mendells

@bondtech Thanks for running that test! It looks much better than the one I ran using the stock UM2+ feeder. I started seeing pretty severe under extrusion around 80mm/s.

@cjs If you get a chance could you print this mini speed test? I've included the gcode in the download section. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mini-speed-test Edit: Hold on, I just realized my acceleration settings were limiting the speed. :/ Edit: OK its fixed now.

120 mm/s is great! Currently I'm using colorfabb nGen and I start to see under extrusion around 80 mm/s at 0.10 mm layer heights. If you wouldn't mind sharing the gcode I'd like to give it a try on our printers just for comparison sake.

Hi Christopher, Thanks for the information! Could you provide some more specifics on the settings for the speed test image? What layer height, print speed, and material were used? The Bondtech feeder does seem to be a big improvement and we do print a lot of TPU here so it probably makes sense to upgrade. Thanks, Scott

Thanks for the input. I already take ours apart every 6 months or so for cleaning so it isn't a big concern but it is something to think about. Have you been able to increase your print speed at all or are you just seeing more reliable prints?

I was wondering what kind of speeds users with Bondtech extruders are using? My print speeds are fairly low as I have seen quality issues when printing above 40mm/s (using 0.4mm nozzle and 0.1mm layers) and I was curious if Bondtech users have been able to print faster without quality loss? I also noticed they have a new extruder (DDG) for the UM2+ that uses much of the existing UM2+ extruder components. Other than being a slightly lower gear ratio than the QR extruders (311 steps/mm vs 492.45 steps/mm) the drive mechanism is the same, so for $70 less the DDG extruder seems like a good deal. http://shop.bondtech.se/ec/upgrade-kits/ultimaker/ddg-extruder_ultimaker2_en.html

Thanks! I don't know how I missed that :/

Is the tinkergnome "filament_sensor" the same or similar to the marlin "filament runout sensor"? I just got a Filament Sentinel and I'm trying to figure out how to update our firmware to add it in(I am not a code guy and so far it's all been a little out of my comfort zone). I noticed there is a "FILAMENT_SENSOR_PIN -1" in the pins.h and "FILAMENT_SENSOR_PIN=30" in the package.sh (which I cannot for the life of me figure out how to make work). So i'm just wondering if the filament sensor is already set up and If I can just plug the signal pin into PC7 and have it work without having to load new firmware?

They have an UM2/UM2+ kit that just replaces the stock feeder so I would assume it's still a bowden setup. I have found the stock extruder slips with TPU/TPE filements. I have some SemiFlex and standard NinjaFlex and I can't get those to print because the feeder just slips before enough pressure can be built up. I've only really had success with NinjaTek Cheetah and Armadillo. Do you see any improvement with the bondtech vs the stock feeder with ninjaflex or are they comparable?

Has anyone had any experience with the Bondtech extruders? They have a video of them printing ninjaflex at 60 mm/s and I was wondering if it would be worth the upgrade?

I've been printing with Cheetah for a while now with varying degrees of success. BuildTak sheets help a lot in keeping parts stuck to the bed. My usual print settings are: Print Setup: Nozzle: 0.4 mm Layers: 0.2 mm Speed: 20-30 mm/s (all) Fill Gaps Between Walls: Nowhere Retraction Extra Prime Amount: 0.128 mm^3 Material Settings: Temp: 235º Bed Temp: 70º Fan Speed: 100% Flow Rate: 130% Retraction Length: 6.0 mm Retraction Speed: 20 mm/s I have had some success printing smaller layers but if there are too many retracts it begins to under extrude and if you reduce the retraction length you get a lot of stringing. I've thought about buying a Luzbot just for doing Ninjaflex as it has a direct extruder instead of a bowden. Edit: Thought I should add that I've found keeping the filament dry is critical. Any moisture will cause under extrusion.

True, there are other factors that would need to be addressed (some of those items I have already taken care of) but the 0.9º stepper would provide better mechanical resolution without any major changes. I am simply curious if anyone has tried it and experienced any positive results.

Has anyone tried replacing their XY motors with a 0.9º stepper motor? I found one that should fit (or require very little modification) but wanted to know if anyone has already tried this? My goal is to increase the accuracy to be able to hold +/-.001" (0.025mm) tolerances on parts. I usually print at slow speeds (20-40mm/s) so I'm not worried about the loss of speed.

I finally got the new glass and it is far better than the stock Ultimaker glass. The original glass varied by about .020" and the new glass only varies by about .004" (I'll get a new video when I can). I have also found that the parts also stick much better to the glass. I'm not sure why exactly but I would guess that it is because there is more even pressure across the bottom layer as the part cools.

Yes I am aware that this method is susceptible to other factors including the rods being bent or the frame bring off but it does show the difference between the flat glass and the warped glass. I have checked both sheets on a grant slab with an indicator and the ultimaker glass is significantly warped compered to the borosilicate. You are correct in that the borosilicate glass is not manufactured specifically for flatness but is is significantly better than the stock glass regardless. I have also noticed a change in the flatness of the ultimaker glass at higher temperatures (60-100C), but this may be due to the aluminum it's mounted to not necessarily the glass itself.