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chrisr

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Posts posted by chrisr

    UM2 Hot end linear bearings. Play?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Just in case anyone else has this "issue" I replaced the hot end linear bearings and there is now no play in that assembly.

    As well, sliding the old bearings on the rods they felt a bit "rough" compared with their replacements so it's possible they got damaged. I don't know for sure but suspect that may be the case.

     

    Ultimaker2 Feeder System - Improvements and Ideas

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Stop reminding me I have to make a new version of the body for the eyelet that comes on the newest feeders. Nicolinux asked me to do it aaages ago and I still haven't gotten around to doing it :p I did start though, a few weeks ago, and then.. yeah... So, how was your day?

     

    :-P I just used these eyelets off eBay with a dab of superglue to hold them securely in place. They work great - the 4mm especially. No pressure :wink:

     

    Ultimaker2 Feeder System - Improvements and Ideas

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Here is my small improvement to Roberts Feeder.

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-iroberti-s-feeder-v6-yoke-and-hub-with-guide

    Based on the V6 feeder I have added a filament guide directly on the Yoke to reduce occurrence of the bearing sliding in front of the filament. I had that issue a lot with V4 and started having it again on long prints.

     

    Try with some metal eyelets in the feed path, works a treat: Picture shows 5mm, but 4mm (either side) works better - helps centralise the filament and low friction.

    Eyelet

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281051517245?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&var=580172730623&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

     

    Best procedure for leveling the bed.

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Here's how we level all the beds on the printers we produce in Memphis:

    The first thing to do is to make sure that all of your springs are reasonably tight. If they aren't, it's impossible to find the right height with a single sheet of paper, because the tension on the springs is minimal until they're compressed a bit. So, look through the bed from front to back, and adjust the back thumbscrew until the terminal block in the back left corner is about 1mm from touching the lower plate. Tighten the front screws about the same amount, to keep the bed roughly level as a starting point.

    Then heat the nozzle and make sure it is clean at the tip.

    Now run the leveling wizard again. When adjusting the rear height, just use the dial on the front of the printer. When adjusting the front corners, use the thumbscrews. I recommend not using the 1mm-then-a-paper-thickness approach. Instead, on both passes level the bed to the point where the nozzle just touches the glass. This is easy to see if you look along the surface of the glass; you can see the nozzle touch its own reflection.

    When setting each point, move the bed up until it just touches the nozzle tip, then back it off and allow it to settle untouched, and then gently close the gap again.

    If you find that you cannot compress the front springs enough to get the bed down to where it needs to be, then simply raise the back of the bed a few turns of the thumbscrew, and restart the leveling wizard. You want to end up with all the springs in a middle position, with a gap of about 10-13mm between the two plates of the bed assembly. The springs should be neither totally compressed, nor so loose that they aren't applying any meaningful upward force on the bed.

    By doing two passes at the same height you should get fewer surprises; the second pass around should only require very minor adjustments. And aiming for the point where the nozzle touches the glass is a much easier target than trying to interpret the feel of nozzle on paper.

    This will leave the nozzle about 0.1mm too close to the bed (the assumed paper thickness). This is very rarely a problem, if you print with a 0.2 or 0.3 first layer, and helps to ensure good adhesion.

     

    This works superbly and is a lot easier than the paper method. You can also hear a change in pitch (of all things resonant) when the nozzle touches the plate. :-) Thanks illuminarnti.

     

    New improvements in the making

    in UltiMaker.com

    Posted

    SandervG. Just keep the forum as it is. It works fine and doesn't need additional effort spent on "encouragement" with badges etc.,

    Instead, for the time being why not concentrate your efforts first on things that really matter... improving the packaging of the printer (which frankly is dire) and is a source of many problems for the end user (myself included)... then, get yourselves up to speed with shipping and revise your shop costs for spares... these are all issues which come up regularly. Address those first and then you won't have to repeatedly be spending your time apologising to fed up customers and chasing purchase orders that haven't been fulfilled. Arguably these are more important issues that need your focus than fancying up the forums imho..

    Make sense? :smile:

     

    • Like 1

    Must have improvements you can print for your Ultimaker Original?

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    just did a thread in the Dutch portion, let me translate;

    ...

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-cable-chain

    fan mounts; i tried 2

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-mount-dual--2

    changed to this mount;

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fan-base-um2

    rail system: must have;

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-rail-system-u2rs

    cable clip for the railsystem

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/cableclip-for-ultimaker2-rails-system-u2rs

    Roberts Feeder with UltiArjan improvements.

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/feeder-for-ultimaker-2-rail-system

    you need this spool holder to add your spools to the rail system. you need two of these. printed in PLA and XT, worked perfect.

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/compact-low-friction-spool-holder

    OctoPrint:

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/raspberry-and-raspicam-mount-for-ultimaker-2

    in short, those are the add-ons you need in my opinion.. they will make a good printer great..

     

    That's a fine list, I'd also add:

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/loose-filament-holder-v3

    Which I'm finding really useful for loose filaments. I've made a mount for this. It positions the holder off to one side away from the Bowden cable. (I have the extra long arms fitted for faberdashery filament)

    CR Mount

    CR Mount2

     

    Maybe we could have a separate thread for UM2 improvements? Mods please feel free to delete/move this if that's the case - or OP if you wish it :smile:

     

    Teflon spacer replacement

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    When you machined the Duratron or had the parts machined, did you use the dimensions of the coupler from here:

    https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1309_PTFE_Isolator_Coupler_3.2_mm_%28x1%29

    Or did you modify it slightly?

     

    UM2 Hot end linear bearings. Play?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    HI all.

    I've noticed there's a small amount of play in my UM2's hot end linear bearings.

    There's a faint but noticable "tick tick" when I rock the head to and fro and side to side. I can't work out if the play is between the bearing and the plastic housing or within the bearing itself. Recently I did some prints with XT and the head spent a lot of time thumping into blobs on the fill.... :???:

    Question:

    Is this play normal? Or should I be looking at sourcing a replacement set of linear bearings? In any case, does anyone know where I can buy these bearings from? (I can't see them in the shop)

    EDIT:

    Sourced the bearings after having phoned the shop. Too simple, no wonder I didn't think of it... :smile:

    Does anyone elses UM2 hot end also have a little side to side (& to and fro) play in it?

     

    Using new ColorFabb XT Transparent PLA

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    From my experience, white and red needs more attention to print as for other colors.

    Hmmm, so if I'm reading it right the nozzle cools off when the fan speed is higher then 40%, that could be an issue.

    The flow direction of the outlets are aimed a bit on the nozzle then.

    Did a little test on my UMO just now, when I prime my nozzle at 240C with XT, and blow a fan onto the nozzle, the XT curls upwards and sticks to the nozzle.

    I use this fan mount on my UMO for XT:

     

     

    It blows air 30 degrees toward the nozzle and straight down.

    Did the same test as above, now with the fan I normally use set at full speed, primed the nozzle again with XT at 240C, it doesn't curl.

     

    Now that's interesting! :smile:

    The ZETOFF angles the airflow very much directly towards and @ the nozzle area. I wonder if that's "just not helping things" edge curling wise for XT. With PLA it works very well... now you've got me thinking Harold!

    I will next try -

    1). Replacing the stock UM2 fan shroud.

    2). Some transparent XT from colorfabb

    Determined to get prints looking as good as yours with XT ;-)

     

    Travel retract?

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Update:

    Dim3nsioneer.... +1 I think you may have solved the blob problem. You lovely lovely person.

    The fill looked hugely better with no blobs. I've still to re-try the print that was giving me real problems and as I don't wish to tempt fate... I'm going to just shut up about it until it's printed.... :-)

     

    Travel retract?

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Do this, but don't blame me if the print fails... :wacko: Good luck!

     

    I won't ;-) I'm just very grateful for your pointer :-) I've been having lots of problems with XT blobbing. Hopefully this will go some way to prevent that. Thanks!

     

    Travel retract?

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Have you enabled combing (expert settings)? If yes, disable it and use reasonable numbers for minimum travel distance before retraction and minimum extrusion amount... I use 5mm for the first and 0 for the second.

    If you get blobs on top then avoid z-hopping.

     

    Yes I had combing enabled. Damn! If disabling combing is the solution, then that's fantastic! :-) I shall try your settings shortly on my next print.

     

    Travel retract?

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Is there a way to have Cura force a retract before it travels the head? Reason being my UM2 is getting hammered printing colorfabb's XT...

    The travel leaves "blobs" on fills, which then solidify. The next time the head travels over those blobs it smacks into them and rattles the bed :shock:

    Maybe it's an XT issue - I donlt know, I just can't seem to prevent it "blobbing" No such problems with PLA.

     

    Using new ColorFabb XT Transparent PLA

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    I just received an XT sample pack and it seems as if the colored XT is really printing a little different. I usually printed at 240-247°C, 0.2mm layers at 50 mm/s and had perfect adhesion to the bed between 70-80°C.

    The only thing that really gives me a headache is the retraction, I used the standard settings and the recommended settings from ColorFabb. Usually I get hard spots that haven't melted all the way and stick upwards. When the nozzle passes these areas the entire build platform wobbles and printing on these won't produce a nice print either. I usually printed with 100% fan since that was ok for most of my prints. I was actually able to bridge 40 mm without any problems.

    I don't use Cura but Simplify3D instead, don't know if that matters at all.

     

    Yes, that's exactly one of the problems I'm having with white XT. Hard blobs on

    the print with the head then thumping into them. Bits then get spread/smeared

    around and the plate wobbles when they're hit, which doesn't help the area where the head moves to next. My finger at this point is usually (anxiously) hovering over "abort print" :shock:

    My main problems with (white) XT seem to be two. Overhangs and fill.

    For fill: anything that isn't either hollow or 100% produces blobs especially on larger areas with percentage fill.

    For overhangs: The edges curl up, which then makes the surface rough underneath as the head passes over re-melting the area, pushing it down. It may then smear and spread a new blob somewhere else...

    PLA is so much nicer (and forgiving) to print with than this material. :sad:

    But. I'm after the improved heat resistance, which is why I'm still struggling on. Although a roll of ABS did arrive in the post today... and I've been eyeing

    up Nylons as well... both probably an introduction into a whole new world of pain.

    On retraction, I'm using 45mm/s length 4.5mm. I found that above 245c or so the

    retraction settings by themselves didn't seem to make a huge difference. They

    improved things but didn't get rid of the stringing and blobbing completely.

    For stringing and blobbing to minimise, slow and cool helped, but that didn't

    get rid of the edge curl I'm always seeing. Fans on or not.

    I'm starting to wonder whether the clear (transparent) XT may be easier to print

    with than coloured versions. If that's so, then it's a step in the right direction. I've had problems with white before. Could it be that particular dye?

    I think the "sweet spot" for white XT may perhaps be very narrow for it to print nicely. Trouble being, I haven't found what those settings are. But I suspect they are very fine, and may be unique to each particular print?

    Now if someone can come up with the ease of PLA printing but with a material which has a much higher heat tolerance... :wink:

     

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