chrisr
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3D Prints
Posts posted by chrisr
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i'm happy...
It was not that difficult to learn.
The scanner is at iFabrica, where I give courses in 3d scanning and printing.
So if you want to use one, its possible here...
Thanks! :-)
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I have access to a David scanner. It is a pity that the comparison did not include the David, because they would be similar to each other I guess. All the other scanner are in a different class, in price and quality.
It looks like the Next uses a laser line, and the David uses a beamer pattern to gain the objects surface.
The size is the scanned object for the David goes up to something like 75 cm per scan, could be a bit more. This is limited by the power of the beamer pattern for a bigger distance.
The rotating platform of the Next looks good.
Quality looks the same, I scanned a key and printed it. After a little adjusting, it worked!
That's pretty impressive, thanks for posting the photos up PeggyB. :smile: From what you say I'm guessing you're pretty happy with the David system? Are you using the 1 version or the 2 ?
I'm getting the impression the support for the David system is quite good.
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Recently found myself looking at 3D scanners suitable for small (inanimate) objects < 0.25 meters square max. Looking for good resolution of ~ 0.1mm or better?
I've no idea of the pros and cons of the various scanning techniques... but two seem quite interesting so far -
Has anyone any practical experience of either of these ?
The David SL-2 scanner:
or the Next Engine system:
If so, how did you get along with them? Any thoughts, opinions most welcome! :-)
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Having just upgraded to 14.09 I can confirm that setting the machine settings manually works flawlessly.
For me those settings were COM4 and 9600 baud.
The default "Auto" settings fail every time with the "timeout" error.
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Ex-Balham here and before you do - please don't say 'gateway to the south' ;-) now in sunny Gloucestershire. Welcome!
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I have 2 more months of trial.. then I know if I have my job or not.... I hate the wait... im working like a lunatic to get everything done on time and make everyone happy... but im running out of steam now... sleeping 9 and 10 hours every day... working...
Careful, you'll set a precedent and then they'll expect that pace ;-)
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I'd say it depends on what you sell it with and in what condition it is.
Roughly i would say you can sell it close to the initial price
If you sell it close to the original price I'd personally pay the extra and buy a new UM2 with warranty etc., I guess it depends on the definition of "close" :-)
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I've been using one of those "micro fiber" cloths marketed for cleaning camera lenses (and spectacles) on my UM2 glass bed before and after every print. The one I have is branded by Pentax but there are many others like it.
They are superb for removing any traces of grease and other dirt.
I'm finding the prints "vacuum bond" to the glass each time. Never had to use any glue!
Thought I'd share. It works for me :mrgreen:
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So I've been writing a little bit again and figured I'd share it with you guys. This isn't an end all, be all guide for good prints, not even close. Considering how many variables are involved it never could be IMHO. But I think it could be of at least some help to some of you out there who are getting started with 3D printing.
Consider these as tips, not absolute truths
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
Extremely useful guides. Downloaded and printed out for reference. Perhaps they could be made into "stickies" ?
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I had a hell of a time getting my old laptop to connect to printers to update firmware. Sometimes it worked on the second try, sometimes on the tenth... When I manually changed the port in Machine -> Machine settings it always worked fine. I've only tried one machine on my new laptop and on that it worked first try without manually specifying a port. It seems a bit random.
Ah! Interesting..... I hadn't looked at those settings, the default for both on my machine was set to "Auto" - that's worth knowing about :cool: I'll try setting them manually next time. Thanks.
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Ok, after trying to update the default firmware one last time (using Cura 14.07 as before) it actually did it.
Why? I have no idea. What did I do differently? - I have no idea. It just "decided to work" :shock:
I'm now going to test the printer and see if it is working properly.....
EDIT.
Yup upgraded to 14.07 and now printing just fine. I would dearly like to know why update firmware was so very flaky. Was there an issue in 14.01.02 ?
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Ok, thanks Dim3nsioneer.
From device manager I see an Arduino Mega 2560 on COM4
9600 baud, N,8,1 no flow control. (These are the default settings assigned)
Can someone confirm these are the correct baud/parity/data bit settings which the UM2 expects to see?
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I've tried all four USB ports on my laptop and as well all two USB ports on my main pc. I've also tried three different USB cables.... all with the same "Timeout" error.
The UM2 has always printed from the SD card. I'm not using/never have used printrun/pronterface. What is printrun/pronterface and will it help?
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Ok, I've tried three different USB cables including the one which came with the UM2 and each time I get the "Timeout" message.
Worse.... it seems the existing firmware is now corrupt as the machine will no longer print..... :mad:
Within the Cura folder \resources\firmware\ there are several .hex files, each prefixed by marlin though.... I'm tempted to try one of these but have no idea which if any of them, are the correct ones for the UM2 ?
Question:
What do I need to do in order to get this machine to update it's firmware ?
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Having same error here:
Failed to write firmware "Timeout"
I'm not using a USB extension, I'm running the USB cable straight from my laptop to the UM2
UM2 current firmware is 14.01.02
Any ideas ?
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under materials setting you can enter your own settings and save it this will be used then during all your prints
Brilliant! Thanks for that. I shall investigate :-)
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I'm not getting any of those problems with it. Could you have a faulty temp sensor?
Thought did cross my mind, but the readings always appear stable and whatever I set the temperature to tallies with what is "read back" Silver prints just fine.... could I have a dodgy reel of the white stuff ??
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White PLA from Ultimaker? Personally I've found it to be my most reliable (least fussy) filament of late. I'm printing at the default temp - 210C I think.
210C really? That causes it to first of all run, then bubble and spit for me. I had to lower the temperature. 190C seems to give me the "best" prints so far. The label is Ultimaker 2.85mm white (9016-Z1C-A) (on a side note I wish I could get the UM to stay at 190C it always defaults back to 210C which is a right royal pain)
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I was previously using silver PLA on the default UM2 print settings with great results.
White PLA seems to be altogether more "fussy" - strings, blobs and pillowing all in evidence on my last print. Changing the nozzle temperature to 190C helped a lot as well as setting the wall thickness to 1.2mm and the print quality to high quality print.
The results still aren't anywhere near as good as with silver (both PLA are from UM and of similair age (~3 months)/storage conditions etc.,)
Has anyone else found white PLA "more fussy" to print with than silver for instance?
If so, any tips? Cheers!
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Cura 14.07, Ultimaker2.
Ultimaker2 -
Is there a way to make the UM2 store my previous (nozzle) temperature setting? Currently it always defaults to 210C each time I use the machine. (I'm using white PLA and find 190C works better - so I have to manually tweak this each time I print)
Cura 14.07 -
There is a speed and temperature panel in Cura. But only speed is adjustable.
Where is the temperature setting?
Kind regards,
Chris
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Thank you! :grin:
Lubrication?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Oldish thread, apologies for reviving, but I couldn't find anything more recent.
For the X and Y axis rods -
I was wondering if a dry lubricant (Molybedenum disulphide based) may be a good alternative to sewing machine oil? (Reasoning being that any oil is eventually going to attract dust and other detritus = a nice grinding paste)
There's several Gun based formulations I've come across, one I've used with success on my target rifles is this stuff:
http://www.hoppes.com/gun-oils/dri-lube
so long as you're prepared to polish it after application (Bit like applying car polish in that respect)
Has anyone tried any dry lubes ? Results ?
Incidentally... I'd advise against using WD40 as a lubricant - it isn't - once the carriers evaporate you're left with a nasty sticky goo. :smile: