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  1. if you have a hot knife or soldering iron you can also kindof cut through it. I would try general heat first though. You can use a hair dryer to start. If you have a soldering hot air, you can direct it pretty specifically, but very high heat can be acheived. if you can get it just hot enough with a hair dryer, you may be able to soften it.
  2. those braided insulations are for the heat core and are heat resistant. They won't melt like plastic insulation. If you do see plastic insulation though, be careful. Mostly you want to get it soft and pick it to pieces with tweezers. You can also use something like flush cutters to cut away some of the plastic, but if you get it warm, it might be easier to just pull it off.
  3. Ugh, just happened to me too, but not quite as bad. Generally, I heat the printhead to the appropriate temp, and then try to pull it off around the nozzle area. when it gets up higher like that, it's harder, and judicious application of a heat gun and tweezers/needle nose pliers to pull it off. Be careful not to melt/deform other plastic parts.
  4. I solved the problem by deleting my entire install of Cura and starting from scratch. I verified it initially by hand editing the gcode, but with a fresh install of cura, I can print via network etc. Note: you do have to delete all the settings as Cura faithfully tries to copy previous settings from older versions. On the mac it's in ~/Library/Application Support/Cura/<various versions> google cura settings locations if you are on another platform.
  5. As a side note, if I copy in all my old settings from ~/Library/Application Support/cura/4.0 the problem comes back. I tried selectively copying files, but there are so many cross dependencies, I ended up giving up. I still haven't isolated where the setting that causes the problem is.
  6. It's funny @Smithy I just tried that (probably while you were typing} and it does print now. I don't have any plugins configured, could it be an invisible migration from a previous install? how do I get rid of it's automatic generation? I'm digging around in ~/Library/Application Support/Cura/4.0 and not finding anything Update; I never found where it was getting set, but I blew away that dir, and reinstalled Cura. There were apparently settings somewhere else because it referenced some of my custom profiles, and said they were corrupt, did I want to do a factory reset. I did and everything seems to work now, though I have to tediously recreate all my custom material settings and profiles.
  7. ;START_OF_HEADER ;HEADER_VERSION:0.1 ;FLAVOR:Griffin ;GENERATOR.NAME:Cura_SteamEngine ;GENERATOR.VERSION:4.0.0 ;GENERATOR.BUILD_DATE:2019-03-19 ;TARGET_MACHINE.NAME:Ultimaker 3 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:210 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.MATERIAL.VOLUME_USED:646 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.MATERIAL.GUID:506c9f0d-e3aa-4bd4-b2d2-23e2425b1aa9 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.NOZZLE.DIAMETER:0.4 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.NOZZLE.NAME:AA 0.4 ;BUILD_PLATE.TYPE:glass ;BUILD_PLATE.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:70 ;PRINT.TIME:341 ;PRINT.GROUPS:1 ;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.X:9 ;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.Y:6 ;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.Z:0.27 ;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.X:125.891 ;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.Y:116.891 ;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.Z:10.07 ;END_OF_HEADER ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.0.0 T0 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode G92 Z-0.3 G92 E0 M109 S210 G0 F15000 X9 Y6 Z2 G280 G1 F1500 E-6.5 ;LAYER_COUNT:50 ;LAYER:0 M107 G0 F7500 X108.473 Y99.325 Z0.27 ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F1500 E0 G1 F1200 X108.928 Y98.945 E0.01004 G1 X109.431 Y98.631 E0.02007 G1 X109.971 Y98.386 E0.03011 G1 X110.54 Y98.217 E0.04016 G1 X111.125 Y98.126 E0.05019 G1 X111.509 Y98.109 E0.05669 Note also, if I turn off auto-levelling it's worse (and I did manually level it after setting levelling frequency to never) It basically goes all the way to to the bottom and then tries to move the wrong direction.
  8. If people really have no idea, is it possible to downgrade? I uderstand this one was a biggy, so I was worried about trying to downgrade and making things worse. Btw, I looked at the Gcode, looks normal to me, with Z movements to .3, and then to .27 for the pre-extrusion. No gcode preprocessing, and I upgraded to the latest version of cura, though it was doing the same thing before with a 3.X version. (sorry I didn't make a not of it before upgrade)
  9. @smithy No, not using the Z offset plugin. I downloaded the logs, but don't know what to look for. Like I said, it does the auto levelling (better than before) but then lowers the build plate about half way and starts printing in air. Also, if I raise-buildplate, it comes right up to touch.
  10. My Ultimaker 3 just asked me to upgrade the firmware and I did. Since upgrading, it levels the bed, but then lowers the bed and prints in the air. I tried a factory reset, manual bed levelling, and upgraded Cura to the 4.0 download, all the same. Help! my UM3 is worthless now!
  11. The answer is above in GR5's post. Short answer is (unless you got one programmed differently) just pretend it's an AA 0.4 and change the line width. Cura seems to calculate slightly less than the rated nozzle diameter for the standard cores, so YMMV. (e.g. 0.75 for 0.80 mm nozzle)
  12. I just installed the Sanjiu. It seems to be working quite well. I had the Meduza feeder before, but over time, it seems like the plastic parts twisted, and I was getting periodic (about 1/inch) underextrusion. The Motor shaft on my UM2 extruder motor was too long though, so I had to shim the Sanjiu out with 8 washers. I'll probably design a spacer plate to replace it. oh, and the other problem, the 2.85mm bowden clamp wouldn't fit my "double bowden 4mm inside 6mm)" . that I use for 1.75mm filament. I had to switch over to a pure 1.75mm bowden. I had originally tried to jam it in but it came loose about 80% through a 4 hour print.
  13. I installed the Sanjiu feeder on my UM2 with other mods) The tinker firmware makes it easy. I had to invert the E axis, and change the E-steps (I think it ended up at 633, that post listed above shows you how to measure to calibrate)
  14. I've had my UM3 for about a year now, and my UM2 for nearly 5. I just posted a video review which you can see below, but if you are not a video person (or can't stand to hear me droning on), here's the summary: Much anticipation, mostly around support material. Autolevelling somewhat, but it was never really an issue. What I like: Same or slightly better quality Reliable filament drive (really the same as the UM2+) Able to reliably print flexible filaments Excellent dual material support (and improving all the time) Support is a game changer. I don't like PVA very much (messy and moisture sensitive) but the breakaway material is excellent. All metal printcores enable a bunch of new materials (I'm in love with Polymakers PC-Plus) Fantastic community! Network printing What I miss: Changing nozzles. Printcores are expensive. Somewhat alleviated by the 3DSolex Hardcore, but it's expensive, and doesn't fit well (though I demonstrate a workaround in the video. Material management is confusing. I'm starting to understand it based on some posts in this forum, but I'm really used to customizing on printer. (Daid, you don't need to respond here, perhaps I'll link to where you and others explained it) What frustrates me: Odd hardware errors. Usually cleared by rebooting, I know it's more complex system, but it still seems a bit buggy. There have been a lot of improvements for which I'm grateful. Confusing, minimal job control. I hope this gets better. The Network printing is made less useful by having to do some operations on the printer and some on Cura/browser. The retry option on failed/aborted prints doesn't always cancel. Filament overrides have to be done at the PC, and not on the printer. I also love but forgot to mention: Open Source! Maybe our job control improvements will come from here. I'm already using a timelapse script, and I love that the printer has an API! The Ultimaker filaments. I appreciate their consistent quality and now reasonable price. (They've never been unreasonable, but there are now decent US distributers.
  15. NOTE: THIS PROJECT REQUIRED MESSING WITH HIGH AMPERAGE ELECTRICITY, AND THE DANGER OF FIRE IS HIGH! DO NOT ATTEMPT!!! (Unless you absolutely know what you are doing.) I have a modified UM2 (olsson, Meduza/Rober feeder, 1.75mm conversion) which has been working well for about 4 years. A month or so ago, my power supply just stopped working, 0V, no blue light. The printer still worked if I plugged my UM3 PSU in. I needed to keep printing, and I happened to have a high amp 24V PSU that I'd been saving for a CNC project. After opening the brick and determining that there was nothing I could fix, I removed the output wires/cable, soldered some leads to the end and connected to my power supply. Mostly because the replacement is pretty expensive, and the new supply was working, I decided not to order a new one. the only downsides were that the new powersupply wasn't very portable, and was very loud (it has a fan) During this, @gr5 told me that these supplies sometimes they come back to life when you let them sit over night. Sure enough I plugged the brick back in and it was working again. I didn't trust it enough to reverse my "borrowing" of the cord so I came up with a different solution: install a female barrel jack in the brick, and also on the new power supply. Putting a plug on the cord, I could swap back and forth as I see fit. I designed the adapter in Autodesk Fusion360 (it was pretty simple) It had to be printed with support on my UM3. BTW, That breakaway material is the bomb! Speaking of which, my cautionary tale: I've been cleaning my office and I couldn't find any heavy gauge wire. I decided to snipe some from a pc power supply harness, and well, I should have trusted my instinct, as it looked a little weedy once I stripped it. (thick insulation, but the wires weren't so thick.) As a result, the first time I powered on, the printer came on fine, but when I drew serious current (bed heating up) by starting a print, the wires vaporized. Fortunately for me nothing caught on fire (though the smoke detectors did go off). I ran to my local electronics store and got some 16 Ga wire. and everything has been running fine. If you do attempt this, (please don't) I think you should use at least 18 gauge stranded wire. Also, the PCB isn't the greatest quality and it's very easy to lift a trace pulling the original wires out when desoldering. The design will be up in youmagine https://www.youmagine.com/osbock/designs
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