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solid-print-3d

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Everything posted by solid-print-3d

  1. Printed this for my daughter to paint. They're out for school so whenever one of the printers is free I throw something on for them to paint. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:182332
  2. Version 1.0

    3,158 downloads

    Prints
  3. chrome filament.... riiiiiggggghhhhhttttt Nice April Fools
  4. So... hold off on canceling my order??? The Meshlab video looks easy enough to stitch scans, which is a plus.
  5. very interested, can you send me some links, etc...? thanks, -Pat
  6. damn.... My fuel3D scanner is shipping early April. I was hoping that it was going to allow me to scan to my hearts intent, but from what you posted, I'm going to have my work cut out for me :( Also, I had no idea that I would have to pay for software? That sucks. Keep us posted
  7. I think I've only ever printed one or two items at .02mm layer height. I find that .05~.06mm works just fine if you're looking for smooth prints, but don't want to waste time. Just to show time difference when printing 1cm cube (50mm/sec speed) .1mm = 11 minutes .06= 18 minutes .02 = 52 minutes! I also found that in the couple of prints I did at .02mm, there were some noticeable spots where flow rate resulted in some abnormalities, probably filament diameter related.
  8. I was suing PLA scrap parts to support my ABS parts in vapor chambers until I noticed that the Acetone was making the PLA flexible. Pretty cool if you're going for flexible PLA.
  9. @Arian, LOVE it! Looks like you could get by with thinner gears, as they're not transferring any torque ( well, miniscule amounts and the RPM is relatively low) to save weight. Also, consider carbon instead of aluminum, as you can get super thin carbon pultruded tubes that are pretty stiff in short segments and weigh next to nothing, as well as being very affordable.(available through amazon, ebay or any reputable hobby shop) Also, instead of designing tie-in (or tie-down) blocks on top of the support structure (where it attaches string to kite), you could save a little weight by incorporati
  10. For you hard core 3D printing geeks and designers out there (guilty), there is a challenge on GrabCad to design a hand rail clamp for NASA. Cash prizes, pretty simple project, plus you get the recognition that something designed is in space! https://grabcad.com/challenges/nasa-handrail-clamp-assembly-challenge
  11. The LED'S on the newer machines are terrible. People probably don't complain enough becasue most people don't have multiple UM2's, but for those of us who do.... the new LED's might as well be turned off (yeah... they're that bright)
  12. Yes, my newer UM2 looks just ike the one on the right and @ tottenham12712 (damn what a user name ) , I understand the color shift over time... I'm talking about right out of the box! The newer UM2 (at least the newer one I have) has a completely differnt LED strip. The old LED strip had the diodes exposed, the new strips have the LED's encase in a resin shield.
  13. It's not an LED life cycle issue. My brand new printer had very dim LED's compared to my older UM2
  14. @Skint ABS (natural), Acetone Vapor (cold method), filler primer, silver, and high gloss clear.
  15. @Skint Printed one of the shower head versions for a client. Was a really fun print.
  16. I'm just not comfortable sticking steel needles up a soft brass precision orifice. I've ruined plasma tips, welding tips and other copper and brass orifices sticking steel objects in them... including my first UM2 hotend. That hotend is now a .5mm hotend due to rubbing the hole out larger with a needle. It's probably just me... I'd rather torch the hotend and clean the carbon out. If the hotend's weren't so expensive, I'd probably use needles again becasue it's a lot faster
  17. To tell you the truth, I'm having more problems with my PLA printer (I only print with PLA in one printer, ABS in the other) so to answer your question, I'm using PLA temps... Around 205~212 C . Using USA Natureworks stuff. Have to say.... I assumed my ABS printer would fail first due to the higher print temps, but no.... The ABS machine just keeps going and going. again,....weird....
  18. Due to the orientation of the print, it's actually very sturdy... Had it been printed in the Z direction, yes, I would have been worried
  19. I have no idea why we still use Imperial. I design in metric, which gets confusing at times becasue I often have to use imperial fasteners, so drawings look funny to me, but I guess that's how it is.... Work on a Ford truck and some bolts will be 1/2" while others 12mm... On another note, I just had to do 12 cold pulls to get one of the printers going again... I'd do 2 or 3, think everything's fine, go to print, JAM. Do another couple of cold pulls, some more black crap comes out... Was very confusing becasue after the first 3, it pulled out clean... Then it would jam and I'd find some more
  20. Yes, considering all I had to do was a quick scan and literally 30 minutes later had a working key. I presume I could use the same technique with most standard keys.
  21. Printed an emergency house key to carry in my wallet. yes.. it works
  22. Just reached the 4800 Meter mark on my UM2's. That's 3 MILES of filament! Or, I guess, 4.8 Kilometers for you metric wierdo's
  23. I have the same problem. My new um2 is so much darker than my old one. It looks funny really cuz it looks like it's not even on.
  24. has anybody tried throwing a brozefill print in a tumbler?
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