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Everything posted by solid-print-3d

  1. Does anyone know the correct steps per mm to set the UMO+ to if you're using the UM2 style setup extruder motor? Basically, I bought a stock knurled wheel and mounted the UMO's feeder motor in the same spot the UM2 motor is in, along with a UM2 style feeder, but I'm still using the UMO motor ( not sure if it has a different step count or if Marlin is sending signals for a different step count) I set the step per mm to 282 ( same as UM2) but it looks to be heavily over extruding. I'm going to try 141 steps per mm in case its a stepper motor steps per degree thing, but then I would assume there was a jumper or something in marlin I could change to bring that back up since I lose the gear reduction. THANKS!
  2. Just read your tutorial. VERY nicely done. Wish there were more like it!!
  3. Did you have to change the blocks to install the UM2 Printhead? If so , is that's all that's needed to install the UM2 printhead?
  4. Well, We got our UMO+ assembled I'm so spoiled on the UM2 that I know right off the bat what needs to be modified. -Pulleys -Feeder -Print Head assembly -Firmware Pretty much what everyone says could use a little tweaking on these. Just got done with an order for 150 x 6 hours prints, and these did well ( .8 nozzle Black ABS). Will definitely have to spend some time researching the best tweaks for these... for now, they will handle the "blocky" big, simple geometric prints. One thing I did notice is that circles don't seem perfectly circular... I'll have to check pulleys I suppose?
  5. There are ikea glass doors in the front and wooden doors behind. There's just enough room to get you forearm by the printer. In the back there are 4 UM on the lower shelves. It's a floating wall that separates the office from the shop, so it does 2 jobs, plus, now we can enclose the printers, since we usually only print in High temp materials. Will post pics of the wall soon, it's built but not painted, as we're having to remodel the entire unit.
  6. I run tinker Marlin on all my um2's, with GR5's insulators... I can print Poly carbonate at 280 all day with those insulators. I've read everywhere that they share the same electronics, yet when I install Cura ( 15.04) it gives me totally different options, such as bed calibration, print temps in the menu, etc... So I'm wondering, why if they run the same electronics is there a different UI. Keep in mind, the printers won't be here for 1 more day, so I'm trying to line up parts to print ahead of time. I don't mind printing add-ons all day long. For example, I could just order a Meduza feeder kit from GR5, install that ( like $19 ). I've got my own flavor of feeder printed and installed now ( SP3D ). Problem is, as time has passed and the UM has gone through it's iterations, it's hard to tell what the current "best" printable upgrades are. I see people are printing end caps for the guide rods I print primarily in HOT materials, so cooling fan upgrades don't interest me since I hardly ever use them. I've read that GT2 pulley upgrades are a must... not sure if someone already has a package of those ready to go instead of me having to count teeth and order from Misumi UM2 head on the UM0+ sounds interesting. Would be convenient since I already have a stockpile of UM2 print head parts. I assume there's all sorts of things that need to be modified for that.
  7. Happy Corner went and got way too cramped. Opening a new store now. Here's a rendering of what my new happy corner will look like. Wish me luck!
  8. Hi guys, Been a while since I posted ( Yeah I missed you too ) Super busy... the same old excuse I suppose... but it is true I had a crazy idea today. I've been buying new and used UM2's to run bulk printing. They're great, I recommend them to everyone, and they hardly ever let me down. However, I kinda wanted to change it up a bit. Where's the fun in doing the same 'ol thing over and over. Buy a Um2, buy another Um2, and so on... Tonight I bought TWO UM0+ 's . Why not. They're currently $995, so I can run twice the prints and STILL come in under the UM2+ price tag. I thought I'd post a new thread, because their are indeed fan boys who love their UMO's and there are fan boys who love their UM2's. UM0 guys don't see the need to upgrade to UM2's, and UM2's guys feel like it's a downgrade to go old school. Up until recently I was probably one of the UM2 fan boys. Ultimaker is still selling the UM0+, so it must at least WORK... right? I'm calling anyone out there that has complete mastery of the UM2's and has learned to tune, adjust, modify, hack their UM0+ to run similar to a UM2. There are just SOOOOO many threads now on this forum, that I haven't the time to search through them like I did when I got my first UM2 a few years ago. Besides, I'm sure there are some top dogs out there that could tell it like it is " Download this, Install that, print this... bam, you're set" -Pat
  9. I usually just take a lighter and melt the two ends together... let cool and take a razor blade to clean the mushroom bulge off... I was just curios as to why it would restart the print again much higher than when it left off... after all, a paused print goes back to its original location?
  10. I see a ton of filaments just sitting out, and some bagged to the right. Is there certain filaments you find that need to be bagged up? Right now I individual bag all my filaments (PLA) with a desiccants packet. How do you like the Form 1 compared to the awesome that is the UM2's? To be honest, I gave up on bagging filament a long time ago. I'll find a good deal on filament, buy a lot and open it up as needed. The office is climate controlled which helps. The only filament I have to watch out for is Nylon. As for the Form 1+, I just posted my thoughts on it after using it now for a year --> https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/10789-form1-experience?page=1&sort=#reply-124030
  11. Damn, can I hang out at your place for a few... years? Anytime!
  12. Here are some tips and tricks that I've come up with after a year of using the Form 1+ printer... #1 - NEVER use compressed air cans #2 - Invest in a $10 Rocket Bulb ( the little squeezy bulbs that blow air using hand power) #3 - Scrape resin tanks every 5 hours or so of use. You can actually scrape with firm pressure as long as the metal spatula is free of burs #4 - Blow mirrors clean with the rocket bulb VERY often, and try no to put yourself in the position of having to hand clean the mirrors. These are first surface mirrors, and you're kidding yourself if you think you'll ever get them "factory clean" once you touch them. #5 - Keep PLENTY of Isopropyl Alcohol on hand. Clean spatula and containers often. This printer is MESSY if you don't pay attention to cleaning. We keep 2 gallons on hand at all times, and 1 liter of 97% IPA on hand for precise cleaning. #6 - Treat this printer like a MEDICAL GRADE UNIT. Never touch anything but the side tabs of the resin trays, the power button, the build platform, and the corner of the lid to open and close... PERIOD! Yes, you can clean the side tray rails once a film starts to build up, but generally speaking there are only four parts of the printer you should be touching on a daily basis #7 - Be prepared for HIGH printing costs $$$. Between resins, trays, alcohol, gloves, paper towels, time invested in support manipulation, failed prints.... This machine is NOT cheap to run #8 - When printing tough resin, sand the build platform with 80 to 100 grit sand paper. Be prepared for the first print to fail... In other words, sand the platform, start a print, and get ready to cancel the print. It will usually stick on the second attempt. Go into fine tune settings and adjust the build platform height to ~.3mm closer to the tray. Print with a thicker support base. #9 - Don't skimp on supports for large prints, or when printing in tough resin, or flexible resin. It's actually easier in a lot of cases to file or sand a large support "nub" off than a small one ( as smaller nubs may cut into the part when they break away). This also means don't go too small with support diameter. .4mm works fine for tiny little prints, but if it's a decent size print ( anything larger than 2") switch to the recommended .6mm or even .7~.8 #10 - Failed prints lead to QUICK resin tray failures. Eliminating failed prints will stretch your dollar when it comes to replacing the trays. We've had failed prints that ruined sections of the resin tray immediately, while on the other hand have had trays last for 3 bottle of resin #11 - Spend a little time examining the automatically generated support placement. There's almost ALWAYS something you'll catch that can be done better by human eyes. Experience goes a long way here. Practice makes perfect #12 - Invest in some form of post curing UV Light. We are fortunate enough to have medical grade sterilization lights used in clinics. The benefit, when compared to curing in sunlight, is an even and controlled cure. Especially noticeable in parts with geometries that want to warp. You'll also be able to cure parts at night. The drawback is it takes longer to cure. I can't comment on the nail spa type UV curing units; we've never used them. #13 - Remove support material before fully cured when printing with the standard resins ( Black, clear, etc...) These resins become fragile when fully cured, and damage is more likely to occur when removing the supports from fully cured parts. We, however, do NOT remove the support immediately. The support material actually helps a lot in preventing parts from warping during curing. When dealing with tough resin and flexible resin, we generally let it cure WITH the support material on. These resins don't get "glass hard" so damage to the part when removing support material isn't usually an issue. #14 - Hollowing Parts will save on resin cost, but be WARNED. If you don't add a vent hole to your parts, the suction forces between each peel cycle will greatly increase your chance of failed prints. We plug the vent holes post process by applying liquid resin to the holes, sticking some clear tape over the hole, and orienting the part so the liquid settles against the clear tape. We then exposing to UV to cure. #15 - When calculating print costs, be aware that 1000ml of resin will NOT yield 1000ml of printed parts. As a rule of thumb, we expect to get 750ml worth of prints from 1000ml of resin. Resin trays are calculated into our costs as well. Some resins, like castable, wear trays out quicker, but as a general rule, 2000ml worth of resin for 1 tank. #16 - Large prints will wear out your trays much faster than several small prints. We've done jobs where we needed to print 3 or 4 large prints, and they tray was useless after those prints. Large prints don't allow you to orient the part much... there's no room to move the print around, so layer after layer, the laser strikes the same spot on the resin trays.... Calculate resin tray usage at a higher rate when printing large prints. #17 - DIY Resin Tray refurbishing. It IS doable. We've done several. Some things to note: The SLIGHTEST amount of dust in your room/shop or whatever, WILL find it's way into the silicone during curing. We have yet to replace a liner that didn't have some sort of dust in it. Vacuum degassing seems to work a little better, but again, you'll have to make sure your vacuum pot is DUST FREE. We have not accelerated curing times in an oven, so I can't speak to that. I will say, for the average hobbyist/enthusiast, refurbishing your own trays works quite well. Here's a link to that http://forum.formlabs.com/t/how-to-refurbish-your-resin-tank-for-about-10/3340 #18 - Follow the recommended procedures when post processing the parts straight out of the printer. Put in alcohol, shake a bit, let sit 20 minutes. We are not afraid of chemicals, so we actually hand rub some of the prints while they are submerged. Once the 20 minutes is up, we raise the print above the alcohol container and use brushes to do a last "sweep" over the parts. Inexpensive acid brushes wok well. We then rinse with a squeeze bottle of CLEAN alcohol. From there, it's on to curing or support material removal. We will then put the part BACK in the alcohol container and do a last hand rubbing. Note that discoloration of resin can occur if you are in a hurry and use compressed air to dry the parts. Water mixes with the alcohol and may turn the prints white. This can be removed in most case with more alcohol... go figure.. #19 - Invest In Pec Pads and Novus polycarbonate polish. You WILL eventually need these to clean the mirrors, bottom of the trays or the orange cover to the unit itself. Besides, thay are great products and find many uses for them around the shop #20 - Set an area up SPECIFICALLY for resin printing. This is a messy printer when used often. You will get resin on the counter tops. You will accidentally leave resin on your tools. You will fling resin when removing prints from the build Platform, or when removing supports. If you're a tidy person, you won't notice it at first, but over time, you'll notice thin sticky film in your work area. There are more tips, like buy paint filters and filter resins after 20 hours or so of printing... don't store resin trays in their original cardboard boxes, keep printer away from windows, and the list goes on, but I thought I'd keep it to 20 ( you see what I did there?) That's about it for a quick rundown. In conclusion, the printer has done exactly what we've asked of it. It's much more expensive to operate than a UM2, but simply prints parts that are otherwise difficult to achieve on the UM2. The detail/resolution is outstanding. If you'll approach the printer as a medical grade device, opposed to something like a table saw, then you'll have much success.
  13. Just went to change filament mid print. When the print resumed, it was off by about 2mm - too high... Has anyone had this happen? Using Cura 15.02.01 ( not really ready to switch to the new steam engine yet) Printers are running, so not sure which firmware, but it is the firmware that allows changing filament mid print.
  14. Symptom --> Stuck at heating build platform when starting print Fix--> Clean socket, cut and resolder wire
  15. Well, 2 weeks in to the overhead feeding. Still using duct tape and zipties at this point. Trying to find the optimal settings and angle. I have found that cutting 8" or so off the bowden was too much in my current configuration. I'll also have to switch to a quick release style feeder. I just can't get enough leverage to manually push the filament through when changing. The dependability factor is outstanding. A few 24 hour prints and I know it's just going to keep feeding. I've designed arms that mount to the the wall that will hold the spools and feeders, as well as integrated bearings to guide the filament to the feeder. Will keep you posted.
  16. Printed this for my daughter to paint. They're out for school so whenever one of the printers is free I throw something on for them to paint. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:182332
  17. Wasn't too keen on it at first. It looked WAY too simple, and with the announcement of dropped features (at least for the time being) I was expecting some wimpy software. A click on the tabs while in the advanced mode revealed very few options. At this point I thought, "Oh great, a very pretty UI with absolutely no function." That was until I went to Settings>Preferences...>Machine and turned on every darn check box there is. I mean, Support Speed? being able to set bottom and top distances individually in support (not to mention the other 14 options), amount of slower layers, and the material settings, made me exhale loudly, ease back into my chair and say to myself ... "cool". Look forward to trying out all these settings.
  18. Calling all you Die-Hard Ultimaker Hackers (You know who you are)... I've run out of room on my workbench. Usually, I'd rotate the printers around for filament changes, but with no room to rotate the printers, I'll have to mount the feeders above the printers. So far I have the printer on the left temporarily rigged for overhead feeding. It seems to work just fine in this jury-rigged state, but I thought I'd get your take on the optimal setup, such as placement of the feeder, optimal bowden tube length (it would seem as though a shorter tube can now be used), roll orientation, etc. It might just be me, but at first glance, this type of setup has many benefits, such as cooler stepper motor, shorter bowden (less slack), and a more direct path to the extruder. Any thoughts?
  19. Version 1.0


  20. chrome filament.... riiiiiggggghhhhhttttt Nice April Fools
  21. http://www.amazon.com/Paasche-VL-SET-Double-Action-Airbrush/dp/B00397TTTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427891524&sr=8-1&keywords=airbrush+paasche worked great for me for my first airbrush. After you master it, you can move on to the $200 airbrushes which require a little more skill.
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