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Everything posted by joatrash

  1. The same thing happened to me once with TW. Luckily, I was nearby and could stop it.
  2. I haven't really studied all the settings, but I know that in the material settings menu, there are 4-5 different temps to set. Maybe it thinks you are printing ABS or something?
  3. Tinker has settings for different nozzles and things that are automatically detected through info in the gcode file. Go into the materials settings and make sure the temp is set to 210 on the material+nozzle you are using. (If it's an old gcode file, the default nozzle is automatically set to 0.4 for heat purposes)
  4. So material flow is controlled by the slicer calculations? (I mean, it needs to move more material with a 0.6 than with 0.4 nozzle.)
  5. Yes, it seems that the line is missing from Cura_steamengine 13.12. I'll add the line when I get a chance and see. (I usually name my files accordingly... was mainly worried about the print.) But I'm guessing the information for printing with the nozzle must be contained somewhere, or I'd have had a lot of underextrusion this last year since switching to the Olsson block! (I got an OB long before doing the full UM2+ upgrade.) So far the print seems to be working fine. Thanks for the response! : ) I assume that the old versions of CuraEngine do not provide any information about the nozzle size in the header of the gcode file. The UM2+ firmware will use the material temperature for the 0.4mm nozzle as a default in those cases. This is what it looks like with the current version of Cura. If in doubt you can add the missing line and see, if it makes a difference. ; ;FLAVOR:UltiGCode ;TIME:4875 ;MATERIAL:5528 ;MATERIAL2:0 ;NOZZLE_DIAMETER:0.4 ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.0.3
  6. Hello all! So, after upgrading my UM2 to a PLUS, I needed to try this out since I wanted to keep using PID bed heating since my prints were horrible as soon as I went past Cura 14.05. However, it seems to be misreporting which nozzle my gcode files are set for. (Didn't find anything about this upon a search, unless I completely missed it?) Files that were exported (from Cura 14.01 or .05... OLD I know... but it has always worked) with a 0.6 nozzle setting show "nozzle 0.4" in the Tinker display. Is this just a display bug? I'm going to run a print now ans see what happens. Cheers! //Joe
  7. I've been getting a lot of horizontal banding lately as well and I can't find the cause. It's driving me crazy. It MUST be hardware related because I'm using the same gcodes and firmware as I always have and i was getting perfect prints before. At this time I've checked just about everything I can check, from what I reckon. My last remaining things are: Faulty feeder giving uneven amounts of plastic Worn nozzle (doesn't really look worn though) Loose belts (hard to know how tight is enough... I can move them easily up and down but they're not "floppy". Tried attaching a belt tightener but the belts are too tight to get it on there so I might have to make a custom one.) Z-motor or axis problem. I DO hear an unveven "grinding sound" when I manually press the build plate DOWN.. sounds a little like in the video you linked above... like there is sand in the mechanism. But I don't really hear any grinding when I LIFT the bed manually... only when I push it down. I wonder... when I first got my UM2, the threaded Z-axis nut was faulty, causing the bed to drop several mm in intervals. This also placed a bit of sideways pressure on the z-screw. Maybe that extra pressure has caused the motor to break down prematurely?
  8. OK, can you tell me what file(s) besides "curaengine.exe" that needs access? Can't seem to find the right one in my block list... Thanks!
  9. Aha... that may be it then. I routinely block program access to the internet, sometimes without even thinking about it. The only things I allow access to are things that actually MUST have access (like browsers). Why would Cura need firewall access just to calculate g-code?
  10. Also, I don't know if this is relevant or not, but if I load Gcode generated by 14.01 it doesn't display properly...
  11. Bumping solved, thanks. (Never had the "singles" active before.) But it still refuses to slice... the button is simply greyed out. If I switch to 0.2mm the button is no longer greyed out but it still doesn't slice... just says 0 hours. The program doesn't lock up or anything...
  12. Hey guys, Been using 140.01 since I bought my machine back in Feb. Just installed 14.03 but it refuses to slice. Same thing with 14.05RC4. I can load the model but then nothing. Have tried different models. 14.01 continues to work fine but I'd like to experiment with the increased options in the newer verions. Also... it seems that if I load different models Cura now "pushes them out of the way" and does not allow separate models to be close to one another on the platform! 14.01 did this too, but not nearly as much.
  13. Hey guys, I've recently begun experiencing major slipping on my UM2 and it's driving me nuts. After reading through all this here, no setting I make helps fix it. I've getting maybe 1/6 slip per turn with gross underextrusion as a result. Print speed: 40-45 Layer height: 0.1 Walls 0.8 Density 15-20% bed temp: 55 Extruder Temp: tried 210-255 (hotter seems a liiiiiiittle better but not much) More or less flow doesn't make a difference. Have tried moving the filament around to make sure there is no tension. It looks like the filament sometimes twists a little in the bowden when the slip occurs. Turning the friction screw does nothing. I am using Faberdashery PLA. I've gotten the best results using their robot silver since I got the printer, switched to black for a couple prints and the problem got worse. (Seems the metallic filaments are always the best in my printer...). Any ideas?
  14. It seems quite a few of us are having this problem right now! The gear/pulleys seem to be made out of aluminum. I would think there is a small chance that tightening too much will damage the threads- the inset hex/allen head screw is made of hardened steel, after all. However, it'll probably be difficult to apply enough force to damage them with the thin hex wrench provided.
  15. Well, I removed the two screws holding the cover and looked under it. There's a brass washer/ring held in place by four bolts to the build plate. I assume that the brass ring is threaded inside so that the screw can move it. This brass piece was NOT loose, so there is either a washer or something underneath that is faulty or the brass piece itself was machined defective. There's not much more I can do until UM get back to me with instructions. Removing two screws to look under the cover is one thing but I'm not going to start disassembling the build plate without the go-ahead from UM. (I can't fix anything until I get replacement parts anyway.) Sigh... I'm in full production of a prop kit at the moment too so I can't really afford to be without the printer for long.
  16. Yeah, the Z-screw is lubricated enough- something inside is probably not screwed down correctly or has vibrated loose. I can easily move the plate up and down. Here's a video of it:
  17. Yet another discovery. My build plate is LOOSE. I can pull it up or down maybe 2-3mm. The screw doesn't seem to move, so there is something loose inside where the plate attaches to the screw... Would the coupler be inside the housing just behind the buildplate?
  18. My headache grows. I just got home and did a test. First, is the ultimaker 2 supposed to make a NOISE when the build plate is lowered during printing? Whenever my buildplate is lowered as part of a print, I hear a short "grinding" noise for a fraction of a second. Kind of like a "Ksssht". I felt the plate screw with my finger as this happened and I felt it turn slightly so I know that it occurs when the plate is lowered. Second, I watched the print going and it looks like at one point, the build plate fails to lower for maybe a level or so, causing the filament to "smush" as it is printed. This creates the misaligned layer that shows in the prints. Third, a few mm later I watched as the build plate DROPPED 1-2mm in one go with a small "kadunk"! The print immediately failed as the new layer had no old layer to grab onto and I stopped the machine. So, the question is- what is causing this? A loose gear or something somewhere? Any ideas? //Joe
  19. Well, the hardware thing is the only thing I can come up with unless there is something wrong with the software. Wil measuring with a caliper be reliable though? I mean, the build plate is a bit "springy"- so much so that measuring 100 microns can be difficult. Here are some more photos. I also noticed that the "split" seems to be preceded by a couple layers not aligning properly (see the red arrows). It's not in the EXACT same spot each time, but pretty close... and the differences COULD be due to the position of the bed leveling screws in comparison to the screw that holds/moves the platform. I'm going to send this to UM support as well. Note: I did some cleanup on the blue parts... they looked just like the grey one at first with strands of plastic everywhere.
  20. I am bringing this thread back, because I am seeing this problem more and more. After printing about 1cm up (more o less) the print starts failing and "skips" a few layers and starts pulling strands of filament all over the place, only to resume again as if nothing was wrong. I'm having difficulty finding any consistent pattern besides the height, which makes me wonder if there is a hardware error or damage to the mechanisms that maybe stops the print bed from moving properly. It seems to ALWAYS happen at the same height. Some things I can more or less conclude: - bed or print head temp has little effect (tried different settings) - material feed possibly catching on something does NOT appear to be the issue because I've tried many different variants and I know that at least one of them is guaranteed NOT to "catch" anywhere. If there's an issue it could be within the feeder... but why would it be so consistent? -bed has been leveled very carefully. -doesn't matter if I print ONE big item, one smaller item or lots of items... it happens anyway. -it doesn't ALWAYS happen... but maybe 20-25% of the time. I'm out of material at the moment but when I get new stuff I will TRY to catch it "in the act".
  21. I think the wost example was with a wide, flat model that was only about 10-15mm high. Is the fan ramping a setting in Curas expert panel?
  22. That goes directly against what I seem to be observing. HIGH models (with more air) are less affected by it.
  23. Yes, but it's still curious as to why it happens on some prints and nother others that are similar in shape, and printed with identical settings. If it were only down to thickness of the layer, it would probably be more consistent across all models. I've gotten perfect results with some prints and horrible results with others and the only difference I've been able to come up with is the model height (top layers being printed too close to the print bed causing them to stay soft, thus reacting to expanding air inside the print). Thickening the top layer that much doesn't sound like it would help that much if that's the case. There may also be some correlation to surface area (wide spaces without outer walls that give extra support) but that does not seem to be consistent either.
  24. I'm getting a lot of prints where there are raised bumps in the top layer. These bumps occur exactly and evenly where there is no infill (i.e. hollow underneath). It almost looks like expanding air inside the print is causing the plastic to bulge upwards. They also only seem to occur on perfectly flat (horizontal) layers. Sometimes the bumps are so bad that there are small pinsized holes in the middle. It seems like it MAY be more common on low prints (prints that seal up closer to the print bed), which leads me to suspect a print bed heat issue (PLA not cooling fast enough) but it is not consistent enough to confirm. Changing the infill amount doesn't seem to matter much (usually 10-30%) besides making the bulges bigger or smaller. It also doesn't appear to make any difference how many models are printing (i.e. how long layers have to cool until the next pass). Using a 65 print bed and 220 nozzle temperature. Should I try turning down the bed temp?
  25. Superglue is great in many respects but it does not handle vibrations or physical shocks well. And while it is super-strong in vetical stress situations (lifting a car) it has very poor abilities to handle shear stress (sideways). You can't really get a better bond than actually fusing the parts together. (I'm not knocking your preferred method of assembly, just pointing out the inherit weakness in the material. I use superglue for lots of things too.) Yes, the acrylic glue can also be used to smooth out things. I successfully made a paste for filling gaps by mixing the glue (which is rather thin) with shredded PLA, just like you would with ABS and acetone. (Small warning though- you do need fairly good ventilation because it smells just as strongly as contact cement.)
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