials? I'm experiencing adhesion problems with ColorFabb's NGEN and I will definitely try a splash of "Cleven's Potion" later on this week. ;-)

     

  4. These machined metal spheres will dissolve most liquids. Acid, water and even air will break these down.

    The test shown in the video was in a 15% concentrate of acid.

    I was hoping the sphere would stay seated in the printed stand for the filming, but the ball took off with the violent reaction. Eventually gas attached to the sides and floated the plastic.  You can even see the ball start to float from the creation of gas. The exothermic reaction created about 80C of heat.

     

  5. I usually use painters tape and or sometimes the glue / hairspray method to keep prints adhered to the bed.

    Well I didn't want to use the tape and I did not have any of the other two options.

    I do not know if this has been done before., but:

    I made a mix of sugar and water, approx 50/50 or near saturation where sugar crystals were completely dissolved. I then spread the sugary water with a paper towel over a warmed bed. The water evaporated leaving a nice washable very sticky surface. I printed some larger & smaller prints with ABS with good results.

    Update: I found that after I let the mix sit for a few days it made a thick syrup like consistancy. I then used this on the warmed bed. The Sugar then solidified evenly and smoothly on the bed.

    I thought it should be shared as it could help someone in a bind one day :)..

    Cheers,

    Cleven

    • Like 3
  6. Thanks

    If you want the nasa one to go both ways extrude a 1/4 square. Then print a square dowel that pushed through :).

    I made a simple one like this which worked. But I wanted my design to be able to change if the ratchet area broke. So I needed it open and a way I could lock it in. So I simply made two ratchet sections that move independent :).

    It was just a challenge for me to try to make a functioning mechanical tool back in August.

     

    I printed yours Cleven, that's a wonderful design. And since it can tighten and unloosen, it's better than NASA's wrench. I actually tested it the other day by taking off the terminals on my car battery and it worked great.

     

    Kudos sir!

     

  7. I haven't tested the nasa one. But on inspecting the design. It seems they designed it to slip (click) over at around 3 inch pounds. I think it should be called a static non adjustable torque wrench :).

    Where mine will not slip, as in most wrenches :) you push till she breaks ;).

    Note! I didn't print or test the nasa one. Please correct if I am wrong :)

  8. Well I've had the printer for about a year. I just moved to America. I shipped it. They destroyed it. But at least the Norwegian post honoured their insurance :)

     

    sorry for a bit of a plug, but my (unamed so as not to egt banned) packaging company i work for should have contacted ultimaker over a year ago about trying to win business and a redesign, probably our sales team being as super (un)efective as always!

     

    However Cleven, it is good to hear you got enough to buy some new pannels, it is likely a shame in the inevitable delay before you can get going :(

     

  9. I haven't done a torque test, but I was able to put the same amount of force as a similar sized wrench.

    I would need to test to destruction to know for sure how many NM / FTlbs, but again that comes to how well it is printed :)

    I am in New Brunswick right now, when I get back to Houston, if I find the time I can try to break one :D

     

    How strong is that ranch Cleven?

     

  10. I found once it starts it is hard to stop it. Basically for me the knurled feeder would grind the plastic slightly causing eventual under extrusion. I found I could only print around 35mm/s without issue.

    I machined a new ptfe part and that fixed it for me. Then I updated the feeder and it only got faster and better :).

  11. Test Print at 30mm/s. Looks like High friction in he Bowden tube if not the nozzle.

    I had similar issues and printing slower addressed this issue. After some mods and testing I was able to increase.

    1 Do you have Roberts extruded? Maybe something to try if you don't already have it as pm_dude said.

    2 inspect the Bowden tube for small dents or kinks or damage and the ends which can add friction.

    3 is there grooves in the filament worn from the feeder? This is usually a sign of high friction. :)

  12. I only did some initial testing. Mostly I don't use fine threads. I usually make a custom stub acme for what I need. I tend to just glue for my models and it gives a good representation. :)

     

    But it will work, yes? Or if applicable...re-think the construction of your part and split it so that where you need holes tapped just those parts are printed solid? When I bought my isolation miller to make my own pcbs (LPKF Protomat C60) I had to think through my layouts with a view to the process of the machine in mind.

     

    Alongside my UM2 that's my other very favourite machine ;-)

     

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