aviphysics
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Posts posted by aviphysics
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Definitely best to do it while the printer is running. Just add a bunch of skirt lines. As you get the hang of it, you will be able to do it with fewer skirt lines.
A fraction of a fraction of a mm can produce a noticeable difference and you can only see that difference while you are printing.
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I have been beginning to wonder how much strength 100% infill actually offers over a spars infill, like 10%.
From a mechanics perspective, it probably increases the objects resistance to pulling or compressing, but not for bending.
For bending, most of the load is carried by the outer walls, instead of the core. The main function of the infill is to help the skin hold its shape, so it can't easily collapse or expand.
For stretching and compressing, the load is more evenly distributed. The most important thing is the total cross section of material that need to be compressed or pulled apart.
In practice, I am beginning to feel like anything over 20% infill is generally a waste.Unless there are special circumstanes, it is best to just design a part with slighty large diameter or increase wall thickness a little.
As for infill patterns, I would like to see some alternatives to the grid we have now. The grid leaves week spots and I don't like the look it lends to translucent material. One thing I would like to try is just randomly rotating the grid at each level, making a sort of rat's nest of overlapping fibers that fills the object by some %. Some other more complicated ideas I have scene on these forums are a pattern that would just form ribs along the walls or an algorithm that would do the grid but bend the lines near the wall, in order to form a curve that is tangent to the wall at the point of contact.
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Something like the Raspberry Pi? It seems to me that picking a board with longevity is more important than ultimate cost efficiency or speed, to prevent everyone having to use a different board after a while
Cool, I will be following this closely.
What about smoothieboard? It seems to be well regarded. Main problem for it right now is that it doesn't do much for print quality beyond an arduino platform, but that could change. There also seem to be a number of beagleboneblack projects as well. My plan was to sit on the sidelines and see who comes out on top.
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What is the "-0.0001" supposed to do? It would seem like in almost any situation where it would make a difference, lineWidth would already be greater than 1.5*nozzleSize, ensuring that linecount would yield the same result with or without that subtraction. Maybe I am missing something.
lineCount = int(wallThickness / (nozzleSize - 0.0001))
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The temperature of the HBK seems to hold pretty stable, so whatever they are doing seems to be working.
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Did you already try running a print file with the extruder motor separated from shaft, just to see what it does?
If not, I might do that and then try running the motor at different filament feed rates to see what it does.
Also, IIRC, the acceleration for the extruder motor is set very high. You could try turning that down some.
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Yeah. I don't know when they started doing it accept maybe sometime in the last 10 years. For a long time, I only used an MCU for process control stuff that needed precise timing, so I also used an external clock. At some point it seems like they started making some substantial improvements, like units that can do full speed USB off the intosc.
I wonder where watterot is getting their tmc2100 from. http://www.watterott.com/de/SilentStepStick%20.%20BTW,%20I%20ordered%20some%20of%20these%20out%20of%20curiosity.
So, where are you planning to go with this ARM/TMC260 board? Is it going to be a smoothie derivative, or something else?
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I am pretty sure the PIC12LF1552 can output its clock on RA4 (Pin 3). At least that is what the datasheet says (page 32 section 5.2.2. http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/40001674E.pdf ) From figure 5.1, you can see that it doesn't output directly from the clock source, but it outputs the post scaled clock divided by 4. The highest frequency that can be sent to the CPU is 32 Mhz (post scaled 8Mhz*4x PLL), so you can only get up to 8 Mhz on RA4. According to the TMC260 datasheet (page 8), that would be just enough.
The main reason I have stuck with PIC for my personal projects is that they do a really good job packing in loads of peripherals. I just didn't see that from other MCU, without generally needing to spend a lot more. The other reason is that they are very low power. Some ARM chips are getting very compelling, but I am too lazy and don't have a need to switch.
Edit: on page 42 of the TMC260 datasheet, it seems to have some contradictory information about the required system clock frequency range. Section 13 says 10-20Mhz, while section 13.1 indicates that 8-16Mhz is okay. Looks like all that might be mute anyway, as it seems like the SPI bus is allowed to operate on whatever clock is fed to the bus; so you could just use the intosc on the TMC260.
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I think here it is about 20 cents/kwh
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Im doing another tutorial now with the fibonacci object prior to any sanding printed in 27hrs at a quicker 70mms at 230deg just to show how great the resultss are even after one long dip. I used gloves in this one, but next time im doing it outside lol! Cant breath that crap in any more its ok when its a tiny tub, but 2.5 litres gets stinky.
Where did you get the fibonacci object model from or did you make it?
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On the pyramid, I would wonder if you had some problems with slipping during retraction. It looks like there is some serious under extrusion going on there. Also looks like there might be some under extrusion on the top layer of the base of the pyramid.
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+1 for safety equipment. Should also be working outside or have a hood for handling that amount of acetone.
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If it is just in the first layer, I would consider that there could be something wrong with the first layer line width setting. If it isn't that, then it is pretty hard for my to guess.
You could try generating a gcode file from a vanilla cura version, and see if it has the same line width problem. The problem could potentially be isolated to the lulz bot edition.
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From the nozzle diameter, it sounds like you are not using a UM or UMO. What printer are you using?
In the meantime...several things things.
1) First layer line width is easily messed up by the relative height of the platform, so it could be that. Does the fill on the first layer look like you are putting out too much plastic? Try printing something with a large flat solid bottom and take a look. The plastic will get squished into little ridges if there is not enough room between the hot end and platform (this seems like the most likely circumstance, if your problem is just with the first layer.)
2) There is a separate setting to adjust first layer line width ("initial layer line width" (%)".) You should make sure that is set correctly. If this is the case, then the bottom layer would probably look somewhat smooth, unlike the first case, but with wider lines than the other layers.
3) If the filament diameter settings is wrong, your printer will put out more or less filament than it thinks it ought to. This would affect all layers, and the fill in any layer with 100% fill will look messed up, like described in the first case.
4) If your "extruder steps/mm" on your printer's firmware is wrong, it will put out more or less filament that it ought to. This would affect all layers, and the fill in any layer with 100% fill will look messed up, like described in the first case.
5) If Cura was configured in a way that made it think you are using an UM2, it will send the printer the volume of material to use instead of distance to move the filament. If you are not using a printer that expects this, it will make your printer use the wrong amount of filament. This would affect all layers, and the fill in any layer with 100% fill will look messed up, like described in the first case.
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Sometime I wonder what the electrical cost is for a print. Just one of those things that I really have no idea about. I am guessing it isn't a lot, but it might be a significant portion of the cost of highly quality prints of small objects.
Seems like it would be cool if Cura could make an estimate on the power consumed to make a print (at least for the UM models). Like filament, it could let you enter a cost per a kWh, (or whatever Europe uses on energy bills. calories?)
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I am pretty sure in Cura, that the extrusion width is the "nozzle size". If you make that number bigger, it will put out more filament and you will get a wider line width. Obviously, making it much narrower than your nozzle width is not going to yield great results (think about what under extrusion looks like. Making it wider than the flat surrounding the nozzle is also not that great.
IIRC, the material feed rate is going to be the ("nozzle size")*("layer thickness")*("print speed"), meaning that Cura calculates the path as if it were a long rectangle (ignoring the fact that the ends of the lines are more like semicircles.) I think one of the purposes of the "infill overlap" setting is to help correct for that.
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Was taking a look at the possibility of implementing the tmc260 in a pololu compatible package. It seems like you could add something like a PIC12LF1552 next to the tmc260. At power up it would program the tmc260 over spi.
The PIC could also be connected to Step, Dir, and ~En pins. When the stepper driver is receiving the disable signal, the Step and Dir pins could be used to send data to the PIC (looks like there might be other pins you could also use. Not sure if the Arduino is connected to the MS1:3 pins.) It looks like the PIC12LF1552 would have 3 pins available; assuming the chip select pin on the tmc260 can just be grounded. The internal clock could be used as the clock for the SPI bus and clock for the TMC260, so one wouldn't have to worry about syncing two different clocks or adding an external oscillator. Cost for the PIC12LF1552 $0.56 USD in quantities of 100; so it wouldn't add terribly to the total cost.
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You could just publish an audio sample.
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Do you think that would carry over to the 2100? It sounded like the main difference was the interface and that the 256 would not be compatible with the UMO board. Maybe I am missing something.You'll hardly notice that it's actually printing. (With the TMC260 that is) The fan will be the noisy part.
Very tempted to plop the $80 USD for the TMC2100 modules, unless it is likely that there would be better versions using the other modules soon. Would also love to hack something together using the TMC260, but don't want to get intwined in another major upgrade project.
Edit: meant TMC260 not 256
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I was thinking of UMO
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The next firmware release will have a "change material" option when you pause the printer.
Will it automatically do a retraction an lift the head out of the way?
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I will be interested to hear the difference in audio on a UMO.
$60 for a set seems worth it if my printer isn't audible throughout the house, especially at night.
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Yeah, I was assuming that you just gave them a dxf or something with the pattern for the water jet.
Flexible shaft - the best of both worlds?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Is acceleration of 50 not high enough?
@gr5, BTW, is acceleration in steps/s/s or mm/s/s?