Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I missed this post, but Netweaver reached out to me. I posted my spacer on youmagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/sanjiu-spacer-for-um2 I don't think it's good for flexibles.
  2. Well, finally got it. I was correct that the plastic was all the way into the notch/slot area. I managed to pull more material out and push it up and out while hot. To get to it I had to unclip all the wires too.
  3. I think I had a PETG print come unstuck some time ago, but I didn't notice that the filament backed up inside the print head. It's been printing fine, but today when I wanted to change the print core, I couldn't get it out. There was a solid block of PETG. Been there before, but this time the plastic seems to have creeped up into the plastic part, and keep the printcore from lifting properly to disengage from it's slot. I've got it disassembled, and removed most of the PETG, but I still can't get it to release. I've tried heating and pushing it up while hot, etc, but to no avail. An
  4. if you have a hot knife or soldering iron you can also kindof cut through it. I would try general heat first though. You can use a hair dryer to start. If you have a soldering hot air, you can direct it pretty specifically, but very high heat can be acheived. if you can get it just hot enough with a hair dryer, you may be able to soften it.
  5. those braided insulations are for the heat core and are heat resistant. They won't melt like plastic insulation. If you do see plastic insulation though, be careful. Mostly you want to get it soft and pick it to pieces with tweezers. You can also use something like flush cutters to cut away some of the plastic, but if you get it warm, it might be easier to just pull it off.
  6. Ugh, just happened to me too, but not quite as bad. Generally, I heat the printhead to the appropriate temp, and then try to pull it off around the nozzle area. when it gets up higher like that, it's harder, and judicious application of a heat gun and tweezers/needle nose pliers to pull it off. Be careful not to melt/deform other plastic parts.
  7. I solved the problem by deleting my entire install of Cura and starting from scratch. I verified it initially by hand editing the gcode, but with a fresh install of cura, I can print via network etc. Note: you do have to delete all the settings as Cura faithfully tries to copy previous settings from older versions. On the mac it's in ~/Library/Application Support/Cura/<various versions> google cura settings locations if you are on another platform.
  8. As a side note, if I copy in all my old settings from ~/Library/Application Support/cura/4.0 the problem comes back. I tried selectively copying files, but there are so many cross dependencies, I ended up giving up. I still haven't isolated where the setting that causes the problem is.
  9. It's funny @Smithy I just tried that (probably while you were typing} and it does print now. I don't have any plugins configured, could it be an invisible migration from a previous install? how do I get rid of it's automatic generation? I'm digging around in ~/Library/Application Support/Cura/4.0 and not finding anything Update; I never found where it was getting set, but I blew away that dir, and reinstalled Cura. There were apparently settings somewhere else because it referenced some of my custom profiles, and said they were corrupt, did I want to do a factory reset
  11. If people really have no idea, is it possible to downgrade? I uderstand this one was a biggy, so I was worried about trying to downgrade and making things worse. Btw, I looked at the Gcode, looks normal to me, with Z movements to .3, and then to .27 for the pre-extrusion. No gcode preprocessing, and I upgraded to the latest version of cura, though it was doing the same thing before with a 3.X version. (sorry I didn't make a not of it before upgrade)
  12. @smithy No, not using the Z offset plugin. I downloaded the logs, but don't know what to look for. Like I said, it does the auto levelling (better than before) but then lowers the build plate about half way and starts printing in air. Also, if I raise-buildplate, it comes right up to touch.
  13. My Ultimaker 3 just asked me to upgrade the firmware and I did. Since upgrading, it levels the bed, but then lowers the bed and prints in the air. I tried a factory reset, manual bed levelling, and upgraded Cura to the 4.0 download, all the same. Help! my UM3 is worthless now!
  14. The answer is above in GR5's post. Short answer is (unless you got one programmed differently) just pretend it's an AA 0.4 and change the line width. Cura seems to calculate slightly less than the rated nozzle diameter for the standard cores, so YMMV. (e.g. 0.75 for 0.80 mm nozzle)
  15. I just installed the Sanjiu. It seems to be working quite well. I had the Meduza feeder before, but over time, it seems like the plastic parts twisted, and I was getting periodic (about 1/inch) underextrusion. The Motor shaft on my UM2 extruder motor was too long though, so I had to shim the Sanjiu out with 8 washers. I'll probably design a spacer plate to replace it. oh, and the other problem, the 2.85mm bowden clamp wouldn't fit my "double bowden 4mm inside 6mm)" . that I use for 1.75mm filament. I had to switch over to a pure 1.75mm bowden. I had originally tried to
  • Create New...