esteban-pacheco
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Posts posted by esteban-pacheco
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well, Gr5, i also came to the conclusion that increasing the flow to 110% is a part of the solution (despite what i've readed here in forum - that turning the flow up is like complete heresy).
maybe i can turn dow the filament thickness (say 2.84) on the machine.. that will generate a bigger flow without increasing the flow
whats that Steps / mm?
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Thanks Gr5 for your extense answer:
I have an Olson Block now (but i had also this issues since I've got the machine in the very first week i've noticed this - then i had the normal nozzle)
1) my heater block i not touching the fan shroud, theres 1 mm gap in between (i have steel gauges here)
2) isolator is 1 week old
3) it doesn't matter if the spool in new or not, i have the same issues.
4) Never Tried That
5) ill try that
5a) ill try that
5b) the gap between the PTFE and the steel isolator is 1.4 mm
6) Nozzle are new (olsonblock)
7) I was using the roberts feeder, it was (in my opinion) not so reliable... now I'm using the standard one, so, no matter if tight or loose
8) which nuts?
9) filament from Colorfabb (i think is a good manufacturer).
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well I can... but the top layers will be not so nice the rest, i think the fans have smth to do, based on my observations,
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hello, i was doing a few test yesterday. ... what i've noticed is that the VERY FIRST layer.. is always perfect, the second too, and so on, up to the 5th layer (there the fan is blowing 100% to avoid warping). the next BOTTOM LAYERS begin to be not so homogeneous like the previous ones, principally (i think) because the material begins tho shrink a little when applied (and again - i think) is the reason the bottom and the top layers are not closed...
so i don't know maybe 30 mm/2 (thats sound too slow for me), 210 C and 0.1 mm?
maybe i can print cooler but with the fans a little bit slower?
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well, at the beginning i used Tweak at Z (but it was too clomplex because i Need to run it like 10 times)
what ill try today is to print the top infill and the outer Shell at 25 mm/s (first Shells, then infill) the rest at 50 mm/s, with 223 - 225 C
those temperatures are not uncommon with PLA right?
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a little bit better... but still... not closed
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[media=3464][/media]
today
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Ultiarjan wants to increase flow to make things watertight.
well i think is a good idea to be able to somehow overextrude for bottom, top surfaces... (i dont know difficult is to inplement and write such Options in the Software), im having a hard time when i Need to do smth watertight, because due an strange reason the bottom and top surfaces are not completely closed...
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So, it is Uploaded, Also the INI File, please test it!
My_Flat.STL on Youmagine
thanks.
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Isn't this thread is a separate continuation of 'Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD' thread? What happened to that thread - it appears that this issue is being heavily discussed but getting nowhere!
I'm still intrigued to see if esteban-pacheco has made the .stl available and others have printed it successfully with a nice clean closed top surface - cant see any reference to that?
Can the .stl file be made available please?
cheers
I already prepared it THE STL, and the INI File... Now, HOW can i upload it here? for you guys to test it?
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Before you drive yourself completely crazy you want to test various PLA filaments first. The variance in quality between brands/unbranded and colours within even the same brands is quite unreal.
True enough, though Colorfabb has a very good name...
Sometimes various colors from the same manufacturer also make a big difference. Maybe just try another color if you have any?
I have many Colors, ill gona try some today... all Of them Colorfabb.
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Just a detail, but you should increase your travel speed.
The higher the difference between printing speed and travel speed, the better. Much less oozing and stringing that way.
I'd recommend 150 mm/s travel speed. Faster is possible, but I like to keep speeds to a minimum on my UMO.
/edit:
If your UMO has problems with 150mm/s travel speed, then you should inspect your gantry. Everything perfectly rectangular? shafts oiled?
Everything is well oiled with sunflower oil! (joke! im using sewing machine oil)
and YES, all is perfectly rectangular, and perfectly Circular...
i've testet yesterday, and im getting better result if i print between 225 and 230 C... thats weird, if youre printing at 50 mm/s and with 0.1 mm layer height, right? if i use 210 C and 215 the Shells are perfect, is just the stupid top layers that doesnt want to Play with those temperatures.
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All of those settings look fine. It would be best to post them all though. Not to type them in one at a time but to post the ini file for them (which version of Cura are you using)? I guess the only ones that could cause what you see that are left over are "flow" on the printer, the top infill not checked off.
Well if it were me I would test the feeder at this point and also check the temperature. These tests are involved but worth it to limit the problem to a particular area. Also if it were me I would do a quick change of the nozzle just in case it has some kind of partial clog and because I have an olsson block that's very easy to do.
I also have an OlsonBlock, brand new, and brand new Nozzles, ill be posting the STL and Ini Files tonight.
whats that "flow on the Printer" youre talking about? the flow Rate?
the only Thing i havent changed still is the Temp sensor....
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I also have an OLSSON BLOCK... and the nozzles ARE NEW
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i cannot even run the Cura 15.06.01 i install it, open it and immediately it crashes.
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why i cannot update my firmware from Cura 15.06.01?
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theres a similar topic, I've reader it completely but theres no solution or conclusion for this issue.
https://ultimaker.com/en/troubleshooting/view/6375-top-layers-not-touching-um2
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i changed almost all parts (i got a COMPLETE hot end, a new bowden, a new feeder, a new PTFE), how can i have UNDEREXTRUSION?
this printer is making me nuts...
Im not using strange settings:
Im using the same speed on EVERYTHING (outer shell, infill, inner shell, everywhere)
Material And Temperature
Material = Colorfabb Blueish White (2.85 mm)
Temperature © = 215
Quality:
Layer Height (mm) = 0.1
Shell thickness (mm) = 1.2
enable retraction = check
Fill
Bottom / Top thickness (mm) = 1
Fill Density (%) = 26
Speed and Temperature
Print speed (mm/s) = 50
Support
Support type = Everywhere
Platform adhesion type = none
Machine
Nozzle size (mm) = 0.4
Quality
Initial layer thickness (mm) = 0.3
Initial layer width (%) = 100
Cut off object bottom (mm) = 0.0
Dual extrusion overlap (mm) = 0.15
Speed
Travel speed (mm/s) = 90
Bottom layer speed (mm/s) = 20
Infill speed (mm/s) = 0
Top/bottom speed (mm/s) = 0
Outer shell speed (mm/s) = 0
Inner shell speed (mm/s) = 0
Cool
Minimal layer time (sec) = 10
Enable cooling fan = check
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well they're ok
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well my step motors are ALL the way down... maybe time to change belts?
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so note describe please how you managed to solve your problem...
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well, the show belts ARE Tight! completely Tight! i also used that site to look for answers...
and what do you mean by "FULL maintenance"?
UNDER EXTRUSION??? I Have a brand new nozzle! all is new.. how come i can have under extrusion? everything the whole hot end!
when doing circles the are just perfect...
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[media=3357][/media]
"filled Infill Top"is checked... and this problem was also on winter... so, whats can be happening?
Closed TOP surfaces
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted · Edited by Guest
WELL, NOW THATS INTERESTING! Thanks GR5 I'm gonna check the Steps/mm settings of my printer. Where can i Change that? Control Panel? you mean the ulticontroller? maybe under movement right?
what are the normal Range or values?
Ps, i checked the screw under the feeder motor, and all is ok... no tilting....