esteban-pacheco

and i did all the available print test in order to discard blackslash Problems, or underExtrusion, stringing, etc etc etc...

Hello Everyone, im glad i've found this tread today, i thought i was one of the few having this headache. I have somethimes this Kind of Problem and ist very annoying, sometimes the top layers Closes really smoth, sometimes dont. The object's Shells sometimes fuse togehter (if im printing lets say and regular shape, for example an square) but if im printing something "organic" where the outlines are not straight, morelike "curvy" then the outlines doesnt fuse evenly, in some parts yes, and in somere Areas dont. I've been testing with my ultimaker in the last couples of weeks, to try to find the answer to this "erratic issue" but it is imposible to find (at least for me) a solution, because of the same ist erratic nature. i tried EVERYTHING--- i even got a new bowdentube, new PTFE coupler, nut hotend issulator, oiled the axis, my shortbelts are really thight, im printing PLA (colorfabb) at 215° and 40 mm/s... im doing i think all properly, and still having issues, i think it can be anything causing this... HAVE SOMEONE NARROWED THE SEARCH FOR CAUSES A LITTLE BIT?

Good morning, thank you for your answer> yes i've read that post completely three times, it was pretty confusing, you tried a lot of stuff, there is some conclusions about?

Left, Replicator 2 right, U2 same printing parameters

Hello Forum, it has been a year since [media=1105][/media]i've got my machine, and im very happy, but i have to say that in the last time, the exterior surfaces doesn't come out very smooth, is they're like too noisy, because the layers are Really visible... its hard to explain, is smh similar like banding, what kind of corrective measures should i take in order to restablish the proper behaviour of my U2? Many thanks

Damn!

so... thats nice to know.. i was always thinking that the proper way to connect the bowden tube with the hot end was not so close... like somehow loose... now you're telling me totally the opposite... that it has to be REALLY close to the PTFE coupler..

ok, Swordriff now i pushed it fully.... its working better... but still getting sometimes this issue

what happens if the Bowden is fully inserted and you still can observe this behaviour? it is normal too that when inserting material the feeder skips quite a lot?

Thanks for your answers! before the PTFE coupler change a pointy tip wasn't needed... so i think something is wrong... because now in need one... and Swroddriff, my bowdentube is fully inserted... it still moves up (but still clamped with that white four thoothed piece) that white part moves with, i think it was the normal behaviour of the machine when i got it from the manufacturer...

Hello Forum, im having Issues after changing The PTFE coupler. a few days ago, i had some underextrusion Problems with my U2, so i took all the hot end apart, in order to replace that Teflon part... all now is working perfectly and the prints are really awesome even at high Speeds... the issue im having now (despite putting all the hot end parts together carefully and following the assembly Manual - and some other observations taken from this Forum) is that when loading material, it doesnt gets inserted through the PTFE coupler properly, and get stuck, so i Need to move the bowden tube and some how try to make it straight to get the material loaded properly, then i hear a sound like, "clack" and the in gets trough the PTFE coupler. It is something like the Filament hits the ptfe cupler on the top, on the border of the PTFE conduct, and doesnt get into the hole... somehow not perfectly aligned... so i took all again apart... and checked twice... but still im having this Problem... BUT, i use a sharp blade, and i make the Filament pointy, then it works like a charm... it doesnt get stuck. does anybody has an idea about what can be happning? Many thanks...

Jameshs, i think that small orders are better tan larger one, a few months ago i got like 10 spools from Colorfabb, some of them are stil unoppened, and I've left the used ones without the proper protection (bag + Silica), just like 3 weeks ago i decided to put everything in bags with silica... so i think most of them are really afected by air moisture... is there a way to "rescue" the old Filament?

well, mine is form colorfabb (it wasn't always properly stored, first when i knew PLA abosorb moisture from air). i was printing always 210 C with new pla straight form the package with old PLA, printing at that temperature, the material doesn't flow nicely, so i need to go like you to 235... is that normal?

Hello Forum: im getting a little problems by printing with Old PLA i know that depending on the printing speed you have to rise/lower your nozzle temperature... I've a frew PLA Reels that are a Few months old (packed in airtight bag + silica gel)... whats the highest temp you can use on old PLA? 235 degrees Celsius? Thanks..

Laber: Wow thats a really small drill! I saw that poste in other blog! And it works! Great! Now i know what im going to, ill test with the standard bozzle, and if sonething happen, i change to the one you recomended!

Labern: so your solution is still "work in process" (talking about the cooling fans)?

Hey Labern, good morning (here) I've senn your link, what about the print Quality? oozing for example?

Thanks Skint, im planning to print something big (like 250 hours) so thats why im asking... you know... i don't wanna be changing Nozzles too often, not because of the price, but the time you need to expend to change it...

Thanks Labern, Thanks Skint, for your answers I've created this Topic to exchange facts, theres (or i haven't found) very little info in this forum about this issue. @ Skint: Say, how long have you been printing with Bronzefill? do you also have a brass nozzle?

Hello Forum, i've got a few spools of metalfill (bronze and Copper) i have been reading about nozzles literally completely worn out after a few hours printing. Someone has experience using this materials? on one side i've got trustfully People saying some of those materials are dangerous (copper), others are ok (bronze), on the other side i have representatives of a Company saying all metalfill is ok... i really want to give the materials a try, but im not so sure... all i want to do is to print and be happy... thanks... EP

Hey Ulti Arjan! what issue, the clogging with the material? or Damaged Bowden Tube?

just Asking: what is better when the clogging happens, to take the bowden tube out and cleaning it... or UNLOAD THE MATERIAL... and reinsert again.... i've read that if you take the bowden tube too often with the time it will get damaged

Thanks for the replies, it is great to know that im not the only one experimenting this.. and is really annoying... the pieces come out really nice... and after taking the piece out of the printer (i wait until the machines says so) and right away i want to print something else... bam! Clog!.... im only using Colorfabb colours... so nobody has any idea how to avoid this?... i tried just after finishing the print... when the head goes back home... i navigate the menu and then y say move material.... but sometimes, im not near the machine... to do so...

Hi forum! in the last past few weeks i've been experiencing some kind of little problems, this happen when im printing with PLA, with other materials is everything Ok. My U2 is printing Wonderful, so when the print is finished and i want to print smth else after a few minutes, i notice that that the nozzle is clogged, so i have to clean it (take bowden tube out and so on...) so after 1 minute or two, all is ok again... and im able to print again... so this thing will happen again almost 80% of the time. had someone experienced smth like this? Many Thanks, Esteban.

Thanks Illuminarti! as i told you, I'm new to the ultimaker 2 (i'm a defector from MB 2)and i saw that and my first tough was like... well it seems like in a couple of days it might get worse, and we will have some problems..