zews

My object is 92.8 mm tall. I want to print with .1 mm layers. Cura 15.06.02 shows 926 layers. This is wrong. Cura 15.02.1 shows the correct number of layers as 928 Why is this so? What is going on?

I am having multiple issues with Cura 15.06.02, the latest being that Infill is not showing nor printing. I have set Infill to 20%. It is showing up fine is Cura 15.02.1 as you can see in the yellow lines in this image: However in Cura 15.06.02 the same 20% Infill does not show, nor does it print. I had to abort the print, because the result would be a hollow part, which can not be used. Even when I set Infill to 100% Cura still shows the part as hollow, and the printing time does not change. Both the lack of infill as well as no change between 20 and 100% seem to be bugs. I am now printing the part after slicing with Cura 15.02.1 and the infill is printing beautifully.

zews Level 3 - Hobbyist Posted Jul 26, 2015 - 3:15 PM Edit post I have posted the following before, unfortunately nobody from Ultimaker has responded about this. Also unfortunately the same thing is happening again now. For a model I currently want to print Cura reports the following: At a print speed of 50 mm/sec the reported print time is 2 hours and 47 minutes At a print speed of 40 mm/sec the reported print time is 3 hours and 18 minutes At a print speed of 30 mm/sec the reported print time is 4 hours and 12 minutes At a print speed of 25 mm/sec the reported print time is 4 hours and 57 minutes At a print speed of 20 mm/sec the reported print time is 2 days, 9 hours and 54 minutes! Obviously something is very wrong here. I really wish somebody from Ultimaker would respond to this, and tell me either what I can do to fix this or tell us that this is a known bug and when a fix for this will be available. How can one see an added image in full size once it is uploaded? This was easily done in the previous version of this forum, and now I can't seem to figure out how to see a full size image.

I have posted the following before, unfortunately nobody from Ultimaker has responded about this. Also unfortunately the same thing is happening again now. For a model I currently want to print Cura reporta the following: At a print speed of 50 mm/sec the reported print time is 2 hours and 47 minutes At a print speed of 20 mm/sec the reported print time is 2 days, 9 hours and 54 minutes! Obviously something is very wrong here. I really wish somebody from Ultimaker would respond to this, and tell me either what I can do to fix this or tell us when a fix for this will be available. How can one see an added image in full size once it is uploaded? This was easily done in the previous version of this forum, and now I can't seem to figure out how to see a full size image.

I want to print a small model. In trying to determine the optimum printing speed I played around with printing speeds. At a printing speed of 20 mm/sec the reported printing time is 40 minutes At a printing speed of 25 mm/sec the reported printing time is 36 minutes At a printing speed of 30 mm/sec the reported printing time is 35 minutes At a printing speed of 35 mm/sec the reported printing time is also 35 minutes At a printing speed of 50 mm/sec the reported printing time is 2 hours 22 minutes. Obviously something is very wrong here. Unfortunately the uploaded images in which you can see the reported printing times cannot be seen in full scale in the forum. Also, even though I have checked "Follow and receive reply notifications" in every topic I have followed, I never receive any notifications.

Do I need to upgrade my UM2 firmware now that I have installed Cura 15.06.01? And what will this do if I want to process a print using a previous version of Cura, that I have still installed, and will probably keep around until I am completely comfortable with the new version. So far I find the many different settings for Support very confusing.

I downloaded and used version 15.06.01. So far I like what I see. There are a lot of settings that are new so I am going to need some time to figure all of this out. So this is my question. Can I install 15.06.01 in addition to the version I have been using so far (15.02.1) or do I need to delete the last version and do a new install. I have noticed that 15.06.01 runs rather slow on my iMac, which is very surprising since I have a very fast processor, 3.5 GHz Intel Core i7. Running OS X Yosemite 10.10.2 with 8GB of memory. Any idea why Cura runs so slow.

I do not understand what you mean with "Roberts feeder v4 printed v6 after a few months". I assume these are two different alternative feeders of Robert's design? Which one is the one you used for your successful prints? When I look at one of the models of Robert's design it says "Alternative UM2 Feeder - version two". Some of the parts have part names that have "V6" in it. I don't see anything that has "V4" in it. In the comments for that feeder you are the only one talking about v4 and v6 also. The comments also make no sense to me. Would you please explain. Since it does seem that using this alternative feeder improves printing with flexible PLA quite a bit, and I need to print some parts with a flexible material, I'd like to get my understanding of all of this right.

Anyone who uses 3D modeling software and wants to share designs and/or models with clients and/or friends may want to take a look at getting a free account on Sketchfab. Since you already know how to use your 3D modeling program using this is very easy. Here is a link to one of my models on Sketchfab. https://skfb.ly/CZSV And here is the link to sign up. https://skfb.ly/CZXD Did I say it's free?

It is a clean stl file. No naked edges. What does checking the model in X-Ray view tell me about the model if there is something wrong with it? When I look at the model in X-Ray View is see nothing that is obvious to me. Frankly I have never understood what X-Ray View and/or Transparent view are supposed to do. They look identical to me just in different colors. I just printed the model again, after slicing in Cura 14.07. Weird thing, even though I set to print a skirt, none was shown in Cura and none was printed. The print looks decent, albeit not perfect, and not nearly as bad with all those strings and knobs on the surfaces as I posted before.

I just uninstalled Cura version 15.02.01 and reinstalled version 14.12.1. The blue lines make the same erratic movements resulting in a terrible print. I then reinstalled version 14.07, the last version with which I have been able to make decent prints. Again, as before, the blue lines behave as I would expect them to. They only make small movements along the periphery, not criss cross across the empty space. Unfortunately my concern is, that Cura isn't getting better. It is frustrating to realize that the same is happening as what happened a few month ago with a similar simple model. Of course it is also possible that I have some settings wrong.

Mac OS X Yosemite, Version 10.10.2. I upgraded Cura to the latest version, and now I can open Expert Setting. However Cura now does a terrible slicing job and creates a most awful print of a very simple parts. Lots of strings as well as knobby protrusions on the external as well as internal surfaces. Just a big mess. I can't figure out how to do this right. Here are a couple of photos of the print. I have uploaded the stl file here, https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66542951/Size%20X-Small.stl My prints are always so bad, that I am now reluctant to even use my printer anymore. This is no fun for me. More like an enormous waste of time every time I am trying to print something. Especially when it is something seemingly so simple. I had experienced a similar printing issue before after having upgraded to a newer version of Cura. I had uploaded the stl file of a very simple model then too, and Robert printed it successfully using a previous version. When I downgraded I was able to print it successfully too. So my question is. Is Cura the reason again that this is happening, or am I doing something wrong? The version I used to slice this print is 15.02.1. I can upload a movie showing the blue lines in the layers going all over the place, which are movements that I do not want.

Cura crashes every time I tried to open Expert Settings. What to do?

In my version of Cura the choices are: Menu>Machine>Install default firmware or ~>Machine>Install custom firmware I will install the default.

I don't need any replacement parts yet, my printer is still fairly new. And I am sure that at some point I will need a replacement teflon tube as it seems obvious that this is a part that will wear out. Several people have mentioned this. Replacing the nozzle seems rather straightforward and not too difficult. Hopefully I will never need a new heater or temperature sensor.

Dude, That video is awesome! Thanks a lot. And you paid extra attention to keep everything in focus. So many YouTube videos our out of focus and often not even in frame. I saved it for future use. Hopefully far into the future. And as I feared, replacing the heater or temperature sensor (so that's what that PT 100 is?) is a pain with several chances to mess things up.

When I first opened version 14.12.1, as usual I got the popup screen "Welcome to the new version!", with the notice that "This dialog is only shown once". I saved the dialog window to my desktop for later reading, so I now saw that indeed there is a firmware update. There is a button on the bottom that says "Install now" for new firmware install. Since my printer is too far away from my computer to easily connect to the printer with the USB cable is did not click the button to install the new firmware. So the question still is, will the printer automatically detect the new firmware when I connect it to the computer via USB?

I do not understand this post at all. What stops working? What can you not connect/disconnect? What section flashes? What is Pronterface?

Does the new Cura version also include a firmware update. If so, will the printer automatically recognize it, when I connect it via USB?

Thanks pm_dude. I wonder why Ultimaker would not have provided this manual with the printer. I find such a document very informative and helpful. How did you even know where to find this or know that this manual even existed? The manual regarding the hot end assembly seems rather messy and mostly geared to people who assemble these machines as their job. This is not meant for users to do maintenance on this machine. They don't show how the wires for the cartridge heater and the PT100 (they don't explain what that is) are connected to the wires inside the braided sleeve. Or are those wires already inside the sleeve from the start to be connected somewhere on the other end? A funny side note. Even though this is supposed to be an English manual, there is still Dutch in it here and there. They use "messing" instead of "brass", and "bevestigen van de fans" instead of "attaching the fans" Step 16 seems wrong. I think "and the fanduct from the hotend to the pink blue cable" should read "And the cable from the fan from the hotend to the pink blue cable". To make sure I understand this correctly is this the correct disassembly procedure: 1. Disconnect the Bowden tube 2. Slide the braided sleeve up away over the electrical wires 3. Unscrew the four thumb screw to remove the nozzle and fans assemblies 4. Remove the fanduct assembly with fans. Remove and replace fans if needed 5. Remove the nozzle assembly by unscrewing the stainless steel insulator. I am not clear how the cartridge heater and the PT100 should be replaced, because even though I can now easily remove them from the nozzle, I don't know where the cables lead to, and how they attach at the other end. They seem to lead to the back of the printer and go through a hole below the material feeder into the inside of the machine. 6. Remove the hot end cooling fan 7. Disassemble the remaining part of the hot end to get at the teflon part to replace it. Find a supplier of copper grease to reapply to hotend before reassembly. All in all this seems quite an involved affair. Especially if the cartridge heater and/or the PT100 (whatever that is) need to be replaced.

I'm also in favor of a quiet rear fan. Having said that, I have never understood why that fan must be always on by default, even when the printer is not printing. It is interesting to hear about things that until reading this thread I did not know about. - What is the "atomic pull"? - Where is the teflon part located that everybody is talking about? - How does one change a damaged teflon part? - How does one clear a clogged nozzle? - How does one replace a damaged nozzle? - How does one replace a broken temperature sensor? - How does one even know that a temperature sensor is broken? The user manual that came with my printer has some scant few "simple troubleshooting tips", but absolutely nothing about any regular necessary maintenance other than a mention about greasing the Z screw and oiling the X and Y rods. No guidance whatsoever about what steps to follow to take certain assemblies apart and how to reassemble them after replacing parts. I would think that for such an expensive machine something like this would be considered standard procedure. I don't expect that my printer will perform flawlessly forever. Parts wear out, that is normal for any machine. What I do expect is a clearly written maintenance manual, a list of parts that can be expected to fail, and a list of what parts are available to purchase from the manufacturer. I did not know about these issues until now. Knowing about them now, I may even want to order a few parts including installation instructions, so that if or when one of those parts fails, I can replace it without having to contact customer support.

Thanks anon4321, That seems exactly the kind of information I was looking for, and could not find. I wonder why my search with the search term "Octoprint" did not yield at least similar results. I found practically nothing. The strange thing is that your search term "um2 octoprint configuration" in Google yields many results in the Ultimaker forum, but a search in the forum itself yields nothing.

I don't know if you are being sarcastic or if you have actually done this? If you have done this I do want your help. It is not that I am too lazy to put an SD card in the printer. However I would like to be able to monitor my printer from afar, especially when I am printing something that takes many hours. That way I do not have to stay near the printer the whole time. Octoprint was written about in the last issue of MAKE magazine, and I found it interesting Additionally, according to what I have read online I can use a webcam and monitor the print, which might be very useful. Besides this will also give me a change to play around a bit with a Raspberry Pi. That little computer has been used by so many people for so many different projects, and this is one project that I would like to try, because I think it might be useful.

A search on "Octoprint" does not yield discussions in this forum as you claim. There are only a couple of posts where the word "Octoprint" is mentioned, and that is about it. The post you sent me to is in French! Even though I can read and understand French still fairly well, don't you think, that if I were comfortable participating in a technical discussion in French I would have posted in that forum? That topic does not address my somewhat general question, but rather an issue a user has with generating the proper gcode in Cura. The user is advised to change a machine setting in Cura to achieve that.

Has anyone setup his UM2 with Octoprint?