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Posts posted by reibuehl
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Mine is Black FlexPLA. I tried 220 and 210 - unfortunately Ultimaker does not give any advice on speed and temperature on there website/shop.
I printed white FlexPLA in the past successful with the Standard PLA settings of my UM2.
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Another one: If I get quoted like above by @SandervG, the notification shows me:
You have been quoted by reibuehl in general forum feedback.
The quoted by should not be my username but rather the one of the person that quoted me.
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Just to double check, are you looking at the right page?
Sometimes when I click a notification it doesn't take me to the last page, where the last post is.
Not getting to the last page or the last unread post if you click on the notification is a different bug
I am at the last page for all I can see. I would have added the page count on the screenshot, but as multiple people here have already commented, the enormous amount of whitespace in the forum layout didn't allow me to show more than the last post with dates, the notification and the new post editor :(
I was on page 54 of this thread.
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I use the snap on guide and have tightened the tension a few times now without success.
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I keep getting notifications for posts in a thread I follow but can't find any new posts then:
As the screenshot shows, the last post was from 22nd at 4:45pm but the notification is 8hrs old at 8:48 on the 23rd.
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I just tried to insert a picture via the "Image Gallery" link in the post editor, but the only thing that happens is that the scrollbar on the right side of the browser window disappears. Inserting the picture using the Gallery download link via the "External Image" function worked.
Could you elaborate a bit more on the issue you were facing? Which browser did you use, which operating system and which device? This will help us with reproducing the issue you've faced. Thanks!
I am using Firefox 37.0.2 on Windows 7 x64. Firefox has the NoScript plugin configured to allow scripts from the following domains:
- ultimaker.com
- ajax.googleapis.com
- typekit.net
- jsdelivr.net
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No, all the same. I did an Atomic Pull now and tried again, but this time it started already on the Brim - nothing gets printed at all, just clogging of the nozzle. The brim seems to be done faster than the 30mm/s that I have selected for the rest.
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If multiple post have been made, the notification should state the number of new replies and provide a link to the latest new reply. Same for likes but as separate notifications.
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I just tried to insert a picture via the "Image Gallery" link in the post editor, but the only thing that happens is that the scrollbar on the right side of the browser window disappears. Inserting the picture using the Gallery download link via the "External Image" function worked.
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I tried it again with the paper method, but did not get a much better result:
Now the - i think it is underextrusion - starts on the third layer.
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Hi,
I have enormous problems printing Ultimaker Flex PLA. I think the root cause is related to the bed leveling, or more precise the distance between bed and nozzle.
If I level the bed with a sheet of paper, it seems that the nozzle is too close to the bed and the pressure that the feeder can put on the flexible filament is not enough to properly extrude the first layer. The nozzle gets clogged and the feeder eventually grinds into the filament and thats it. I use IRobertI's feeder and have also oiled the bowden a little and if I use the Maintenance --> Advanced --> Move Material function, the extrusion works perfect. Just when printing, it fails.
I tried doing the bed leveling with a 0.10mm thickness gauge in case my paper is too thin, but that seems to be too much gap. The extruded filament is not pressed properly onto the bed, so it is not sticking to it and corners are straightened out to lines. It looks more like laying out a hose than extruding :(
What can I do?
Reiner
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I used to follow the old forum via the RSS feed. Has this been removed from the new forum completely? Are you expecting me to hang out on this site the whole day to see if a little red bell icon comes up to notify me of a new post?
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The Z axis move should show up in the g code as a line starting with G0 or G1 and then Znnn where nnn should be a value like 100 in your case as this is the distance in mm of the move. So something like G0 Z100 would indikate that the slicer for some reason inserts the move. If you do not find something like that, then it should be a problem in the firmware or hardware somewhere. If you find it, then it is a software or parameters issue I would think.
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Strange... I assume you also have no plugins in Cura activated that could cause such a behavior. Have you had a look at the g-code itself yet? A 10cm Z axis movement should stick out there I assume...
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That sounds more like an issue with the g-code you use than with the printer itself. What slicer software do you use? If Cura, have you selected the correct printer model?
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I used to have similar problems in the past and the best method to prevent it for me was to add a door to the UM2 and heat up the room to at least 30°C. In the future I will try to cover the top too to avoid the room heating.
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Wenn Du eh schon alles auseinander nimmst, kannst Du Dir auch überlegen, ob Du nicht gleich auf den Olsson Block von 3Dsolex umstellst. Da hast Du dann auswechselbare Düsen mit verschiedenen Durchmessern. Ich verwende den seit einigen Monaten. Speziell bei größeren Sachen ist eine 0.8mm oder 0.6mm Düse eine feine Sache. Falls Du vorhast, auch ABS zu drucken, würde ich auch den I2K Isolator verbauen, damit Du nicht ständig die Teflon Coupler erneuern musst.
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Reichelt hat den Bowdenschlauch zum Beispiel:
Der passt für UMO und UM2.
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I would definitely get a spare PTFE Coupler as these wear out after a few 100 hours of printing - especially if you print above 230°C. Or better get yourself an http://3dsolex.com/?page_id=2 with and http://3dsolex.com/?page_id=17 that protects the PTFE coupler from the heat of the nozzle. That way you have a longer lasting PTFE coupler and the added benefit of cheap M6 thread nozzles with varying diameters.
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Or maybe convert it to PDF and put it on Youmagine.com?
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Since the nozzle on the Olsson Block sits lower than the original, it should work as long as you always remove the filament and unscrew this nozzle once you want to use the original one.
The easiest modification could be to just add a second heater and temp sensor and coupler (metal and PTFE part) and then switch the bowden. But this might be difficult from the software side since you would need to convince the firmware to run feeder 1 even though temp1 is not correct.
So in the end you will most probably need the whole set including a stepper motor.
So I would also recommend to just install the Olsson block and just change to the steel nozzels if printing abrasive material.
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Going to 260°C with PLA is not a good idea. At that temperature, PLA can carbonize inside the nozzle. You could try http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9928-korneels-method-for-cleaning-hot-ends-um2/ for cleaning the nozzle. Other thinks to look for might be dust in the bowden tube that causes higher friction. I sometimes use a pressured-air can to clean the bowden tube. A few drops of oil on a filament cleaning sponge before it enters the feeder might also help if this is the issue.
Since you have your printer just two weeks, I do not think that the PTFE coupler is already worn out. That usually takes a 2-300 hours of printing or even more if you always print at PLA temperatures.
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I will try them. Thanks!
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Could be that you need to replace the heater cartridge and the temperature sensor too, depending on the way it is broken. I think I would try to take a Dremel to cut a new slit into the broken screw. Do you have a picture?
For parts, check http://3dsolex.com/ they sell the replacement parts and an alternative heating block that has exchangeable nozzles.
Problems printing UM FlexPLA
in Materials & profiles
Posted
I was using the same settings as you suggest, but I will try the minimum layer time checkbox on my next try. I do however assume that this will not have an effect as the layer times are well above the minimum layer time.
My last settings where: