anon4321
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Posts posted by anon4321
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I started with the UM1 kit and I am happy with it. To reduce the cost of entry, you should consider it as long as you have the skills to assemble it. Otherwise, like for someone selling an assembled UM1.
I think functionally and performance wise the UM1 and UM2 are very close. The UM1 is missing the heated bed which is can be added/built by you or you can wait for UM to release the HB kit for the UM1 which is rumored to be soon.
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Most fans of these type are DC brushless motors and as such are electronically commutated. The electronics usually have a stall detection mechanism that will detect when the fan is blocked and shut off power. Then it periodically pulses the motor to see if it spins.
So if you block the fan, it will momentarily shut off and try to restart in a second or two. If the tach signal isn't detected immediately (within 10s of milliseconds), they turn off the motor power and repeat.
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Measure those voltages again. Ideally with the cover on and while you are trying to move the axes.
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Is it working now?
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http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6016-possible-problem-with-cura-beta-um1-heated-bed/
Try flashing with your custom built firmware. When you select self built bed, Cura will flash a version of the firmware intended for the soon to be released heated bed kit from Ultimaker which used a different type of sensor for the bed temperature. This caused the firmware to flip out
You will (probably) need to pull the arduino out and reflash using the Arduino IDE and your self built custom firmware if you can't do it in Cura.
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Jonny, dude... You should get a flippin' medal for the instructions! Awesome work.
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Duh.... Nick did a fan duct for the UM block....
Just need to add the E3D duct mount clip at the right location.
This was probably the forerunner of the one he used on the E3D V5 mount:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/tapir-shroud-for-ultimaker#!design-information
Anyone know a way to convert the SLDPRT into something I can import into DSM? Can someone convert it to a STEP file?
/edit
Ok, so it's not as simple as adding the clip so it can be mounted. Looking at the stl, it is built with the UM1 nozzle offset in mind.
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R4ix, the fan duct design that Jonny is using was done by Nick and does NOT work with the UM block.
See this post a couple pages back:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1877-e3d-all-metal-hotend-for-ultimaker/?p=58014
While the mock up is the original Foley design, Jonny's design is dimensionally very close to the mock up and you can see the UM block interfering with the fan duct.
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Sorry Jonny, forgot to mentioned I printed in PLA. So for PLA 20% is ok from a structure perspective. With XT it sounds like 100% is the way to go.
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Hey Jonny,
How important is it to print at 100% fill? I printed at 20% and the parts print fine and feel ridged.
Did you have a problem that required 100% fill?
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It's possible if as the fan gets older, it draws more current. More current will result in "stronger" noise.
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I have a UM1 that I built from a kit and then added a self made heated bed.
I've run into problems but have been able to fix them pretty quickly.
I think UM is pretty good about supporting their printers and warranty.
I will warn you that currently UM's support and order fulfillment process is HORRIBLE. I believe they will always eventually do right by the customer but you usually need to really push them to get an order completed and shipped.
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So the printer partially runs without the jumper? Or did you replace the jumper and get the hotend to heat? Are you sure the hotend was heated?
If the PS is shutting down, it indicates that either it is bad or there is a short or partial short in the board.
You will need a voltmeter to check the points I mentioned.
Was the PS replaced?
/edit
The UM1 runs on two voltages basically the stepper/heater voltage from the power connector and the logic voltage. The logic voltage comes from the 12V regulator which is supplied from the power connector and the 12V then goes to the Arduino (when the jumper is in) which then regulates it down to 5V (and 3.3V). The 5V is sent back up to the UM1 shield and is used for the Ulticontroller and the logic side of the stepper drivers. When you remove the jumper and plug in the USB cable the Arduino uses the 5V from the USB cable to run and still sends it back up to the shield.
So if the Ulticontroller is working without the jumper but the motors aren't stepping then it implies the supply voltage is insufficient.
The confusing part is the heater is run off the supply voltage too. How long does it take the heater to reach the set temp?
It's possible that one or more of the stepper drivers are bad and when enabled, they draw too much current cause the PS to shutdown or the supply voltage to dip. It's possible that it could dip enough that path to the Arduino 5V power goes too low for the Arduino to get enough voltage on the 5V regulator to remain running.
There are a few other things that run off the supply voltage. Namely the fan that cools the electronics and the fan on the print head. You should observe those, particularly the electronics cooling fan as it is directly connected to the supply voltage to see if it is slowing down when you attempt to electronically move the head
There are also capacitors across the supply line that might be shorting or possibly shorting the supply. However, usually when a capacitor fails, it fails either completely open or shorted.
/edit2
The thermocouple amp on the top of the print head which is critical to measuring the temp requires a clean 5V. If you saw wild swings while heating with the printer self powered (jumper in), it indicates that the voltage path from the supply connector to the 12V regulator to the Arduino's 5V regulator is unstable causing the 5V line to be unstable resulting in what looks to be wild temp swings.
This would also explain the random reboots.
This is more evidence of problems with the primary power system. The fact that you had the PS shutdown means it is either weak or being overtaxed by something. The primary current sinks are the heater and the steppers.
/edit3
Just timed how long my printer takes to go from room temp to 210C - about 105 seconds. Is yours about the same?
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That has been in Cura for several weeks now.
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Realistically, and others might disagree, I view 3D printing as still in the hobbyist realm. Meaning that if you expect a consumer experience where you just "push print", we aren't there yet.
Many of these things:
clogs, homing errors, retraction optimization issues, lack of dimensional accuracy of the prints, warping issues and bed adhesion issues are simply the nature of the hobby-ness of 3D printing at this point.
Things are relative and even with the hobby limitations, I think the satisfaction with a 3D printer will be largely based on how often problems happens. UM1 & UM2s have all those problems/limitation and anyone that tells you otherwise is full of it. However, once you figure it out, UM1&UM2s can work well. That might be true of a makerbot too.
However, somethings will always be an issue at this point. Accuracy, warping and adhesion are always going to be a concern with thermoplastics because they shrink when they cool and worse yet, they shrink differently depending on the batch, color, shape, temp and cooling rate.
All I can tell you is UMs can be made to work within their limitations and work well. When you have problems with them and you will, there are a lot of knowledgeable people here that will help.
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Oops sorry the version was a typo. THe version that never seems to change should exactly be:
Ultimaker: 13.12
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OK, my first thought was that the Arduino was bad. However, since that was swapped, I'm speculating about two things (no guarantees though just things for you to check).
There is a 12V regulator on the control board (the top board) that feeds power to the Arduino. There is also a jumper on the board that determines if the 12V regulator powers the Arduino.
So the two immediate thoughts are:
- The regulator is bad or overheating
- The jumper isn't in or isn't making good connection.
Does the printer run without the USB plugged in? Does it execute moves? If so the jumper is probably OK. However if you need to plug the USB cable in that means the Arduino is pulling power from the USB cable and then the problem is that the USB power input has a 500ma resettable fuse which may trip depending on the load.
I'd check the jumper since it's easy, If the controller is oriented such that the USB, poiwer and switch are on the top as if you just pushed the printer over from the right side, the jumper is at the bottom left and is labelled ARD_PWR. If you remove it, the printer MUST be connected to the USB so the Arduino is powered. Remove it and most likely the Ulticontroller will no longer show text. Place it back, jiggle it etc. See if the behavior changes.
The next thing would be to check if the 12V output is good and you would need a voltmeter/multimetter to check, Do you have one? If so, with the board oriented as before, on the top left a little ways down there is a connector labelled 19V & LEDs. Measure that, it is the input voltage from the power supply. Then just below that on the left edge there are pads labelled 3.3V, 5V, GND (two pads) and then VIN. Measure the voltage from the GND pads to 3.3V, 5V and VIN which is the output of the 12V regulator so should be close to 12V
If they check out, then the next thing is to eliminate as many sources of the problem as possible. I would recommend you do the following:
Power off and unplug then disconnect all cables except the temp sensor, the X stepper and the electronics cooling fan (I mean all, endstops, steppers, hotend heater, fan etc). Label/mark and note the orientation of the drivers (usually done by noting if the adjustment screw is above or below the heatsink) and then carefully remove all stepper drivers except the X driver. Disconnect the Ultcontroller. Replace the cover so the fan is cooling parts (always do this after subsequent steps).
Now see if you can get the X axis to move. Manually move it to the home position (front left). Connect the USB cable and the power supply and switch on. Start Cura and go to File->Preferences and change the printing window option to Pronterface. The go to File-> Print.
On the left you will see something that looks like a target. It allows you to electronically move the head in .1, 1mm, 10mm or 100mm depending on which "ring" you click and moves in the direction labelled. Using the +X side, click the 1mm ring and see if the head moves.
When testing, use the 1mm moves. Note that if you followed my instructions, you disconnected the endstops so don't go too far with moving the head electronically. If you do, the printer will make a horrible noise but is unlikely to be damaged.
If X is working, power off and unplug. Place the Y driver back. NOTE: VERIFY THE ORIENTATION. IF YOU POWER THE PRINTER WITH THE DRIVER IN THE WRONG ORIENTATION, THE DRIVER WILL BURN UP. Then do the Z. NOTE THE ORIENTATION AGAIN. If X, Y and Z are working, place the extruder driver back in **** VERY IMPORTANT **** THE DRIVER WILL MOST LIKELY BE ORIENTED 180 degrees from those on the right. When you put the E driver back in place, test the X, Y and Z axes. You can't test the E driver until the hotend is heated about something like 170C
Now reconnect all the endstops. recheck X,Y,Z.
Power off and unplug. Now reconnect the hotend heater. Back in the printing window, use the temperature box to set the the temp to 180. Watch the graph and the temp in the window title and keep using the X, Y and Z to test that the printer is responding and not hung. If it hangs/stops responding unplug immediately. If it stabilizes at 180, use the top of E bar in the printing window to extrude 1mm of filament and check that the extruder is turning.
Now put the temp up to 220. Watch the graph and the temp in the window title and keep using the X, Y and Z to test that the printer is responding and not hung.
If it stabilizes at 220, power off and unplug and reconnect the fan. Retest at 220C. Watch the graph and the temp in the window title and keep using the X, Y and Z to test that the printer is responding and not hung.
Finally, reconnect the Ulticontroller.
Let us know what you find causes the first failure.
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To add to GR5's info, the current versions of Cura has a Pronterface like printer interface that you can use to issue gcodes piecemeal to the printer.
Select in File->Preferences.
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Can you list the parts that were replaced?
Has the Arduino Mega 2560 replaced (the board under the controller board)?
I have a custom firmware on my so I can't tell you the version. Unfortunately, I don't think the version is ever incremented anyway. I think it will always say 13.11
You should be able to move the print head via the Ulticontroller. I take it you can't? Under the Prepare menu, I think the last item (or nearly the last) is Move axis and you can use that to move them.
Does that menu item not work for you?
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Darn it!!!!!! Made two attempts to print the body and they both came unstuck 5mm from the end of the print!!!!!!
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Based on Daid's response, you will need to hand build the gcode or modify the gcode Cura generates by saving it.
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If you really want fine grain control, you can hand build the gcode to do what you want.
The primary gcode is:
G1 X<xpos> Y<ypos> Z<zpos> E<epos> F<feedrate>
where <xpos>, <ypos>, <zpos> and <epos> are the X, Y, Z and extruder coordinates and <feedrate> is the mm per minute.
So if you home the printer, you are a (0,0,0). If you wanted to draw a line to the opposite corner, you would do something like this sequence below (partially taking from the start code in the Start/End-GCode tab in Cura). However, first you need to figure out the extrusion amount.
If we go to close to the opposite corner to 200,200 then this will create a line that is 282.84mm long. The line will be .4mm wide and however high you make the layer but let's say .2mm. That means that 22.627mm3 of material will be needed. If you are using 2.85mm filament (not really sure what you are doing but let's start there), the area of the filament is 6.3794. So we divide the volume of material we need by the area of the filament and it will give us the length of filament to extrude or in this case, 3.5469mm
Note that for speed, Cura uses mm/s whereas gcode specifies it in mm/min.
; Draw a line from the home position (0,0) to the opposite corner (200, 200)
; at a height of 0.2mm and at the width of the nozzle (0.4mm) at a speed of
; 40mm/s
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
M190 S70 ;bed temperature
M109 S210 ;temperature line
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 Z0 X0 Y0 F9000 ; (0, 0, 0)
G1 Z0.2 F9000 ;move the platform down .2mm to (0, 0, 0.2) for a 0.2mm high line at the default speed.of 150mm/s
G1 Z0.2 X200 Y200 E3.5469 F2400 ; move to (200, 200, 0.2) making a line that is 282.84 mm long at 40mm/s
Place the above in a file with a .gcode extension and load with Cura. Set the temperature you desire and home the printer. The press print.
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Most likely, the UM1's power supply and the controller can't handle the addition of a heated bed.
I helped another UM1 owner set up one. You might find some useful information here:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6014-heated-bed-build-and-a-question-about-the-z-stage
Just to give you an idea. Most beds draw at least 10 amps. At 12V that is 120watts. The UM1's PS is 120watts for everything. And that doesn't consider that the UM1 board will overdrive the bed at 19V. At 19V it will draw about 300watts and 16amps and will probably be well over it's rating.
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Oh wait, if you are getting a single width line but the printer is printing on top of it again then (not next to it as I previously thought) --
Make sure the top/bottom thickness is the same as your layer thickness and then go into the Advance tab and set the first layer thickness to your layer thickness.
E3D All Metal Hotend for Ultimaker
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Do you have the 4.7k resistor on the board?
In looking at your second photo, you appear to have the signal side of the temp sensor input connected to one lead of the thermistor. The other lead of the thermistor appears to be connected to a resistor which is then connected to the other side of the temp sensor input which is ground.
If that is the case, it is incorrect.
The blue lead you have on the signal pin of the connector should connect to one side of the thermistor as it does currently. The black lead should go from the other lead of the thermistor to the ground pin where you have the second black lead connected.
However, you MUST have the 4.7k resistor soldered to the board in the R23 position.