cleven
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3D Prints
Posts posted by cleven
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I think they are too tall. Or at least that is what I noticed when I have this issue. As a test try laying them on their sides or use a smaller part to see if it kicks in.
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I know it can be long distance. But simply call them. They answer the phone. I think the emails just get backed up and you end up in the pile.
Call in working hours. Office: +31 (0)345 712 017
Hopefully this works better
(Note I called when my printer was delayed last year they answered were able to give me a direct update right away)
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Started working on a lamp for my office desk.
Printed it only at 0.2 layer height, It is all I need, plus I didn't want to print for 24hrs...
It was printed with 0% infill for better lighting effect
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I'm in the Houston area of you need help with it still.
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Is it possible to set up an initial design approval? Similar to the forums on how you must have so many mags before you become unmoderated?
Will get rid of most spam
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Spoke too soon more being posted :(
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Gone now
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Someone posted a lot of spam as new designs on youmagine
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Gru replied above. I was referring to that.
Here is the forum on the flow test.
The file is here:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_id=809
Print at 230c read the forum post above for more info and what others have said. But this is just more a guideline. I never try to print at max rates. It just isn't worth it as too much can happen
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Is the printer running the newest firmware?
also for Grus sake if you could post a photo of the filament (with marks) to see if you have too little or too much pressure pushing on the filament. (The knurled area).
When I was having similar issues. I had to run about 35mm/s or less for it to work. Then I modified the feeder system and ptfe where I was able to increase the speeds.
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Epic
So many times have I done similar things lol :-)
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Flow is the volume of material moving at that print height. If you wanted to achieve the max flow possible of 10mm3/s then you would need to set print speed near 417mm/s which isn't really advised or possible. If you did the print test then put the value you were able to achieve it could be 7-10mm3/s. I was able to get 10 maybe you get less or the same.
Overall this Basically is giving you the flow rate so you know that your feeder can handle the volume you are asking it to push.
In the right corner you set yhe max volume your printer can handle. Then when you set your layer height and speed etc it gives you the volume flow so you are not pushing any limits. I would only set the value to like 7 where I was able to get a perfect print even though I was able to get 10.
Play around with it you'll see with a few tests. Read gru's notes it will help you too
Cleven I read the thread you linked and inserted the values I am using for my nozzle size, layer height, print speed and left the values you had inserted for max flow and SF. The calculator gave me a flow speed of .05.
What does that mean, what should I do with that information to improve my prints?
Also what is the 10mm3 test?
Nozzle size = .4
Layer height = .06
Print speed = 20
Flow =.05
Max flow = 10
SF = 1
Max speed = 417
Max layer = 1.26
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It works by determining how much material volume your printer can move. So you do the test to see how well your printer is. Then this will make sure you're not pushing the printer too hard, keeping it In a flow volume the feeder likes to move.
Thank you for the link, I will definitely give your calculator and that thread some attention. I am very new to 3d printing, so forgive my ignorance, but is flow rate a parameter we can control through cura or the ulticontroller? If not, is it preset by the firmware? -
I had issues once with vibrations of people walking by, couldn't really notice at the time but could see a difference.
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Well I think this is on each printer. A lot of issues with speed have to do with the flow rate. and each printer can be its own beast.
I've made something here http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7262-flow-rate-vs-speed-calc/
But what you are talking about is slightly more complex since you're getting into accuracy not flow restriction. But doing he print test and using those flow rates seems to work overall as a guide.
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Well as soon as you get anything over 10kg (20lbs) or any level that is uncomfortable for the post person they literally beat the shit out of your package :(. Had it happen before with motorcycle stuff. The woman threw it off the truck in front of me and was oblivious when I confronted her about it.
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It is insured, but it is a pain in the ass to try and get anything. Trust me I have tried before. I submitted to the post where I shipped in norway. I should get an answer tomorrow. Eitherway I was able to get it going again... Just had to fix a lot of stuff, Bend a lot of metal...
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I shipped my printer using Posten in Norway for my move to Houston. I guess it switched over to USPS who completely destroyed the package. I figured it would be easier... Luckily I packed it with the original packaging as it was shipped to me, if I had not I am sure I would have gotten a pile of parts.. America..... what happened to taking care of peoples stuff in the post?
Not only was the box nearly destroyed there was sustained damage to much of the printer. someone even used the box as a cutting surface when they were using a razor... WTF. There is a sticker on the box that says this way up, but when it was delivered they actually set it upside down at the door... I also had to reprint the feeder system as it was completely shattered, not it is in blue
Basically the frame is bent and there was damage almost everywhere, I was able to get it back as much as I could to work, but I am not sure of any other issues until I get tested properly :(
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Moving on into Houston Texas for a new startup. (oil stuff)
Curious as to how if any ultimakers made into the Houston area.
If any perhaps a meetup in the near future
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There are some vendors in Sweden for some rare plastics. I think that is where I get mine. Though could be in Norge instead, last time I ordered some Torlon stock and some high temp plastic for injection. I haven't had to look in a while. If I can remember I'll check with my purchasing group tomorrow.
That stuff is highly interesting! I wish I had the skills to find this kind of material.I have been spending quite some time looking for plastics but my google skills are apparently not good enough :sad:
The Celazole Pbi appears to be [/size]exactly the kind of material you would like for the thermal insulator.
The non-stick properties might even mean you can get away with the whole insulator made in this material even for printing PLA.
As for the Vespel, I was reading a bit about it an it worries me a bit is that it basically is a polyimide, just as Kapton, and ABS is well known to stick very well to kapton. But maybe Vespel is different somehow (?).
Anyway, I am seriously considering ordering a piece of Celazole Pbi now.. :smile:[/size]
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Ive done the same, was more of a test, worked ok
I made a 2.9mm metal tube and heated the tube connected to a solder-iron. pushed them together worked rather well pulled it out. Voila.I make them stick together with a soldering iron and cut of the excess material at the soldering point. this way you can also do some multicolored prints if you calculate how much meters of filament each part of a specific color needs.Thinking of it , I might try to mix PLA and ABS this way.
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Tip.
since the ptfe is rather soft, use the tail stock to centre. Then cut the profile with the tailstock centering. Leaving a slight small section at the end near the tail-stock. Then load in an end mill (10mm or so) and cut the end down to size, load another end mill (6mm or so) to cut the room for the tube, Then drill out the center for the filament. I added a profile chamfer to the entrance which for me imrpoved operation. I then cut it a bit longer and placed it in an end mill where I trimmed it to length.
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Hold the phone people!, all this hubbub! Just simply make one in a lathe yourself. Which obviously everyone should own
, Problem solved Well technically it would be nice if they were a bit longer then you could trim down the end more and at least get a few uses out of them, since the wear is at the bottom
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I found that the peek and ptfe for me was virtually the same. I only went with ptfe because I had some bar stock of it. Made it much easier to make. It is also easier to cut than peek
. Peek did give some issues when removing the filament but that was all I noticed.
I've been rereading this thread with a view to turning my own spacer at the weekend. What was the verdict re PEEK vs PTFE?Cleven talked about PEEK to begin with and then I think switched to PTFE? Daid asserted that one PEEK test jammed within an hour, but didn't suggest why that should be the norm.
I have both PEEK and PTFE rod here so I'm somewhat neutral, though PEEK seems harder and easier to machine.
Comments?
careful when shipping :(
in Coffee corner
Posted
You should see the other box that only had filament in it...
Went and filed a report. I had to fill out their paperwork that stated usps employees only on the top because the lady said she wasn't going to do it. Anyway, I filled it out listed all the damage they signed and stamped it. So see what happens. In the end I get f'd anyway. But if I get something at all it will be worth it.