phantom
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Posts posted by phantom
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Take the bowden tube out and heat up the nozzles, cut a piece of filament and stick it in slowly and try to extruder by hand. If that does work it's probably the extruder which is grinding or teeth of it are clogged.
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This is a wheelhub i printer a while back for this small car in the 2nd ipv. Smallest thing i made and or was stil a standard um2 back then.
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Hi Deepshot,
I am printing with it and only tried white at this point, i also have black, grey, red and blue.
The results are great, because there is less reflection of light because it is matt the lines are less visible
The only issue I find is that the lines that are printing are sometimes not connecting, usually where they are intersecting when printing the infill, and found that the problem lies with the feeder. Speed setting is at 50mm which I use for almost all my PLAs
It's quite a soft PLA and the feeder is not feeding enough material which I tested and when it should feed 20 cm, it only gave me about 17.5 cms of material, tested it with colorfabb PLA/PHA which did give me 20cms of material.
The solution for me is to print slower and I will change the feeder as I have another 10kg of this stuff which increases the overall print time considerably.
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Hi Chris,
It's in
c:\users\your name\AppData\Roaming\cura
AppData folder is a hidden folder so you might want to change your properties if it does not show up.
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Thank so much it worked
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Hi all,
Does anyone know why the values in this cura version keep resetting ??
I do not have this problem in 3.0.4
For example i enter 100% infill and when i enter the next field it changes back to the 20% as it was orginally set to. In layer view i even see it change to full infill and a second later it changes by itself back.
Wall thickness is at 0.8mm changing it too 1.2 mm just makes it go back when clicking or using tab to go to the next setting.
almost all values are like this.. :-(
non of this happens in 3.0.4 with exactly the same settings.
Anyone else experiencing this?
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You best try your luck in English if you want an answer on your question.
This is after all the English part of the forum.
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It's the black feeder, the second one that needed the least tension set. But also tried to make it more tight and it did not do anytime flattening the filament a bit en too much teeth where showing.
No I did not use the move function but the function of putting 10 mm of filament trough the feeder in tinkergnome firmware.
Going to the head it did only 70mm as it was grinding which is also the reason for underextrusion I think. Doing a piece without it going trough the head it did close to the full 10 mm.
Yes I did the cold pull and even removed the olson block completely and took a peak inside but all is normal. TFT isolated has been replaced for new one also.
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Hi gr5,
I did the following.
Changed to a new Teflon coupler and removed the I2k waver.
Printed at 0.1mm at 207C degrees and then changed to tinkergnome, i made some adjustments and printed the same part to compare. Slight improvement over the firmware cura 2.7 comes with but no major difference in any way.
Bowden tube is fine, pushed some filament through it with the feeder of and it does not take much force to push it trough the back it was very easy and smooth.
I tested with tinkergnome to push 100mm of filament trough the head at 210C and it made it to only 70mm. I tried again an with my fi gers over the filament I felt it sometimes did not move and it was being grinder.
However when I take a small piece of filament which is not long enough to reach the head and I measured 200mm's it will be at 201.7mm on the display so it's only about 1.7mm short.
The filament I'm using is a bit on the soft side (colorfabb pla/pha and the matteforge) so I'm thinking the feeder is the issue here.
I can't yet get to hanging weights on the filament but seeing the above results make me seem like the feeder is the culprit. Agree or am I still missing something?
Thanks for your help and feedback ????
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I know it's frustrating but... oiling the rods? lol. Okay here are some ideas for you - my latest list of possibilities to run through:
CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM
As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues:
1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle:
20mm/sec at 200C
30mm/sec at 210C
40mm/sec at 225C
50mm/sec at 240C
The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.
2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size. For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you.
3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing.
4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test.
5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference.
6) Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator.
6b) Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator.
6c) Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible.
7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. Or soak it in acetone overnight (after removing 90% of the material with cold pull).
8) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU
9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose
10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding machine together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there.
11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain
11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck.
12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM2 "plus" series.
13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder and although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it.
14) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe.
15) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp.
16) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - maybe there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip? The solution from Ultimaker is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. TinkerMarlin lets you set the currents from the menu system or you can send a gcode to lower the current. Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA.
M907 E1250
Above sets the extruder max current to the default - 1250mA. So try 900mA. This will only change until next power cycle so if you like your new value and want to save it use M500. You can just put these into an otherwise empty gcode file and "print" this and it will change. Or get tinkergnome marlin! You will wonder how you lived without it: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases
M907 E900
M500
Hi gr5,
Hahaha frustrating enough to oil them ????
1) I printed down to a 40mm/s with 210 to 215 degrees at 0.16mm
2) not confused about the wall thickness which is always at 0.8mm with 4mm nozzle
3)got a tft isolator matched for the waver spacer and normally never print hotter then 210 with PLA and currently have not used another material for the last year.
4)tried a new spool and unrolled quit a bit so it has 0 resistance.
5) unrolled filament from new spool so should not make a difference.
6)a/b/c knew about this and adjusted all to see if there was any difference
7)changed nozzle to new race nozzle already.
8 ) tried it and seems to be about right temp, although it's not really a good scientific approach off course.
9) had the feeder removed, cleaned, adjusted and spring tension adjusting while printing.
10)It can also still push a good deal of force. When trying harder types of PLA it skips when I try to do the feed with the dial manually and the nozzle is not hot enough.
With the somewhat softer PLA colorfabb has its doing the underextrusion for sure which makes me believe the feeder might be the culprit !
11)filament is the right diameter. Colorfabb measures in between 2.79-2.83mm and my Matteforge is around 2.72-2.76mm and machine is adjusted accordingly.
12) no issues here with temperature as it is 23 till 25 degrees
13) bowden is still the original and there is no feel of any resistance when I put some filament in by hand
14) switched nozzles and no difference.
15)never used CF
16) it's indeed on 1250 but checked with my finger on the feeder while printing and when it needs to feed it moves I think I will try thinker gnome this weekend.
If reading this back my best guess would be the feeder, what do you think and is there a cheaper way to check then just buy a new one, because then it would go for bondtechQR but that's a lot of money.
Thanks for your support gr5 much appreciated!
Greetz Barry
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Oke this is driving me seriously crazy.
After posting my walls not touching issue, things have become worse and seriously think indeed it is under extrusion.
(https://ultimaker.com/en/community/50191-cura-261-walls-not-touching)
Instead of keep trying atomic pulls which all looked fine anyway, i changed the nozzle for a race nozzle.
No change
I openen up the extruder and adjusted the knurled wheel a bit back as it was not perfectly in line where the filament goes trough and cleaned it all out and though that would be the issue as the knurled wheel could possibly slip easier.
No change.
i retightened all belts, including short ones.
No change
Reoiled all rods
No change
I opened up the head and found a piece of plastic wedged between bowden and the piece of ABS i printed instead of the spring.
No change
Again opened up the head.
The glass filled teflon part looked perfectly fine, maybe also due to the I2K and never print hotter then 210C-215C
The heater (35w) had come out about 5mm so i thought it wouldnt be hot/heat up enough and that would finally be the issue solved.
No change
changed the skin overlap from the standard 5% to 20% but still the walls are not touching and the top/botoom line had become too seperate in certain areas more then i have ever been used to.
Slightly better wall overlap between outer and inner wall, still top/bottom lines are not touching.
Bought a bunch of MatteForge PLA via Kickstarter which came in yesterday and have used that instead of my usual Colorfabb
Guess what, no change
I feel like getting rid of it this way :angry::angry::angry:
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Oke this is driving me seriously crazy.
It has gotten worse and seriously think indeed it is under extrusion.
Instead of keep trying atomic pulls which all looked fine anyway, i changed the nozzle for a race nozzle.
No change
I openen up the extruder and adjusted the knurled wheel a bit back as it was not perfectly in line where the filament goes trough and cleaned it all out and though that would be the issue as the knurled wheel could possibly slip easier.
No change.
i retightened all belts, including short ones.
No change
Reoiled all rods
No change
I opened up the head and found a piece of plastic wedged between bowden and the piece of ABS i printed instead of the spring.
No change
Again opened up the head.
The glass filled teflon part looked perfectly fine, maybe also due to the I2K and never print hotter then 210C-215C
The heater (35w) had come out about 5mm so i thought it didnt be hot heat up enough and that would finally be the issue solved.
No change
changed the skin overlap from the standard 5% to 20% but still the walls are not touching and the top/botoom line had become too seperate in certain areas more then i have ever been used to.
Slightly better wall overlap between outer and inner wall, still top/bottom lines are not touching.
Bought a bunch of MatteForge PLA via Kickstarter which came in yesterday and have used that instead of my usual Colorfabb
Guess what, no change
I feel like getting rid of it :angry::angry::angry:
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Found it myself !!
I just thought of what option i used in addition to 2.6.1 when fiddeling around with 2.7 last night...
I checked this model and another random one with the same setting on and off, and both produced the same results, the problem lies with the option "Print Thin Walls"
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Hi all,
I am currently making a print with 2.7 and it covers the outside surface with tiny blobs which show up in cura as yellow dots ( Top/Bottom ) in layer view.
I checked the same file in 2.6.1 and it shows up clean. Any idea what is causing this ??
Picture for reference, and the file is from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2134605 :
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Wood filament will leave these behind if you did not clean the nozzle thoroughly, try an atomic pull a couple of times untill no black pieces are left behind
Greetz Barry
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During install it will go trough all you cura versions installed on your pc. Just click no and it will go to the next until it installs.
Mine went through all my cura 15.0's till my last installed 2.5 which I all keep installed
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It maybe that your printer is underextruding slightly? And not CURA.
What printer do you have?
How many print hours?
What material are you printing with?
Hi Labern,
I have an UM2 with olsson block, around 1500 hours on it, about 60 hours back rebuild the extruder with upgraded coupler. Cleaned all parts an oiled everything just 10 print hours back and no issues with my print before this which was done at 0.08 mm layer hight.
The cube looks perfectly fine all around with no other signs of underextrusion. Like I said I experienced the same with another recent cura version and when I the go back to another it prints perfectly fine again. Machine software has been updated with 2.4.
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Hi all,
Printed something for my kid over the weekend and the outer wall was not connecting to the inner wall an I could peel it off with my nail and pull 10cms off.
I did a xyz cube as a test just now which looks like it is not touching all around looking from the top down.
I had this same issue in a previous version as well, which i can't recall which one though, but only had this with the 2.. versions. I currently use 2.4 which does not have this weird offset.
Nobody else experienced this problem?
Greetz Barry
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If you don't want to accept my answer or the workarounds for your issue, that is fine with me.
Excuse me but I actually asked you a question in return about using um2+ machine settings, never did I say or imply I did not accept your answer, instead I gave my god honest opinion why I thing this sucks that this function is not working normally.
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As far as I know, it wasn't in 2.4 unless you set your gcode flavor to Reprap in 2.4. Or you used an Ultimaker 2+ profile.
I checked, it was actually 2.3.1 and ultimaker 2 machine profile. Can you use the UM2+ profile then ??
Materials are there for all other printers than the UM2 with UltiGcode. The UM2 is the odd one out here.Makes no sense for a couple of thousend euro costing machine which used to have at least cost calculation going back to what, cura 12 or something, which is made for UM machines? So other machines with ulticode do have them but the most known UM can't?
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How come it was usable in 2.4 where i could enter info and click activate.
What i do not understand is why are there all these different materials you can select while you can't activate them for the ultimaker 2. You can enter cost per spool and it calculates it when entering how much is on there, but then you can't do anything with it cause you cant activate that materials profile ....???
And if you adjust the machine settings to reprap al these materials change into different ones then when using ultigcode, it makes no sense to me that it was not entered differently for a reason, right ?
Does reprep setting also override changes you make when it is printing, so if i change the temp for instance, does it then change back automatically with what you entered in reprep settings, or is this not the case and does the printer work the same as with ultigcode?
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No one has an answer for his ?
Still the same with 2.6.1 now, meaning i still can not select any material, still it does not calculate cost when slicing and do not know if it will effect my prints.
Either way i want to choose which material i am using:angry:
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Hi Edel,
Don't apply it thin, XTC3D works much better when you use it generously, not to much as most will just drip of but give it a good coating. It will dry up very smooth if you do it like that without any holes. My first attempt was also the same as you and then i found a youtube video where they said the same, apply thick or you will get holes. After that i did multiple prints and all look amazing.
Also do it in a warm enviroment, or heat the bottle up in the sink with some warm water to make it much easier to work with.
Hope this helps as it is really a good product.
Greetz Barry
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Hi Nallath,
I know that but i can not select any other material as the actvate button stays greyed out.
So not able to activate or alter any of the materials, which does work when i try it in previous versions like 2.4.
Greetz Barry
Help!
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted · Edited by phantom
Take out the coupler to see, it seems strange that after you put some filament in by hand that it has improved the quality, seems like a clog to me. You can easily remove the coupler from the head in a few minutes see if the coupler is bad or leaked between the nozzles and coupler.