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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Have you checked that the material enters the nozzle properly and is not stuck on the edge of the white thermocoupler? I had that issue sometimes when printing with FilaFlex. Also oiling the material a little bit also helps witht the feeding. For me the friction got too big but only after the material being fed almost completely into the nozzle.
  2. That's really bad customer service right there Bob! I wasn't the one dealing with them directly so sadly I haven't got any experience with them. Anders - The objects are not 100% transparent, but they're pretty damn good though! The SLA printers all use a UV cured resin and is a thermoset, it doesn't get soft and melt the same way that ABS for example does. I know most SLA materials are stable up to aroung 200 degrees Celsius but I'm not sure about the exact value for the Form+. UV resistance is no good as the material is cures by UV light it will also respond to prolonged sunlight. I woul
  3. Anders - I agree the information is super sparse but in case you haven't seen it, here is the spec sheet for the clear resin. https://s3.amazonaws.com/formlabs-com-assets/Tech+Specs+v8.pdf
  4. We have a Form+ here at the company and it does give prints in good quality for the price of the printer (we also have industrial SLA printers) and does clear objects pretty well, which is always a problem with 3D printing. The major trouble for us is supports - it prints them really densely and it's very hard to get them removed without damageing the surface. At the moment I'm printing objects that require a great surface finish and the quality where the supports are placed is just not good enough for this project. All in all a good printer for the price but expect some support trouble.
  5. I had exactly the same problem whenever I went under 25% the pillows would appear and when I went above I was fine. This was with printing with FilaFlex so I suppose that different materials work better with different patterns. I wish Cura had an option to choose between different patterns.
  6. Thanks guys! The company I work for is pretty large and getting chemicals approved for use (even just for a one time test) is a major pain as it has to go through a couple of different departments. There is a paint room (for mixing paint for the decoration machines) not too far from the printers, I might try and ask them if acetone is allowed in there. I will probably be printing quite a bit in ABS so I'll have to find something that works.
  7. That sounds like something I should try. The problem is that the company I work for (and where the printer are) are seriously strict about chemicals in the production area and I will not be able to use acetone in this setting before it has been approved. This always takes a really long time. Would it be possible for me to acheive proper adhesion for dropping the bed temp if I use glue or hairspray or something similar?
  8. I tried another print with the fan on 45% about halfway through the print and the top half looks great but I'm not too pleased with the bottom that had about 15-20%. It's still better than my first print without the fans but not perfect. I suppose I'll play around with the fan settings a bit more and find the right combination. I'm just worried that too much fan in the beginning of the print might ruin the adhesion?
  9. I have an enclosed chamber but I'll try some of your sugestions when my power comes back on Thank you for your input.
  10. Hi everybody! I've had some trouble with my UM2 and I finally got it up and running today so I was very excited to finally be able to print with ABS (my Ultimaker Orignal only prints PLA properly). But I've run into an issue now. During the print some of the edges would start curling upwards and the printer has to print on top of this curve on every layer and the material builds up. It looks super crappy and eventually I'm pretty sure the print will fail. (I had a power outage so I didn't get to finish it) Pictures of the issue is here. http://imgur.com/a/CdVZ4 Settings: Ultimaker Red
  11. I know that it's not going to work without modifications but I just wanted to know which modifications I would need to look into.
  12. Hey everbody! I have some exciting new materials I would like to test on my Ultimaker 2 or Ultimaker Original but it only comes in 1.75 mm filament diameter. Does anybody have any tips and tricks on how to make this work? Have you tried printing on Ultimakers with 1.75 mm filament and how did it work? Cheers, Cecilie
  13. I can't make it work on the Ultimaker 2 but it works just fine on the Original. Thank you guys for all the help!
  14. So if i try the gcode I sent you on my Ultimaker Original i should be okay?
  15. ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time} ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density} ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line ;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min ends
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