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anon4321

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Everything posted by anon4321

  1. I'd recommend you use a different meter. I believe (could be wrong) that clamp meters tend to not read low currents very well. Or if you have spare wire to the circuit you want to measure, wrap as many turns as you can around the clamp. Then read the current and divide it by the number of turns. More is better, like 10 turns... That meter has a maximum current reading of 600A and you are trying to read current 2 orders of magnitude less. Otherwise, measure the resistance of the heater when cold and when hot and we can calculate the current. I don't own a UM with the new electronics s
  2. http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Printed-Logo-Engineered-from-2D-into-a-3D-Object/
  3. I think this is a pretty common operation so there is a lot of options.
  4. There is a lot of software out there that operates as a "3D printer host". When not printing from an SD card, the host must feed the g-code in a certain way with checksums and resends. As part of this stream, you can get the temperature info back. The head position can be implied from the g-code as it is sent. However, the accuracy of the g-code coordinates is limited by buffering done by the FW. If you send "go to 0,0,0", the printer may accept it immediately. Because you just sent 0,0,0, you report the head as 0,0,0, but the command might be bufferred and there may be som
  5. It might be best to begin with a model that is known to be OK. Not many models on youmagine but quite a few on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/search/page:7?q=auger&sa= Note that helices are difficult to print without support as no matter how you orient them, there will be challenging overhangs. The only way to avoid the overhangs is to split the helix in half down it's axis. Like this model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:605353 then assemble/glue the two halves together. If you are asking for help modelling your prototype, you need to tell us what software you are us
  6. Awesome overhangs though! If you don't find a loose pulley, although less likely, check that the steps per mm are the same for both X and Y.
  7. You should make it into a visible theremin so we can duplicate the Star Trek theme. Although, the truth is that the theme is not performed on a theremin....
  8. The results aren't the best but I think there is a lot if ideas here to be developed and improved:
  9. I think it will depend on where you source the replacement 2560 from... I don't think the chip comes with a bootloader from ATMEL. So places like Digikey and Mouser probably sell it blank. You would need a programmer. I think you have a couple options: Get a programmer and burn the BL yourself. Use another Arduino as a programmer and burn it yourself. Or buy a arduino mega 2560 r3 clone for as cheap as possible ensuring that the package type of the 2560 is the same as the one used on the motherboard and then desolder it and transfer it to your motherboard. Good overview of the BL up
  10. Although not a slicer, MeshMixer can do this, However, MeshMixer is a utility for manipulating STLs including repairing and the addition of these types of supports. Its not a slicer. So the workflow is open in Meshmixer, add supports, do any other things like auto orient for best printablility and then save as a new STL. Then load in a slicer like Cura and examine the layers to see if the support is going to print correctly. If not reopen and meshmixer and repeat. So not the easiest but it will do it... http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html
  11. Once soldered correctl,y they are plug in compatible. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11571-step-by-step-installation-of-silentstepstick-drivers-on-umo
  12. If you don't want to get into the modelling aspect which might be a little advanced for the age range, search https://www.youmagine.com/for toys and such. Keep in mind that smaller is better since if they print gets messed up, you don't lose too much time and small prints also print faster. For some younger family members, one in the range you mentioned and one just slightly older, to show them the printer, I printed an UM robot https://www.youmagine.com/designs/official-ultimaker-robot and for the younger one, a braclet with her name (thingiverse is not well liked by us due to some shady
  13. Oh, sorry. I forgot they are shipping with the UM2 board. I have an older UM1 with the UM1 specific version. Do what electromu suggested and switch the they cables between two steppers.
  14. Hmmm, that is a good thought. I vaguely remember the FW having a bit of a weird behavior if an endstop is triggered by you keep trying to feed in that directions. It's worth check that too. Check that the Z endstops connectors are in good working order. Then swap them with another axis.
  15. Thee first thing to check is the connector for the Z axis motor. Unplug it and examine the pins and leads. Check the pins on the PCB too. There is little risk in doing this. Next, this is more risky. In the stepper drivers there is a small screw that is a potentiometer that sets the current the driver delivers to the stepper. Do this: power off and unplug the printer, using a small preferably plastic screw driver, very gently turn the screw a very small amount like 1/32th of a revolution. Now put the cooling cover back on, power on and test. If it is not any better repeat.
  16. BTW, meant to add that the reason I don't like to use the SD Card method is multiple iterations of a print means swapping the SD card back and forth. Yeah, I'm lazy.... Also automated production using a UM2.... Obviously this only works for some models. I couldn't find it but there is a video of Ultimaker using something like this to print UM robots to give out at trade shows....
  17. I understand that the reason people ask about what the poster wants to do is so they can provide a better solution to what the original poster is requesting. However, sometimes is also good to just answer the questions directly. If you want to print directly from the computer over the USB to a UM2, I believe you can. The issue is the UM2 firmware has limited buffer space so any interruption in the data transmission may cause issues as the head "stalls" (buffer underrun while waiting for more gcode over the USB connecion). This is more likely with a PC that isn't completely idle. NOTE:
  18. Jonny, Thanks for taking the time to reply with such great information. I'll have to read it a couple times until I understand it! I'm looking at the ATMEL part just because it is the same part in the Arduino Zero so I have a reference for both the electronics as well as the bootloader. It's less then $2 USD so for one offs, it's reasonable. I really wish I had stayed with the hardware/electronics side of my schooling. So much more interesting than software. Thanks again.
  19. Ahhh, that makes perfect sense with what I have been reading about mixed digital and analog supplies. The SAMD21 Cortex M0 isn't that expensive and seems to be a pretty good MCU. But I have to bother you with more stupid questions... Most of the eval boards and the Arduino Zero are using a 32.768khz crystal so I figure I will do the same. I'm having difficult understanding the datasheet and the various ways of calculating the load capacitance. The datasheet: http://www.atmel.com/images/atmel-42181-sam-d21_datasheet.pdf page 1093 states these characteristics: Cl - 12.5 pf
  20. Unfortunately, you can't simply adjust the layer height or the filament size on the UM1 gcode because the UM1 uses linear Z feed amounts. The linear amounts must be calculated based on the layer height and filament diameter. So the layer height and filament diameter becomes "baked in" to the feed amounts. If you want to say double the layer height, you need to double ALL the Z feeds (assume they reset the feed position to 0). Same thing if your filament diameter is significantly off of the value in the script by some percent.
  21. I did the heated bed upgrade on a self assembled UMO. I don't relevel for every print. You can just adjust the temperature to your liking. The one issue with the gcode files are they are for a fixed first layer size and a fixed filament size. For the most part they will work OK. However, if you filament size is thicker or thinner you might not get the best results. However, they should help you level the bed.
  22. You need to know how to use python to run the scripts that generate the gcode for the rings. There are two gcode files, one for the UM1 and another for the UM2. Download the correct one ending in .gcode here: https://github.com/markdeklerk/UltimakerUtils/tree/712ca4432df42e686d093931bc2c515927c6e630 The .gcode flles can be printed directly from an SD card. If you wanted a different number of circles or a different layer height or size, you would need to modify the correct .py file and run it with Python.
  23. You might find this helpful. It is python code that outputs gcode that prints circles around the edge. Very helpful for dialing in the leveling as it is printing. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/6951-calibration-utility-leveling-ringsgcode
  24. LOL, well at least my research was good enough to arrive at the same conclusion you did. Cortex M0 is a lot of power for controlling the printhead... Two questions: (Edit: please ignore the first question! Misread the datasheet!) Why a 4.02K instead of 1K per the datasheet? What is the purpose of the 470 ohm resistor on the analog supply?
  25. Oh, OK... you are looking at the thin film type. I was searching for one encased like the UM1 thermocouple. Haven't found one of the right size. And yeah, they are like 30-40USD. I was eyeing the thin film ones too. I'm thinking about either using a brass strip with screws tapped into the heater block to hold it or slitting the block and then have a single tapped hole that can squeeze enough to hold the sensor. Sort of like the way E3D holds the heater. The nice thing about the thin film ones is they have almost no thermal mass so the response time is much better. I'm also consider
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