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Posts posted by chrisr
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Though I like the idea, I'm afraid that you simply loose to much strength due to your wall thickness being cut away :(
Print it solid ?
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Wonder if I could get commission... :grin:
Nah. Probably not, just that nice warm glowing fuzzy feeling you done good ;-)
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Happy Christmas to you Skint! :-)
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My way's cheaper. And I get 9 sets!
Just received a pack of these, they work a treat! Awesome find shiremog :-)
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Not an answer why there's no support showing there, but as the top surface looks flat, could you not just flip your object over to print it?
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The same supplier I got mine from :wink: They must be wondering why there's a rush on their 4mm eyelets :smile:
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Been thinking a lot and experimenting with the feeder design recently.
Imho you really want just a metal eyelet in contact with the filament where the filament enters the feeder body and nothing else. Preferably no more than 4mm internal diameter to help guide the filament and prevent any chance of it "wandering"
This (metal) eyelet needs to be as close as can be to the hobbed gear and the pressure wheel. As that (in the experiments I've been doing) obviates any need for any additional guides which imho just add extra friction and wear. PLA/ABS/XT on PLA/ABS/XT surface to surface is a recipe for wear.
I'm trialling my own version of Roberts great design, as there's several other features of that design I'm not happy with
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Takes a look at the values entered in different fields the past 6 months. Spots a view good ones, like "q" for layer height. "M105" for temperature, and "slow" for shell thickness.
I don't have to assume it. I even have data to back it up!
Seriously? Can we have clarification on whether this is Ultimakers official company view please?
Bot provided some valuable feedback from the perspective of a user for you.
Daid, you may have made Cura by yourself originally for yourself and it's a really great bit of work, but you're now an employee(?) of Ultimaker. This manner of response won't generate positive publicity. It sadly reminded me of "doing a Ratner" For those unfamiliar with who he is and what he said, Google his name or check this link. :sad:
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/1573380/Doing-a-Ratner-and-other-famous-gaffes.html
As an Ultimaker customer, soon to order a second UM2, I'd also quite like to see an opt-out "suspend auto-slice" tick box in Cura for the reasons already stated. Other than that, I think Cura is an excellent piece of software and firmly remains my slicer of choice. :smile:
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Nice idea! :smile:
Here's a few I found particularly useful.
There's a very good cylinder torture test, forum thread here: (you need to print it at 230C)
This little object is quite useful as well: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/hollower-calibration-pyramid
And there's also the little UM robot which came on the SD card supplied with your UM2. The overhangs, ears and antenna are good for gauging printer adjustments to get them nice looking. (It is a tricky print to get right)
:smile:
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I can upload the .stl if anyone might want to try it. Just finished illuminarti's tower torture test with no problems.
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I like the use of the butterfly screw on the spring tension. Can you twist it easily while installed or is it touching the wall?
You can easily twist it as the whole assembly sits proud off the printer body on the nuts (and washers) which hold the stepper in place.
Assembly is: stepper, stud, washer, nut, washer, feeder, washer, wingnut.
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From what I could see the tube pretty much stays put. I made the internal chamfer (for the bowden clamping piece) in the feeder body deliberately on the "tight" side - so when you put the blue locking collar in place everything is tight with no movement.
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Did you consider cutting the bowden tube in V shape to get it even closer to the wheel?
Good idea! I hadn't, that would get it pretty close.
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Made my own version of the body of iRobertl feeder. It has a 4mm metal eyelet and the bowden is as close as I could get it to the hobbed wheel. Tightened tolerances for arm and latch. They are now as tight as can be to prevent the pressure wheel from moving about (which it was inclined to do before)
Uses iRobertl's arm, latch and yoke.
Edit: Also used studs with nuts to hold the stepper in place. Wing nuts make it quick to remove the whole assembly.
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Ah. I'll try 14.09, I was using 14.07 for some reason & I forget why... (something about retractions?)
Perhaps the "kick" duration needs to be made just a little bit longer then to get the fans reliably started? They will spin at 10% quite happily (on my UM2) but just need encouragement to get going. Perhaps the "kick" time just needs to be extended by a little bit? 2 or 3 seconds perhaps?
Edit: 14.09, 14.11 no different
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These are the settings I have. Currently my PLA success rate is close to 100%
I'm using faberdashery PLA, loosely coiled. Mounted on a spool off to one side on my UM2. Loose filament better fits the curve of the bowden, lowering friction...
Bed temperature 57C
Nozzle 215C
Fans variable ~ 20% to 40% once the first 3mm or so have been printed.
Bed levelling using Illuminartis method (ignore the piece of paper way, it's seriously inaccurate) those first
layers need to be really squished onto the glass plate for good adhesion.
Most general parts printed at 0.1mm, 50mm/s, usually 100% fill. Combing off - to avoid "blobs"
Retraction 4mm, speed 35mm/s
UM's (Bas) updated stock UM2 feeder (with the metal grommet) works exceedingly well, recently I'm using a modded version of Irobertl's feeder but with a metal grommet I've added into the feed path to really lower friction. No need for anything else in the filament feed path there (imho)
Atomic method every now and again to clean the nozzle. I use 3mm ABS for this. Heat to 240C, while pushing through, cool till solid, heat up while pulling. If gunk, repeat. Tried the cleaning material, not so impressed with it...
Glass bed as clean as I can get it and with no glue. I use a camera lens cleaning cloth to get it literally "squeaky clean"
These are the general settings for PLA I've found work really well. But you may need to "tweak" settings per print slightly for say a very small print, or if you have overhangs, spans or other stuff to get the very best results.
As it stands the UM2 (imho) rocks as a printer. I personally am planning on buying another in the near future! :smile:
Edit - Clarity
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At small fan speeds like 20%, the fans won't start at that %
If I give them a little encouragement (with my finger) they'll spin up and then stay turning.
Or, I'll very briefly dial them in the UM2 tune menu to 40% as a "kick" to get them turning and then drop back to 20% where they happily keep going.
Suggestion:
Could Cura incorporate a very brief power "kick" to get low fan speeds reliably started?
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I've not heard of lost pla casting. I'll have to look into that.
Do a search on youtube ;-)
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No movement on my end.
Thanks for checking.
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Perhaps not the same method used by shiremog, but interesting enough all the same ;-) http://3dtopo.com/lostPLA/
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Yes and I used 100% fan at 1mm.
Also zip hop 0.08 to help reduce vibrations. Retraction at max speed and acceleration is 1500.
Superb! Thanks for the heads up :-) Will try the same. I often use the little robot as a test :-)
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Layer Height: 0.1
Shell Thickness: 1.6
Speed: 30mm/s
Temp: 190
Bed: 50
Can I ask what fan speed you had set? And you used Venkel's shroud ?
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Basic steps are "customize" then change the settings for pla then "save" then select "pla". That last step I never quite understood at first.
You don't need to overwrite the default PLA setting, there is an option to save the new settings as a completely separate entry.
Edit: My print just finished. Menu item is:
Material/Settings/Customise and then "Store as preset" :smile:
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I have been printing large models of bones. The prints have been failing due to failure of the print to stay stuck to the heated plate (UM2). I have wondered if this is partly to do with keeping the UM2 in a room with the heating on low so that the room is rather cool. Anyhow, I increased the bed temp to 70 degrees and the print came out perfectly (showing the fracture nicely)
Is there a way to make the default bed temp anything other than 60 degrees to avoid having to tune every print??
Thanks
MM
You can save a custom material profile in the UM2 machine with things like bed temp, nozzle temp and other settings. You do this in the menu from I think the materials setting (then choose customise or something similair?) I'd check for you but my UM2 is in the middle of a long print right now.
My order information disappeared
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
Posted
Same here. My order placed and paid for on 5th December (paypal transaction ID https://www.paypal.com/uk/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_view-a-trans&id=67K814409R768570U) for (I think it was ) a bowden tube has also vanished :sad:
Does Ultimaker now not have a record of this order?????
Ultimaker
Item Number R137721636-19110 €37.61 EUR 1 €37.61 EUR