solid-print-3d
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Posts posted by solid-print-3d
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Hey, to each his own. If a wood chisel works, and you're comfortable using, go for it. I'm just saying that a razor blade is not a terrible idea. I've actually never cut myself with a razor blade removing parts, and I don't expect I ever will. Sounds like you've just had some bad experiences with razor blades
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What feeder are you using? The stock feeders lightest setting is pretty tight. If you're a hands on kinda guy, you can try printing your own feeder and going lighter on the spring tension. Helped for me anyways.
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Try the wood chisel, nothing beats it. A razor blade is a terrible idea, you don't want something that bends - and if it breaks you'll very much regret it.
Believe me, the perfect tool is a robust hand tool purposely designed to cut or separate things under a bit of pressure while keeping you safe, and includes a convenient handle to grip with. That describes a wood chisel, not a razor blade. Yes, you do need to get off your lazy ass, get down to the hardware store and buy one, but it's worth it.
It has to be a broad chisel to distribute the force, otherwise you could mark the part. I find 40-50mm just about perfect.
Don't use a kitchen knife either. You want a narrower cutting edge that you push away from yourself like a snow shovel.
Funny, cuz I think a wood chisel ( or any chisel in that size range) is a terrible idea. The pitch of the edge is too steep. It is too durable, meaning it will not give, so either the part has to give or the glass has to give, and if the glass gives, it breaks. Also, due to its edge, you are more likely to scratch the glass. Sure, it will probably work, but it's like using a sledge hammer to drive a finishing nail. You want to finesse the part off the glass, not take large hard steel tools to the glass.
Razor blades can break, yes. I don't know about you, but I want the razor blade to be the weakest link in the process. If I do something wrong, and the razor blade breaks, that's fine. How many times do you think you'll EVER break a chisel trying to get a part off? None. That's becasue it loads all of the energy to the glass and the part.
If you are breaking razor blades, you are using them wrong. They are not meant to pry up on the part, they are a very thin tool used to slide in between to the part and the glass, and at near parallel angles to the glass. If the razor blade feels like it's stuck, don't pull up on it, grab another razor blade and distribute the force around the part. I'll take a razor blade over a chisel any day.
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Yes, it does take a good amount of force to open those clips. I haven't had to resort to using a screwdriver, but I have cut my hand on them when pulling them open.
If I tighten the clips, will that have any impact on my buildplate level? Currently I have it leveled almost perfectly (when it's not being ejected from the printer).
If it were me, I'd be more concerned with my freaking plate coming off in the middle of the night than whether or not I had to recalibrate the bed
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MAN! That bad boy was STUCK! I have an awesome fool-proof idea for the next time this happens...
Here it is
Warm oven to 220 C. Place build plate in oven. Kiss project goodbye. Works like a charm... at least in theory. Not crazy enough to actually TRY it.
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Yeah, that's ashamed, only a couple of days to go, and still way short of their goal. That $215 pledge is a good deal, $18 a roll with free shipping! Plus all the bragging rights you get having the newest and baddest filament on the market?
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Retraction nightmare!
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Dude (or Dudette)...one word...RAZOR BLADE ... or is that two? Hold on let me google it... yeah two words unless you're talking about the song from Blue October, then it's one word
A plane-Jane, single edge razor blade, holding the model with one hand and prying the blade with the other, working towards you from the back side, pulling up on the model as you try to get it under a corner will do the trick 99% of the time (unless you're on blue tape, then that's a different story).
No scars no proof
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That's amazing. I've scraped towards myself with considerable force before trying to get a part to pop free from the backside. I've put a LOT of force on the glass and it's never budged.
Weird. Definitely a candidate for the hall of fails.
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Don't know, I'm so swamped all I had time to do was take the cover off and inspect the board for a loose connection or damaged wires. I did notice some brown circles forming on the white portion of the board, directly under the stepper controllers, but this may be normal? The motor itself runs warm, but not hot to the touch...I can keep my hand on it fine.
In any event, the guys at fbrc8 are going to send another board to see if that fixes the problem. My money is on that it will fix it. The motor is doing everything it's being told to do, it seems. Only thing left is some sort of electrical glitch on the board somewhere. Who knows...
Interesting that I'm running it at 900 mAh right now and it seems to be doing fine. I wonder if there's a reason the z is supposed to run at 1250 mAh default?
If I do get a replacement and it works, I will be adding some sort of cooling solution to the undercarriage, as I run these machines 24 hours a day every day, so I need them to perform at all times... a little cooling never hurt anybody. Might add a couple of decibels, but I guess that's the trade-off. I've also seen posts where people are adding aftermarket heat sinks to the stepper controllers. Might do that too since the board will be off anyways.
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@twistx, you said you replaced the bowden, but did you replace the teflon? I was having similar prints during my tests. Replaced the bowden and the teflon, and it prints sooooo much nicer now. I also use a different feeder. I had trouble with Roberts feeder (not saying anything bad about it, just didn't work that well for me). Like you, I polished the inside of the nozzle as well, for good measure.
Anyways, that's what worked for me...
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Haha I wish life was that simple, we are both not very good at that kind of stuff (but we are good at other stuff I promise!)
Plus I barely let him touch anything 3d printer related, this is MY baby, too scared he will break something (not that I trust myself more)
Uuuuuuuuuhhhh, OK
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So I finally managed to get the filament out, took about 1h, had to slowly ''hammer'' in another piece of filament on one side, pushing the other side out and then my boyfriend got it out with pliers. The issue is that the part stuck inside was obviously very deformed (probably the reason for the grinding?) It was way larger than the rest of the filament so it was really hard to move it in the bowden tube.
Tho the fan is still an issue, I really tried to put the wire back in his connector but the connection is still causing issue, the fan is going on and off all the time.
I have no clue how I can fix this issue, do I need to contact customer support?
Simple fix. Tell your boyfriend to fix it or he's in the doghouse. With the proper amount of persuasion, he'll become an electrical engineer overnight
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I never had much luck with the glue... I spray a little hairspray puddle on to a paper towel and spread it over the glass where the print is going to be. Every brand of hairspray works different I find. I'm using the $2 purple can now(Aqua Net) from the dollar store. I really like it becasue it actually dissolves previous prints hairspray, so it's always a new thin coat on the glass. Other brands had a build up affect. It also works just right, I can print with no brim, and a razor blade to get under one corner pops it free. I've tried several brands of hairspray, several brands of glue, and several brands of blue tape, but this purple Aqua Net is bar far the best. I think it's becasue it's so cheap...it's just the glue, and propellant...no anti friz crap, no perfumes...just glue.
My models often stick to blue tape so bad that I have to take an orbital sander to the parts to remove the blue tape. There is one brand of blue tape I have that I do not have that problem with, but I forget which one it is becasue I never labeled it and I have a stack of ten rolls of various brands
I've had a couple of really stuck prints along the way... I put a razor blade under one corner about 5 to 10 mm deep, then I bend the blade up and slide a spackle knife between the glass and the blade, and slide it under the part. Worked every time.
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I'm talking to Simon (illuminarti) about this. I've got it working now at 1000mAh, so I'm inclined to think somethings getting hot and failing at 1250 to 1300 mAh.
Hopefully the ultimaker guys have seen this before and know what it may be.
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Yeah, that's what it was alright, loose teflon. It's a brand new machine with only a couple of prints on it, so you'd think it would be nice and tight, but ah well...
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Glad to hear it twistx. I used paper, and it held fine for 5 days while I waited for my replacement, BUT, when I went to change it out, the paper was carbon! HAHA.
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Unless you have a dual extruder... :-|
But you could use the z hop feature anyway to avoid collisions...
I wish
Besides, I don't use the Z-Hop. I don't like the wear and tear on the brass nut from thousands and thousands of short jumps up and down...unless absolutely necessary. In this case, it's not necessary.
Also, I find that sometimes the Z-hop strings a little as it lifts and moves to the next piece, whereas no hop cleans itself off as it passes along the part to the next.
Anyways, that's just me
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Another quick Cura tip:
Picture this... you bring in a very small part. You multiply the part several times. Cura lays them out in a rectangular pattern
You get about 80% through the print, and pieces begin to get knocked over becasue the print head is skipping over parts and hitting the tops of the little pieces.
Here's a typical path the printer takes over a rectangular pattern of parts.
Not very optimal
Instead try to think outside the box... think circle
No more parts knocked over from the print head:)
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Update:
I've lowered the Z axis mAh to 1000mAh in the motion control menu on the UM2. So far so good. This is most likely just a band aid approach though.
My logic is that there may be some problem with the motor controller or motor so the reduced current may help some. It's about 6 hours into a 7 hour print and doing fine.
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Initial layer thickness must be set at least 0.01mm thicker than half of the layer height value otherwise Cura gonna skip the first layer (initial layer) completely.
If your layer high is for example 0.2mm then initial layer thickness must be at least 0.11mm
Layer high 0.25mm - initial layer thickness >0.13mm
Layer hight 0.1mm - initial layer thinckness >0.06mm
and so on ....
Awesome Info! Thanks for the share
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Since none of the big dogs have chimed in on this, I'm going to assume it's not one of those quick fixes. I just ruined my 6th 7 HR print becasue the Z stepper decided to jump down 20 layers instead of .2mm.
Opening a ticket...let you know how it goes.
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I think I found out what it was...
The steel collar used to tighten the heater block to the aluminum plate was loose, I mean LOOSE! I was getting read to pull my hair out, and while trying to level the bed, I saw a slight movement in the extruder nozzle. " I thought to myself "WHUUUUUT?!" There was a tiny gap between the teflon and the steel collar, so I overlooked it, but after tightening it down, the teflon moved up about 3mm, so yeah, it was loose.
I'm printing now, so we'll see if that's what it was...
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@twistx, thanks, but no...The screws are greased just fine.
Picture this - You've got a large part printing...probably takes 5 minutes just to do 1 layer. You're about 2 minutes into a layer, where the z screw should not be moving at all, and it starts to take on a mind of its own. It starts click every 2 seconds or so.
Now, the screw is nice and greased. It slides up and down smooth. It homes good, it prints good (otherwise).
From what I gather, the stepper motor always has current? Maybe there's an interruption in the current flow?
Crazy Stuck!
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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I used to want the parts to pop off when cooled. Now I don't. I want just a tad more adhesion to the glass, and that usually means popping it off manually. There may come a time when you have too many failed prints becasue the part broke free from the bed during print, and you find yourself feeling the same way.
To be honest, if you're having to use a wood chisel or razor blade with much force to remove a piece then you can probably back down on the adhesion value.
I'm about 30 prints into this can of Aqua Net hairspray (the purple, General Dollar Sore brand) , and like many others before me have stated, it's awesome. The part may not just pop off when done, but you certainly wont have to use freezer tricks. As a matter of fact, I've spent the past 2 days going through some production prints I do and removing custom brim for PLA prints to speed up post process time. It works so well, that I no longer need the brim, yet not so strong that I can't pop the pieces off with my hands or a razor blade (or chisel
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I guess it all comes down to what you're using your printer for and what you're printing.