aviphysics
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Posts posted by aviphysics
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How about a program that scans a folder and automatically sends new gcode files to octoprint? Would run completely separate from Cura.
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Pounds? Why not litres or kilograms?
Because drinking beer by the Liter would be excessive.
I would however like bars to use those glasses with the lines etched on em. Drives me nuts how so many places just fill the glass all the way to the top and don't leave any room for the head.
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*Fixed*I'm not very good with electronics, but I believe that the switch has two states; pin 1 connects with 2 on state 1 and pin1 connects with 3 on state 2.
Easiest way to figure with pins to use might be to solder wires to all three pins and probe the voltages with the machine on.(the wires are just so you can have the machine assembled while you probe with the power on). The wires that are at the same potential with the machine on (will read 0V relative to each other) are the one that you want to wire the second switch across. You can just cut out the third wire. Turn the machine off and probe the wires again to find out which is + and which is -.
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I'll never understand why a country which fought an Independence War against the British Empire still uses Imperial units.
We don't. Our units are different. For example, a U.S. pint is a pound but the British pint is 1 and 1/4 pounds. Seems like those crazy Brits just can't get enough of their beer.
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Except when you use Cura. See it as a small step in the proper direction ;-)
I love it. I too have hopes that the maker movement will plant the seeds of the metric system in the states (even if it was primarily popularized by early 19th century French fascists)
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I think I would take a look at those little office space heaters. would still need to supply a better temperature controller, but they are otherwise pretty much built for the job.
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I was having problem with my filament guide forcing a sharp bend at the entrance to the feeder, causing the filament to break. I made this solution and thought some others might find it useful.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-original-feeder-strain-relief
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I might do that. Don't have a need for this right now, but it would be nice to have a starting point for building one later.
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Is there a plan to keep this going after the kickstarter or is it just a one time thing?
Also wondering if you would feel good about having a pledge level for just a BOM and some instructions.
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Is anyone using a crossflow fan that can be PWM'd? The Silverstone ones I've been using for the past few months are fantastic at constant full blast for PLA and XT, but I would like to be able to turn them down for using materials which have worse layer adhesion like ABS and PET+.
Suggestions?
Use an RC low pass filter. The PWM is 30kHz, so just make sure 1/RC is less than about 10,000. Also, you probably want to use a small resistor (maybe 1 ohm or smaller, depending on fan current) and larger capacitor ( 100 uC ought to do the trick, but bigger wouldn't hurt.)
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Well, CNC machines do tool changes with ATC revolvers all the time, but I figure that the simplest way to control a revolver from the gcode in Marlin would be to treat the revolver as the first extruder, and the true extruders as extruder 2, 3, 4, .... Then, you could issue a M302 P1 (allow cold extrudes, necessary since the revolver is "cold"), then a T0 (select the revolver), then rotate the revolver to drop the old head and pick up the new head, then issue a M302 P0 (deny cold extrudes), and a T(?) to activate the newly selected head. This all presupposes replacement electronics that support multiple extruders, but you would need that past dual extrusion anyway.
One difficulty I see is keeping all the filament tubes from getting tangled.
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BTW, just for the sake of thoroughness, you should double check the connections between the main board and the HBK board. Maybe even post a picture.
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I think the next step would be to rule out the cable by probing the connector on the board.
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I wonder if the Swap at Z function would help you out. Would allow you to use spiralize for most of the model, until you get to the top. I am not sure how good the transition would be.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/swap-at-z
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Ready to join the fray with my own TMC2100 implementation!
According to Trinamic sales, the ICs should be available in March.
Why not Pololu compatible? Because the Pololu footprint is simply too small. I want a clean layout that can actually make use of the TMC2100's nice properties. Also, I want access to all config pins. My board should also work well without any additional cooling or heatsinks (that's what the extensions on the sides of the PCB are for).
Current return paths are much better here than on the silent step stick version (simply because there's more space...), and I also bypassed the IC's 5V regulator using an external 5V source. This saves quite a bit of power loss in the IC, especially when driving the motors at 24V.
I also implemented the minimal ESD protection measures for the driver (just 6 more capacitors) which should improve lifespan and ruggedness of the driver.
It comes with an Arduino shield that accepts these drivers and has jumper fields for all the config options. I have to make some final changes to it (had to switch a few pins on the driver), so there's no preview just yet :(.
/edit:
By the way, the heatsinks on the sides are an experiment - I'll cut them off on one prototype and compare temperatures. We'll see if they're good for something...
/edit2:
Why not make an all-in-one platform? Because I already have a few Arduinos laying around, and this is much cheaper than making one large 4-layer PCB (the shield is just 2 layers).
/edit3:
Provided these work as intended, I'll be selling them within Switzerland.
Sources will be available once it's tested. No use publishing an untested (and therefore not yet working) design...
Will the shield have all the other electronics needed for a 3D printer, or will it be designed to sandwhich between the Arduino and UMO shield?
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The main feature of the 2100 is that they don't need to be configured over SPI and might be cheaper. They are otherwise inferior.
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What about some sort of flexture hinge test (number of flexes of a certain angle before failure) and a self abrasion test (i.e. measured wear on two parts of the same material rubbing against eachother.)? I suspect we would see a real difference between materials on those areas.
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Book marking for later, so I can turn off the auto push. That feature really bugs me.
Also, interested in how the object by object settings might be accessed.
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BTW, IIRC, at one point they said that they answer tickets based on the date of the most recent comment in the ticket, so adding a comment moves you to the back of the line.
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Lol, when I once thought about calling them, I had prepared by looking up some dutch phrases to say hi and explain that I was a dumb american that didn't know any Dutch, but then I couldn't get Skype to work right and never got back around to it. Might have tried harder if I new they spoke English. :(At times they've been 2 weeks but lately I think they are happy that they got it down to 4 days. So I would suspect about 4 days. If you call them during their work hours (M-F, 5am to noon your time) they often answer instantly. Their english is great. Really great. In fact I feel sorry for all those Europeans who don't speak english and call tech support. At least the 2 people I've met (I think they have more now).
For UM2 you get tech support here in USA but for UMO I think it's Netherlands.
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Is there a way to rotate perspective in Cura? Right now the FOV is always centered on the selected object. Is there a way to rotate the camera away from the center so you can get a better view of other things?
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Wow. Hand fabbing the frame. Just remember that the UM prints will only be as square as the frame. You can compensate a tiny bit for the xy rods not being at a perfect 90 degrees, but the z axis has no such adjustment. Might be a good idea to match cut the top and bottom and use a solid jig to make sure the wholes for x and y axis are all at the same height.
Looking at that tape, maybe that is already what you plan to do.
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Also thinking that the direct drive extruder mechanics could be mounted high enough that their bulk might fit over the xy carriage. Then the hot end would fit down through the corner, so that the cartridge would have a profile of a block on top with a rectangular block coming down from one corner.
Put your Ultimaker Upsidedown with Z-Unlimited
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Backed, but still need to let the wife know. Fortunately she doesn't keep an eye on the bank account and the delivery date is a ways out.
Take your time with shipping.