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Everything posted by joatrash

  1. Haha, well looking at the screenshot... the red line seems to indicate a moment of 9000mm per minute! But I did more digging. It looks like the problem might be hardware-related on my end. I suspect a faulty SD-card reader. (Or if it's not, then Windows is indexing the SD card even though it's not supposed to be.) Looks like errors start showing up in files when the SD card is removed. Information in the files goes missing, like here: Broken copy on the left, error-free copy on the right. Apologies for thinking it was a Tinker issue. ONE puzzling thing though... the UM firmware se
  2. OK... more testing. Look at this: I imported the gcode files into Simplify3d just to look at them. It looks like Cura has inserted random super-fast print head movements because the red lines are exactly where the print failed. UMs original firmware seems to be able to handle the files anyway, but Tinker stops printing when it reaches those lines every time. Any thoughts as to what could be going on?
  3. Ok... I've spent a couple days experimenting now and there's something going on with Tinker on a specific 3d model I am trying to print. If I go back to the original (latest) UM2+ firmware it prints fine. I now tried slicing with cura 2.5, 4.1 and 4.7 and the results are similar- the print just stops after a while as if it were finished. The same model, sliced waaaaaaay back with an early cura (2.1 I think) still prints. The weird thing is that I went back and redid the model with different topology, made it 100% error free, manifold and watertight but the result is the same. If IS a rather
  4. Is anyone having troubles with this firmware and Cura 4.7? All of a sudden, files I'm slicing will stop printing after a couple hours as if they are finished. Had two cut out after around 2 hours and one just now after about 8 hours. No error message... the print just stops and it says "print completed" on the screen. I've verified that the gcode file is not truncted and the SD card has no errors. I can still print old gcodes just fine.
  5. I don't know if this is what was meant, but every time a print is completed, the printer has to be powered off, then on again before a new print is started. If not, when you start a new print, as the printer runs thought the prep-cycle where it "resets" the print head location and raises the bed, the print head stop switch does not register when the head reaches the back, and the motor keeps going, making the belt "jump" over gears and the entire machine shakes until you turn it off. (I personally don't have a film clip of it and I'm a little hesitant to make one for fear of causing any damage
  6. The same thing happened to me once with TW. Luckily, I was nearby and could stop it.
  7. I haven't really studied all the settings, but I know that in the material settings menu, there are 4-5 different temps to set. Maybe it thinks you are printing ABS or something?
  8. Tinker has settings for different nozzles and things that are automatically detected through info in the gcode file. Go into the materials settings and make sure the temp is set to 210 on the material+nozzle you are using. (If it's an old gcode file, the default nozzle is automatically set to 0.4 for heat purposes)
  9. So material flow is controlled by the slicer calculations? (I mean, it needs to move more material with a 0.6 than with 0.4 nozzle.)
  10. Yes, it seems that the line is missing from Cura_steamengine 13.12. I'll add the line when I get a chance and see. (I usually name my files accordingly... was mainly worried about the print.) But I'm guessing the information for printing with the nozzle must be contained somewhere, or I'd have had a lot of underextrusion this last year since switching to the Olsson block! (I got an OB long before doing the full UM2+ upgrade.) So far the print seems to be working fine. Thanks for the response! : ) I assume that the old versions of CuraEngine do not provide any information about the n
  11. Hello all! So, after upgrading my UM2 to a PLUS, I needed to try this out since I wanted to keep using PID bed heating since my prints were horrible as soon as I went past Cura 14.05. However, it seems to be misreporting which nozzle my gcode files are set for. (Didn't find anything about this upon a search, unless I completely missed it?) Files that were exported (from Cura 14.01 or .05... OLD I know... but it has always worked) with a 0.6 nozzle setting show "nozzle 0.4" in the Tinker display. Is this just a display bug? I'm going to run a print now ans see what happens. Cheers! //
  12. I've been getting a lot of horizontal banding lately as well and I can't find the cause. It's driving me crazy. It MUST be hardware related because I'm using the same gcodes and firmware as I always have and i was getting perfect prints before. At this time I've checked just about everything I can check, from what I reckon. My last remaining things are: Faulty feeder giving uneven amounts of plastic Worn nozzle (doesn't really look worn though) Loose belts (hard to know how tight is enough... I can move them easily up and down but they're not "floppy". Tried attaching a belt tightener b
  13. OK, can you tell me what file(s) besides "curaengine.exe" that needs access? Can't seem to find the right one in my block list... Thanks!
  14. Aha... that may be it then. I routinely block program access to the internet, sometimes without even thinking about it. The only things I allow access to are things that actually MUST have access (like browsers). Why would Cura need firewall access just to calculate g-code?
  15. Also, I don't know if this is relevant or not, but if I load Gcode generated by 14.01 it doesn't display properly...
  16. Bumping solved, thanks. (Never had the "singles" active before.) But it still refuses to slice... the button is simply greyed out. If I switch to 0.2mm the button is no longer greyed out but it still doesn't slice... just says 0 hours. The program doesn't lock up or anything...
  17. Hey guys, Been using 140.01 since I bought my machine back in Feb. Just installed 14.03 but it refuses to slice. Same thing with 14.05RC4. I can load the model but then nothing. Have tried different models. 14.01 continues to work fine but I'd like to experiment with the increased options in the newer verions. Also... it seems that if I load different models Cura now "pushes them out of the way" and does not allow separate models to be close to one another on the platform! 14.01 did this too, but not nearly as much.
  18. Hey guys, I've recently begun experiencing major slipping on my UM2 and it's driving me nuts. After reading through all this here, no setting I make helps fix it. I've getting maybe 1/6 slip per turn with gross underextrusion as a result. Print speed: 40-45 Layer height: 0.1 Walls 0.8 Density 15-20% bed temp: 55 Extruder Temp: tried 210-255 (hotter seems a liiiiiiittle better but not much) More or less flow doesn't make a difference. Have tried moving the filament around to make sure there is no tension. It looks like the filament sometimes twists a little in the bowden when the slip o
  19. It seems quite a few of us are having this problem right now! The gear/pulleys seem to be made out of aluminum. I would think there is a small chance that tightening too much will damage the threads- the inset hex/allen head screw is made of hardened steel, after all. However, it'll probably be difficult to apply enough force to damage them with the thin hex wrench provided.
  20. Well, I removed the two screws holding the cover and looked under it. There's a brass washer/ring held in place by four bolts to the build plate. I assume that the brass ring is threaded inside so that the screw can move it. This brass piece was NOT loose, so there is either a washer or something underneath that is faulty or the brass piece itself was machined defective. There's not much more I can do until UM get back to me with instructions. Removing two screws to look under the cover is one thing but I'm not going to start disassembling the build plate without the go-ahead from UM. (I can't
  21. Yeah, the Z-screw is lubricated enough- something inside is probably not screwed down correctly or has vibrated loose. I can easily move the plate up and down. Here's a video of it:
  22. Yet another discovery. My build plate is LOOSE. I can pull it up or down maybe 2-3mm. The screw doesn't seem to move, so there is something loose inside where the plate attaches to the screw... Would the coupler be inside the housing just behind the buildplate?
  23. My headache grows. I just got home and did a test. First, is the ultimaker 2 supposed to make a NOISE when the build plate is lowered during printing? Whenever my buildplate is lowered as part of a print, I hear a short "grinding" noise for a fraction of a second. Kind of like a "Ksssht". I felt the plate screw with my finger as this happened and I felt it turn slightly so I know that it occurs when the plate is lowered. Second, I watched the print going and it looks like at one point, the build plate fails to lower for maybe a level or so, causing the filament to "smush" as it is printed.
  24. Well, the hardware thing is the only thing I can come up with unless there is something wrong with the software. Wil measuring with a caliper be reliable though? I mean, the build plate is a bit "springy"- so much so that measuring 100 microns can be difficult. Here are some more photos. I also noticed that the "split" seems to be preceded by a couple layers not aligning properly (see the red arrows). It's not in the EXACT same spot each time, but pretty close... and the differences COULD be due to the position of the bed leveling screws in comparison to the screw that holds/moves the platfo
  25. I am bringing this thread back, because I am seeing this problem more and more. After printing about 1cm up (more o less) the print starts failing and "skips" a few layers and starts pulling strands of filament all over the place, only to resume again as if nothing was wrong. I'm having difficulty finding any consistent pattern besides the height, which makes me wonder if there is a hardware error or damage to the mechanisms that maybe stops the print bed from moving properly. It seems to ALWAYS happen at the same height. Some things I can more or less conclude: - bed or print head temp has
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