dubtec

Thanks for your help. I think it was a combination of things. I reprinted adjustable tensioner and follow video and got all the belts to sound the same. I also tightened the 6short belts by levering the motors down. I've replaced my strange drive bolt with the new v3.. wow now I can print fast .. The bolt installed doesn't look like it was an original ultimaker.. what do you thinkhttp://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/3685-20140219-224048/

Ok will look at this tonight.. This is a used ultimaker I bought from eBay. The X y motors are really hot. Too hot to touch. I can just about push the head around using my hand.. so I'm wondering if I've over tightened the xx belts. Whilst the problem is stretched short belts? I'm looking to print adjustable tensioner. . Thanks for your swift response.

I hate to say its back :sad: Still doing it..Front edge gap, and rh gap.. even if I increase the flow to 115% its still there, just over full (raised) with gaps on those two edges. Bacl and LH edge are fine. I have printed out new tensioners for the belts, and realigned, loosening all pulleys and c plates, used the axis alignment tools, and then tightened everything. Lubricated all rods with graphite Kabba lock oil. i can push the head around by hand its a little tight. the short belts I cant tighten any more, they are on there end stop, how tight is "very tight" for these? The machine is old, and considering how slack the belts are (without tensioners, I wonder if the small belts have stretched? it would be great if someone could squeeze their short belts together and let me know the minimum gap between them. I can't see anything obvious. All I did orignally is tighten the front belt, but now I have started from scratch, all belts have equal tension, and can be bent about 5mm down. I have ordered new belts. i REALLY welcome your help, as my orders are queing up ;-(

I'm looking to update the firmware of an older ultimaker I have.. I think it has the 2560 atmega installed. when I look at cura it says I cant as it it doesn't support my config (heated bed) and also warns that I must have the extruder upgrade. Is the extruder upgrade warning, just due to the different e-steps with the newer V3 bolt? or something else. So i'm looking to use http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ and construct the custom hex. would this be ok on an older machine, if I just change the esteps, until my new V3 bolt arrives? Thanks for a stunning forum btw ;-)

Tightened all belts, pulleys and cleaned v2 drive bolt. Sorted. Thanks for your help

Cheers. Printing at 50mm/s and 235 with faberdashery filament. All I have done come to think of it is tighten up the front long belt as it appeared slack. .. I will tighten up the belts and check pulleys. .. Do the belts stretch? As u have just bought a newer one which has no belt tightners. .? And they are really tight, quite tuneful when you flick them.. Last question. I struggle to push faster then 70 without the extruder slipping. I can't really tighten it up any more as it's in its sweet spot. Is the vs bolt worth the upgrade. . Thanks dave

Not sure why but I keep getting a gap along all front edges during infill, the back and sides are percent. I'm using simplyfy 3d, with 15% infill over lap. Its just happened all of a sudden.. i use an Ulticontroller and SD cards, wonder if I've "knocked" a setting bi mistake? any thoughts? The front of the Ultimaker is the left, as I have rotated 90 so I can get to the extruder.

Thankyou for such a helpful answer. I need to get this nailed as I now using two ultimakers in my shop. So basically try and keep perimeters and infill the same speed. say 50 - 60 for "average quality" Travel 150.. --------------------------------------- two other questions - Retraction 40mm/s ? at 4.5mm does cura always Retract on layer change? The reason for the questions, is I'm trying simplify 3d and very annoyingly all the settings are in mm/min thanks

I'm looking to speed things currently printing perimeters at 50mm/s and infill at 80. I'm looking to speed things up a little: what is the "Normal" movement speed for non printing moves? also Z axis speed? I understand that there might be a bug with retraction speed, is it half of what you set. and what would be a normal setting as cura shows 40 as default on fesh install, is this really 20? I'm using a UM1 as standard. the extruder gear has two sets of teeth (not sure what type it is). ---------------------------------------------------------------- Optimal layer height:- I wish to use http://calculator.josefprusa.cz/ to find "allowable" layer heights, can we just confirm the leadscrew pitch is 1.5875? and 1.8 degrees. as i want to find a happy height between 0.1 and 0.2mm without error. any help would be much appreciated. David

I'm really interested in this. Just bought an ultimaker and have no controller.. is there an "off the shelf" board which works with the ultimaker, and will fix your case. Thanks David

Found the problem Always make sure the black cam lever is down - no wonder it was under extruding ;-)

230 working..thanks also looks like my z start height had changed, since i cleaned the pet tape... i thought the z height switch was an "omcron" and highly repeatable?maybe i pushed to hard when cleaning. i have a spare hall effect switch, cant see how to get it on the board though, as it only has 2 wires?

it liked like it was under extruding.. double checked diameter 2.76 - 2.82 so averaged at 2.79mm. will try again.. get back in a mo thanks so far mate ;-)

printing at 0.1 or trying to... will try 230 as 235 was too stringy.

Hi, I'm trying to print with black Faberdashery PLA. Im used to my old prusa i3 and mainly used 200 for most filament but never tried Fabs.. Ive recently purchased an ultimaker, and using the supplied "ultimaker filament" printing at 220 no problem. What sort of temp would you print Fabs black with.. Im trying 235, but this seems awe fully high? Does the ultimaker read high by 20 degrees? compared to reprap designs. Any help would be much appreciated Dave.

Martin I have sent you a PM with regards to purchasing your printer ;-)

Is this still for sale?

Fantastic slicer BTW ;-) It would be fantastic if you get set a separate external perimeter speed when you slice your part, not just the option to do it "on the fly" I have several printers and use octoprint/raspberry pis to run them. This would make Cura perfect for me. what do you think? is this possible?

DAID Awesome software.BTW I have tried 13.11.2 and agree with the above comments. Basically, regardless of flow setting I'm getting holes in my top layer. I'm using two different printers both Prusa i3 one with a 0.5 head and one with a 0.4 head, with different pla. Tried different layer heights 0.15-0.3 and fill settings 10% -60% still getting holes in top fill. I have eve tried a 1.5mm top and bottom layer. My favourite build at the moment is 13.06.4, as I much prefer the support material, so much easier to remove, & top layer is perfect. Useful key shortcuts. It would be fantastic, if you added two extra key shortcuts:- Clear Platform Save Gcode Also when selecting printer, save profile two it. at the moment I have to lo0k for the different ini files for different printers. Keep up the fantastic work David./