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closedcircuit

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  1. closedcircuit

    changing filement halfway print

    Has this issue been fixed in the latest firmware?
  2. Sorry Stefan - you are right. The title was not clear and has been amended. Thanks for the observation!
  3. I came across a little bug this morning. I was printing with a pause at layer 49 to change filaments. When asked to do so, I selected the wrong filament by accident (NGEN instead of PLA). I cancelled the "change filament" process, restarted it and selected PLA. What happened next was that I got stuck with a two messages alternating very quickly: "Heating nozzle..." and "Cooling nozzle...". This continued for several minutes. I tried different things (e.g. selecting a different type of filament and coming back to PLA, resuming and immediately pausing the print, etc.) but nothing worked. In case this happens to you, my quick fix was to force-feed the new filament until it starts oozing out of the nozzle and resume the print. It's not an elegant solution but it saved my print...
  4. closedcircuit

    Glass Bed Sugar Adhesion

    First test with NGEN and a 50/50 sugar mix. So far, so good. Great idea, Cleven!
  5. closedcircuit

    Glass Bed Sugar Adhesion

    @Cleven - great idea. Thanks for sharing! Have you tried any other materials? I'm experiencing adhesion problems with ColorFabb's NGEN and I will definitely try a splash of "Cleven's Potion" later on this week. ;-)
  6. closedcircuit

    UM2 - Replacing heat cartridge and PT100 B Sensor

    This is really useful and practical guidance and exactly what I was looking for. Many, many thanks!
  7. closedcircuit

    UM2 - Replacing heat cartridge and PT100 B Sensor

    Thanks a lot Robert. It is indeed a good video, but I was wondering about the other end of the cables (where/how to plug them). I should have been clearer in my original message - sorry.
  8. I need to replace both the heat cartridge and PT100 B Sensor on my UM2 (basically, the cables "drowned" in melted PLA which was then impossible to remove without damaging the respective cables). Could someone please point me in the right direction in terms of how best to replace these two items (e.g. is there a good guide or video available)? Cheers Phil
  9. closedcircuit

    Let’s design a multirotor together.

    I haven't tried printing a bayonet (yet)? I don't know if it would work in this instance as bayonet mechanisms often rely on water pressure to prevent accidental openings. I guess that it would require an additional safety lock, or something. The oring needs to be both flexible (to increase the surface area connecting both parts) and strong... @Sander: Would you be able to test UM's flexible PLA and see how an oring would come out? In particular, would it be smooth and strong enough to resist friction?
  10. closedcircuit

    Let’s design a multirotor together.

    @Coen: Great work! Thanks. If I read your drawing correctly, it looks like you've used a classic assembly where the oring requires compression to work. I do a lot of technical diving and underwater photography and we generally avoid these types of orings if we can. There are two main reasons for that: If the locking mechanism is not screwed tight, or if it becomes slightly unscrewed, the compression is lost and the the thing starts to leak. In addition, plastic threads are quite fragile and can easily get damaged by repetitive screwing/unscrewing or if you think that a leak will appear if you don't screw it really tight; The oring can sometime "jump" out of its seat during assembly. If that happens, it's something that's very difficult to notice; Instead, we prefer orings that sit in a groove located just above the thread. It requires a touch of lubricant (generally silicone gel), but it's much safer. I'm not sure if I'm making any sense and I've enclosed below a couple of examples. The locking mechanism here is a bayonet, but the oring principle remains the same: Wide Angle Port - The oring is in blue on the far left of the picture Adapter - The oring is the light grey bit above the bayonet locking mechanism I hope that I haven't misread your drawing completely and that the above helps.
  11. closedcircuit

    Let’s design a multirotor together.

    Thanks for all the info. This is really appreciated! With regard to components, the ultimate decision presumably lies with Sander and the group as a whole, but I must say that I would love to use (and therefore learn about) an APM2.6 or a Pixhawk. These are open source and would allow us to add some really cool features (or not if someone wants to keep cost down).
  12. closedcircuit

    Let’s design a multirotor together.

    @MrWong: The unit you've built looks stunning. I was wondering what system components you used and if you have any experience with open source autopilots like Pixhawk and/or APM2.x (good or bad)?
  13. closedcircuit

    Error - Stopped Temp sensor

    @carlose.martin: You can also check this excellent troubleshooting guide which contains a specific section about this issue (as well as some pictures). http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#temperror
  14. closedcircuit

    Let’s design a multirotor together.

    @ErickRoyer: My preference would be for your option 2). I do travel a lot and it would be great to have a small foldable 250 that I could take with me (as opposed to bulkier quads like DJI Phantoms). Do you have any thoughts with regard to which flight controller, motors, ESCs, etc. to use?
  15. closedcircuit

    Un petit café (ou autre) entre amis

    @snow13710: Je suis sur 3DHUBS depuis mai et j'ai reçu 4 commandes depuis. Ca ne paie définitivement pas les factures (moyenne d'environ €70 par commande), mais par contre, j'ai pu rencontrer des gens très intéressants. Par ex. un inventeur qui avait besoin d'imprimer un prototype, un autre proprio d'imprimante 3D qui avait besoin d'une pièce pour réparer sa Velleman, un gars qui fabrique des hélicos RC, etc. Et le petit profit qui en ressort me permet de payer le filament que je consomme moi-même...
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