ataraxis
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Posts posted by ataraxis
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Have you checked the jumpers on the Mainboard? If you don't know what I'm talking about: Take a picture of the Mainboard (without the fan) and upload it here.
If yes, on the UltiController go to: Control -> Motion -> Z-Steps/mm
Whats the value and do you have a heated bed?
Does this also happen when you print the file that is shipped with cura?
(you find it in 'C:\Program Files\Cura_x.x.x\resources\example\')
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Hey,
I had a hard time fixing my extrusion problems. It works now, but for the future I created a flowchart.
It is - for sure - not complete and not perfect (endless loops, inconsistent structure etc.), but I think it may help some beginnners. I would also appreciate it, if someone contributes a bit of his/her experience to complete/extend/unbug the chart
Cheers!
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hi!
i am working on a double driven extruder as mentioned here:
i will update this thread from time to time, this is my first model:
some information to understand the picture/model:
all the components (gears, pulleys,...) are fixed on the shafts.
every shaft rotates in an ball bearing, except the rightmost one, this is the one from the stepper motor.
the timing belt will be tensioned by an jockey pulley - this allows you to change the the distance between the two drive gears (e.g. for flexible filaments, 3mm filaments and so on).
so long... i'll be back
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wonderful, NOW it works
thank you for the fast reply! -
nope, it doesn't - the option "print with usb" is available but i get an "serial write time out" error everytime, also cura thinks i have a heated bed...
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it works with the new version, thanks
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and you pretty much get the same thing.
printrbot uses 1.75mm as far as I know, therefore it won't work I guess.
another problem: you can not adjust the force on the filament, that could be a problem for flexible filaments (as I heard, you should decrease the distance on the bondtech extruder for flexible filaments)
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yes you are right, i didn't thought about that - i will remove the spring (it's just a first approach) - thank you!. but I still don't like the idea of a variable distance between the axes of two gears... that's just not as it should be, right?
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the downsides of the bondtech are in my eyes:
- variable axis distance (WTF?!)
- no quick-release
- high price
the following is my first approach of a low-cost solution and uses only available parts, in theory it should be easy to release the filament too:
you can easily change the distance between the two driving gears because of the little tensioner gear.
please feel free to criticize!!!
- variable axis distance (WTF?!)
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OS: Win7
CURA: 15.06.01, will try it with the newest again if the download works
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btw: why do they use a gearbox at the stepper?
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unfortunately the kit's do no include the stepper motor if I am right?!
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you are right but it's expensive compared to other "selfmade"-solutions and anyhow: it is a lot of money for something that - maybe - doen't work as good as expected.
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Hi everyone!
I still have some problems with grinding/slipping filaments sometimes (especially if the infill speed differs too much from the wall speed), therefore I searched the internet for an alternative and found the BondTech Extruder/Feeder.
It's relatively expensive (aprox. 180€) - therefore I am looking for someone who already tried it at an Ultimaker.
Cheers!
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The title says it all: CURA (in the version 15.06.x) does not offer the "print" button when
I connect my UMO - in CURA 15.04.x it works! Any ideas?
Thanks!
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Nice done Lars and thank you for sharing!
Can you upload some real pictures maybe? Thank you
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well there are two plates, one is mounted to the case the other one is for the feeder, they are seperated with the silencers. take a look here:
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I also did that at first (since my rods are also direct driven) but some of the downsides are (in my eyes):
- you lose another side to which you can flip the ultimaker when you need access to the electronics
- it requires direct driven rods
- the entry angle of the filament
- it's more noisy than the damped version on the outside
- the bowden tube is maybe a bit too short since the distance between feeder and hotend is longer
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whats about dual extrusion?
I also thought about possible solutions then:
- to mirror the feeder design and flatten the protruding side a bit
- well, I like the direct driven rods...
- design some filament guides like for the UM2
- it should be possible to integrate dampers to the mounting plate
- i didn't really faced problems here, but a longer tube should fix that
- you could maybe drill a new hole or something like that but i always like the possibility to change everything back "as it was" (i.e. if you realize that a design doesnt work as it should). I didn't found a good solution and that's the reason why i did the design above
furthermore you say the quality is still "good" with the original stepper...
i also thought like that at first but then, while printing really high quality prints (0.6 layer height at around 30mm/s), i recognized a "rough" surface. Some of the developers of Ultimaker confirmed that in an google-group discussion. To avoid problems in the future i would really recommend an 0.9° stepper (or maybe one of foehnsturms trials here in the forum: flexible shaft/direct extruder at the printhead).
- you lose another side to which you can flip the ultimaker when you need access to the electronics
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I printed and installed them instantly when I saw your design on YM - I really recommend it to everyone
These are the dimensions i use now, i hope that helps someone (at least as a first orientation):
back: 35mm
front: 14mm
right: 19mm
left: 19mm
But... My rods are driven directly, therefore your back spacers may differ.
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According to the information on http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA the little switches definitely represent the jumpers MS1, MS2 and MS3.
Thus you have to do exactly the same as described in the first post, the only difference is that you don't remove a jumper but simply turn the switch off.
That means:
- First switch (that represents MS1) off (= state: "low")
- Second off (= state: "open")
- The third is irrelevant.
And... dont remove any pins.
- First switch (that represents MS1) off (= state: "low")
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Nice Johnny!!!
The TMC2130 is also very interesting!
Especially the stallGuard2 function - which offers new ways for sensorless homing
and e.g. an emergency shutdown and also the coolStep function which regulates the current according to the detected load.
stallGuard2 provides an accurate measurement of the load on the motor. It can be used for stalldetection as well as other uses at loads below those which stall the motor, such as coolStep loadadaptive current reduction. This gives more information on the drive allowing functions like sensorless homing and diagnostics of the drive mechanics.
coolStep drives the motor at the optimum current. It uses the stallGuard2 load measurement
information to adjust the motor current to the minimum amount required in the actual load situation. This saves energy and keeps the components cool.
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@dintid: you edited your last post many times and at the first it seemed like you are a bit upset about my answer. it's nearly impossible to write an instruction that fits the knowledge of everybody without being to precise for somebody that knows a bit about electronics.
I also tried to answer your questions as good as possible. you asked why we only remove the jumpers 1 and 2 at the UMO electronics,... the answer is: it just don't matter! you can remove the third or let it where it is. i cannot tell you why without using words like "open", "pulled down/up".
the funny thing is... what you did now is mixing my instruction with another one and what comes out is that you do things twice. you remove the pin and you remove the jumper,... it is not necessary!
you wrote - before you edited your post - that you don't know much about electronics, but why don't you trust us then? the instructions are the same on RAMPS as on the original electronics...
And sorry, but i really don't understand why you don't want to know WHY you have to do what you have to do. stay curious!
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Thanks! Ok, so to sum it up:
On RAMPS
1) I solder in all legs on both sides.
2) Remove all jumpers
3) Install the drivers
... whats about the heatsink and so on? sorry but why don't you ask tommy or tsp for help in danish if you still have problems with the instructions.
if you want to know something about the other settings, please read the datasheet
I don't know if USB power is enough, but I don't think so
but yes, you can set the current like this too if that works for you...
Prints coming out stretched
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted · Edited by Guest
Hum... gimme a second to check that (i have others installed).
EDIT: Looks right, Please ensure that the jumpers are working (especially MS1, if there is no connection between the MS1 pins, you run in 'quarter step'-mode - which would explane your mutated ultirobot
). Change the jumpers from the Z-Motor with two of the X/Y oder extruder to ensure it is not a jumper problem.
It's also possible that your stepper driver is broken, try to change the divers (X/Y <-> Z).
Your z-steps/mm are right.
Lets see if the problem is related to CURA...
Upload the following file to an SDCARD and print it with the Ulticontroller:
http://www.file-upload.net/download-10896764/worthy.gcode.html
Still streched?
- Auto home the hot end (ulticontroller -> prepare)
- move the z-axis 10mm downwards (prepare -> move axis)
- measure the distance and post it here.
P.S.: Where is the other heatsink? XD