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joatrash

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  1. The same thing happened to me once with TW. Luckily, I was nearby and could stop it.
  2. I haven't really studied all the settings, but I know that in the material settings menu, there are 4-5 different temps to set. Maybe it thinks you are printing ABS or something?
  3. Tinker has settings for different nozzles and things that are automatically detected through info in the gcode file. Go into the materials settings and make sure the temp is set to 210 on the material+nozzle you are using. (If it's an old gcode file, the default nozzle is automatically set to 0.4 for heat purposes)
  4. So material flow is controlled by the slicer calculations? (I mean, it needs to move more material with a 0.6 than with 0.4 nozzle.)
  5. Yes, it seems that the line is missing from Cura_steamengine 13.12. I'll add the line when I get a chance and see. (I usually name my files accordingly... was mainly worried about the print.) But I'm guessing the information for printing with the nozzle must be contained somewhere, or I'd have had a lot of underextrusion this last year since switching to the Olsson block! (I got an OB long before doing the full UM2+ upgrade.) So far the print seems to be working fine. Thanks for the response! : ) I assume that the old versions of CuraEngine do not provide any information about the nozzle size in the header of the gcode file. The UM2+ firmware will use the material temperature for the 0.4mm nozzle as a default in those cases. This is what it looks like with the current version of Cura. If in doubt you can add the missing line and see, if it makes a difference. ; ;FLAVOR:UltiGCode ;TIME:4875 ;MATERIAL:5528 ;MATERIAL2:0 ;NOZZLE_DIAMETER:0.4 ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.0.3
  6. Hello all! So, after upgrading my UM2 to a PLUS, I needed to try this out since I wanted to keep using PID bed heating since my prints were horrible as soon as I went past Cura 14.05. However, it seems to be misreporting which nozzle my gcode files are set for. (Didn't find anything about this upon a search, unless I completely missed it?) Files that were exported (from Cura 14.01 or .05... OLD I know... but it has always worked) with a 0.6 nozzle setting show "nozzle 0.4" in the Tinker display. Is this just a display bug? I'm going to run a print now ans see what happens. Cheers! //Joe
  7. I've been getting a lot of horizontal banding lately as well and I can't find the cause. It's driving me crazy. It MUST be hardware related because I'm using the same gcodes and firmware as I always have and i was getting perfect prints before. At this time I've checked just about everything I can check, from what I reckon. My last remaining things are: Faulty feeder giving uneven amounts of plastic Worn nozzle (doesn't really look worn though) Loose belts (hard to know how tight is enough... I can move them easily up and down but they're not "floppy". Tried attaching a belt tightener but the belts are too tight to get it on there so I might have to make a custom one.) Z-motor or axis problem. I DO hear an unveven "grinding sound" when I manually press the build plate DOWN.. sounds a little like in the video you linked above... like there is sand in the mechanism. But I don't really hear any grinding when I LIFT the bed manually... only when I push it down. I wonder... when I first got my UM2, the threaded Z-axis nut was faulty, causing the bed to drop several mm in intervals. This also placed a bit of sideways pressure on the z-screw. Maybe that extra pressure has caused the motor to break down prematurely?
  8. OK, can you tell me what file(s) besides "curaengine.exe" that needs access? Can't seem to find the right one in my block list... Thanks!
  9. Aha... that may be it then. I routinely block program access to the internet, sometimes without even thinking about it. The only things I allow access to are things that actually MUST have access (like browsers). Why would Cura need firewall access just to calculate g-code?
  10. Also, I don't know if this is relevant or not, but if I load Gcode generated by 14.01 it doesn't display properly...
  11. Bumping solved, thanks. (Never had the "singles" active before.) But it still refuses to slice... the button is simply greyed out. If I switch to 0.2mm the button is no longer greyed out but it still doesn't slice... just says 0 hours. The program doesn't lock up or anything...
  12. Hey guys, Been using 140.01 since I bought my machine back in Feb. Just installed 14.03 but it refuses to slice. Same thing with 14.05RC4. I can load the model but then nothing. Have tried different models. 14.01 continues to work fine but I'd like to experiment with the increased options in the newer verions. Also... it seems that if I load different models Cura now "pushes them out of the way" and does not allow separate models to be close to one another on the platform! 14.01 did this too, but not nearly as much.
  13. Hey guys, I've recently begun experiencing major slipping on my UM2 and it's driving me nuts. After reading through all this here, no setting I make helps fix it. I've getting maybe 1/6 slip per turn with gross underextrusion as a result. Print speed: 40-45 Layer height: 0.1 Walls 0.8 Density 15-20% bed temp: 55 Extruder Temp: tried 210-255 (hotter seems a liiiiiiittle better but not much) More or less flow doesn't make a difference. Have tried moving the filament around to make sure there is no tension. It looks like the filament sometimes twists a little in the bowden when the slip occurs. Turning the friction screw does nothing. I am using Faberdashery PLA. I've gotten the best results using their robot silver since I got the printer, switched to black for a couple prints and the problem got worse. (Seems the metallic filaments are always the best in my printer...). Any ideas?
  14. It seems quite a few of us are having this problem right now! The gear/pulleys seem to be made out of aluminum. I would think there is a small chance that tightening too much will damage the threads- the inset hex/allen head screw is made of hardened steel, after all. However, it'll probably be difficult to apply enough force to damage them with the thin hex wrench provided.
  15. Well, I removed the two screws holding the cover and looked under it. There's a brass washer/ring held in place by four bolts to the build plate. I assume that the brass ring is threaded inside so that the screw can move it. This brass piece was NOT loose, so there is either a washer or something underneath that is faulty or the brass piece itself was machined defective. There's not much more I can do until UM get back to me with instructions. Removing two screws to look under the cover is one thing but I'm not going to start disassembling the build plate without the go-ahead from UM. (I can't fix anything until I get replacement parts anyway.) Sigh... I'm in full production of a prop kit at the moment too so I can't really afford to be without the printer for long.
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