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Hello, It seems that I broke the SD card reader. It worked well since 2013. Now the printer crash when trying to read a SD card. I tried : - 4 different SD cards with various speeds => FAILED - format them is FAT32 => FAILED - flash again the last stable Tinkergnome firmware. Flashed successfully but didn't solved the issue - flash again the last stable original UM2+ firmware. Flashed successfully but didn't solved the issue The UM2+ is still working with the USB cable. My conclusion is that the SD card reader is probably broken. Someone knows which manufacturer / part number they use ? It's not mentioned in the BOM on github. I don't know if there are more details in Altium. I cannot read the files... Thanks Best,

Thanks all for the quick reply. Hardware ordered. Eager to install everything 8)

Hi, I have an Ultimaker 2 without any modification except the Olsson block. I would like to upgrade to the Mark2. Can I buy only one UM2+ upgrade and use the original print head with Olsson block as second head with Bondtech feeder ? This will save me a UM2+ upgrade kit ;-) In the Mark2 essential, is the PCB included ? Are they available ? Thanks ! Cheers Gauthier

Hi, Do someone have the specifications for the NFC tags and readers ? What kind of NFC tags are used ? Do someone have a datasheet or the part number used ? I would like to be able to read the data on the tags and write new tags from a raspberry pi/arduino Thanks Cheers

We would like for sure to get the Ultimaker data (both filaments and settings) with pleasure on the website. The database behind is able to handle terabytes of data. We will add slicers export before the end of 2016 for Cura, Simplify3D, Kissslicer and Slic3r. Even for UM3, users may be interested into having other options for many reasons like type of plastics, composites, cost, color, etc... They will need a way to find and source them. They will need after to find the right settings. For the pictures of the settings on the website, they will be added in the next release. We will release also an explore page where users can see what others printed. Thanks for the feedback !

I created Filaments.directory to help the community to find new filament with ease by collecting data about filaments all over the world. I launched last week a new feature where users can share their print settings for the combination printer and filament. The goal is to collect as much data as possible, create default profile and avoid the trial and error process when using a new product. All the user's settings are shared under Creative Commons by-nc-sa/4.0 licence. I launched a contest to celebrate the new feature with Wanhao, Colorfabb, Extrudr and Innofil. If you register on Filaments.directory, you have one chance to win. If you share a print setting, one more chance. The more you share, the more likely you will win one of the 35 prizes. Contest : I want to participate Thanks for your help ! PS : we like feedback. If your filament or printer is not listed, please comment this post.

Hello, I ordered the 1730 full metal hotend. I have to choose between 12 and 24V hotend. The UM2 hotend is 12 or 24V ? I didn't find the information inside the manuels except that UM2 operates at 24V. It's not specific to the hotend. Just want to be sure ;-) Thanks

The results are on 3D PRinting Industry : http://3dprintingindustry.com/2016/01/21/new-global-filament-directory-builds/ Thanks for all !

Sure ! I have already started to share some results on Twitter with the hashtag #3dprintingsurvey. Thanks !

Already 62 responses. I still need 38 responses ! Thanks in advance for your participation.

Already 41 responses in 24 hours. Great ! I need 100 responses ! Thanks in advance for your participation.

Hi everyone, I created a survey about 3D printing filaments : https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/3d_printing_filament It takes only 5 minutes to complete and the results will be published on my blog. Thanks for your help ! Cheers Gauthier

Update : For those who have the same problem, It was too wet PLA. The Ultimaker 1 bowden tube is compatible with the Ultimaker 2. Thanks

I will see for the parameters tonight. I found also a bowden tube problem. I had a massive bronzefill problem. The head was full of bronze. The filament in the bowden tube was pretty hot. I found that the inner diameter of the bowden tube is too narrow the last cm. I have to change it. Do you know if the bowden tube on the online store is compatible with the UM2 ? Thanks Gauthier

Hi, I have some problems on the picture here. Some lines are full of small holes... It seems that increasing the flow by 10% and slower speed solve the problem. Do you know why ? Is there a better solution ? Thanks in advance G

Do you made a profile with your settings ? If I have a little bit of grinding, what can I do to solve that problem ? Thanks

Hi, I have an UM2 and some bronze fill from Colorfabb. I used Cura to slice a model with the Colorfabb profile (http://learn.colorfabb.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/ultimaker_2_02_bronzefill.rar) I added a thin layer of glue on the glass and the bronze fill doesn't stick on. I use brim feature on the last um2 firmware. I had to abort the print 3 times. I tried with 60°C and 75°C heated bed. Do you have some advices ? Thanks

Hi, I found the project on KickStarter : It's an universal paste extruder who will work with any FDM 3D printer with stepper motors. What's your opinion ? Someone have experience with paste 3D printers ? What kind of paste works well ? The new head can be too heavy for the actual UM/UM2 head ? What about the slicer ? Who control the extruder ? Will it affect the UM/UM2 long term reliability ? Thanks for comments G

Hi, I tried Cura and Meshmixer to support my prints. IMHO, Meshmixer support structures are far better than those with Cura : less material, better support, quicker prints. Is there other good softwares : general or specific purpose. Thanks G

Cura only adds two supports at the left and right side. The PLA was too melted and the supports had fallen into the sides. The bed was cleaned with a new thin layer of glue. The spoon is not flat... I will try with a lower bed temperature and heavier supports. Thanks for advices.

I had good result with heated bed at 35°C Thanks for advices !

Hi, I try to print a big spoon with PLA 210°C, 75°C heated bed, 50mm/s: The results are here : https://imgur.com/a/Ss6Yw I tried to print it vertically with meshmixer support with brim in cura with 30 loops => no success, not stable enough I tried to print it vertically with cura support and brim with 30 loops => not stable enough I tried to print it horizontally with meshmixer support => not enough adherence on glass... even at 25mm/s Do you have an idea of to print this ??? Thanks

Hi, I want to know how I can create models like dizingof creations (eg http://www.3dizingof.com/3D-Printing/product/cells-bowl-by-dizingof/). Did someone knows how he is designed that ? Software ? Tutorials ? Is this very difficult ? Thanks for advices

Hi, I have printed some Marvin (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:215703) but the prints are not perfect. There is small overhangs and the ears are not very symmetrical. Eyes are not very well printed. I used Ultimaker PLA with default settings. Any advice ? Thanks

Thanks for your quick reply. I have the same opinion but I want to try with thinner nozzle parameter. I will have feeding problems with mismatch between slicer nozzle parameter and real nozzle width, isn't it ? Thanks