Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

joatrash

Member
  • Content Count

    57
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral
  1. Haha, well looking at the screenshot... the red line seems to indicate a moment of 9000mm per minute! But I did more digging. It looks like the problem might be hardware-related on my end. I suspect a faulty SD-card reader. (Or if it's not, then Windows is indexing the SD card even though it's not supposed to be.) Looks like errors start showing up in files when the SD card is removed. Information in the files goes missing, like here: Broken copy on the left, error-free copy on the right. Apologies for thinking it was a Tinker issue. ONE puzzling thing though... the UM firmware se
  2. OK... more testing. Look at this: I imported the gcode files into Simplify3d just to look at them. It looks like Cura has inserted random super-fast print head movements because the red lines are exactly where the print failed. UMs original firmware seems to be able to handle the files anyway, but Tinker stops printing when it reaches those lines every time. Any thoughts as to what could be going on?
  3. Ok... I've spent a couple days experimenting now and there's something going on with Tinker on a specific 3d model I am trying to print. If I go back to the original (latest) UM2+ firmware it prints fine. I now tried slicing with cura 2.5, 4.1 and 4.7 and the results are similar- the print just stops after a while as if it were finished. The same model, sliced waaaaaaay back with an early cura (2.1 I think) still prints. The weird thing is that I went back and redid the model with different topology, made it 100% error free, manifold and watertight but the result is the same. If IS a rather
  4. Is anyone having troubles with this firmware and Cura 4.7? All of a sudden, files I'm slicing will stop printing after a couple hours as if they are finished. Had two cut out after around 2 hours and one just now after about 8 hours. No error message... the print just stops and it says "print completed" on the screen. I've verified that the gcode file is not truncted and the SD card has no errors. I can still print old gcodes just fine.
  5. I don't know if this is what was meant, but every time a print is completed, the printer has to be powered off, then on again before a new print is started. If not, when you start a new print, as the printer runs thought the prep-cycle where it "resets" the print head location and raises the bed, the print head stop switch does not register when the head reaches the back, and the motor keeps going, making the belt "jump" over gears and the entire machine shakes until you turn it off. (I personally don't have a film clip of it and I'm a little hesitant to make one for fear of causing any damage
  6. The same thing happened to me once with TW. Luckily, I was nearby and could stop it.
  7. I haven't really studied all the settings, but I know that in the material settings menu, there are 4-5 different temps to set. Maybe it thinks you are printing ABS or something?
  8. Tinker has settings for different nozzles and things that are automatically detected through info in the gcode file. Go into the materials settings and make sure the temp is set to 210 on the material+nozzle you are using. (If it's an old gcode file, the default nozzle is automatically set to 0.4 for heat purposes)
  9. So material flow is controlled by the slicer calculations? (I mean, it needs to move more material with a 0.6 than with 0.4 nozzle.)
  10. Yes, it seems that the line is missing from Cura_steamengine 13.12. I'll add the line when I get a chance and see. (I usually name my files accordingly... was mainly worried about the print.) But I'm guessing the information for printing with the nozzle must be contained somewhere, or I'd have had a lot of underextrusion this last year since switching to the Olsson block! (I got an OB long before doing the full UM2+ upgrade.) So far the print seems to be working fine. Thanks for the response! : ) I assume that the old versions of CuraEngine do not provide any information about the n
  11. Hello all! So, after upgrading my UM2 to a PLUS, I needed to try this out since I wanted to keep using PID bed heating since my prints were horrible as soon as I went past Cura 14.05. However, it seems to be misreporting which nozzle my gcode files are set for. (Didn't find anything about this upon a search, unless I completely missed it?) Files that were exported (from Cura 14.01 or .05... OLD I know... but it has always worked) with a 0.6 nozzle setting show "nozzle 0.4" in the Tinker display. Is this just a display bug? I'm going to run a print now ans see what happens. Cheers! //
  12. Superglue is great in many respects but it does not handle vibrations or physical shocks well. And while it is super-strong in vertical stress situations (lifting a car) it has very poor abilities to handle shear stress (sideways) or shocks. You can't really get a better bond than actually fusing the parts together. (I'm not knocking your preferred method of assembly, just pointing out the inherit weakness in the material. I use superglue for lots of things too.) Yes, the acrylic glue can also be used to smooth out things. I successfully made a paste for filling gaps by mixing the glue (w
  13. I'll add to this so that I've at least contributed something in my first week of printing with the UM2 instead of only asking questions. I have found that the same type of glue used for PLEXIGLASS (acrylic) works on PLA. It dissolves the PLA, the same may regular modeling glue does with polystyrene kits, thereby essentially fusing the parts together. Cyano and epoxy are great, but you can't really beat "welding" together parts for a trong bond.
×
×
  • Create New...