mghtbgiant

But, the Venkel mount with tape over the hotend gap seems to be doing the trick as well.

Ugh.. maybe not. making the slot for the aluminum would be horizontal which would require some rework on the model.. so, for now, i just slapped the Venkel mount back on with the quick-fix of Kapton across the bottom just to see if that will work. I think the Spirit mount will work great if the mount tabs are given just a skosh more height and make the screw slots adjustable vertically. This should allow the bottom of the mount to hang below the hotend enough to not warp. I was actually quite surprised when I removed the mount to see the Kapton wasn't warped.. but the plastic under it was. That's some pretty awesome stuff!

I printed mine in ColoFabb XT for better heat resistance over PLA. But, even WITH the Kapton tape, it warped on the bottom. I think you're right about the bottom.. maybe I should modify it with a channel to slide in a thin piece of aluminum (from a soda can or something) and remove the plastic covering the hotend altogether. I think I like that idea. The Kapton tape would work in the interim but will eventually fail when the heat ruins the adhesive. I wonder if I have a punch to pop the hole into the aluminum piece. Or, I could probably just use an Xacto knife. I'll see if I can get something whipped up today for this. In any case, I'm happy that the printer worked fine and it was just a matter of the fans overcooling the hotend.

As a follow-up to my previous post. I finally got the Kapton tape for use on Spirit's fan mount. I'm happy to report, my printer is functioning as expected and hasn't had the dreaded "Heater Error" with this new mount. I am printing something really small so it'll only be going for about 20 minutes, but before, as soon as the fans kicked on, the printer would crash. That said, I made a small modification to Spirit's mount as I couldn't get the ears on top to print very well. And, I'm going to make another mod to where I can adjust the mount vertically. Part of my first modification was to change the mount holes from the oblong (horizontally variable) holes to standard rounds. Now, with all the Kapton tape, the mount/tape rests against the hotend which I don't want.

Evan, what do you have to report?! I have also printed Spirit's fan mount and am currently waiting the roll of Kapton tape. I wonder if the design (which covers the hotend, isolating it from the fan-blow) would help this issue. I'm still unsure as to the best way to solve this. I understand the point of the new check. If we are using a modified fan-mount, should we lower the fan speeds in the expert settings? If so, what is a good range? It's my understanding that when the fans kick on, they cool the hotend to the point where the software things there's a malfunction. So, again, maybe Spirit's design, which covers the hotend, will help minimize the fans cooling of the hotend which should, in theory, help (if not solve) the issue. My Kapton tape should be here today or tomorrow. Once I get it, I will install and update to the latest firmware. I will run some tests as before, with Venkel's mount, my printer would error out the instant the fans kicked on.

Daid, could you supply a picture of a properly/improperly inserted sensor? I checked mine over and it looks pretty firmly seated (and I could not wiggle it in any direction, but didn't want to get rough with it either). At one point, I did have a failed print blob make its way up and around those wires but was very delicate in removing them and have never had any issues. I just cleaned up a little more of that leftover gunk while I was checking it out and put everything back together. Right now, I'm running a print with ColorFabb XT which I find to be a lot more finicky than standard PLA. But, the fill print looks like garbage. At this point, I'm not sure if it's firmware or something mechanical I did. I have re-leveled the platform multiple times. I checked all wires/connections. Everything seems to be in order. I'm going to let the print continue to see how the final product fares. After this, I will throw on some PLA and test whether I get the same results. I've printed enough with this XT that I have it dialed in.. but, it's not looking so great right now. \=

I had this same error. I was coming from 14.09. I have had 3 catastrophic fails now. It's almost like it's pulling more amperage or something because I have my UM2 plugged into a battery backup and this flipped the breaker in it. I usually have my printer AND an UV heater plugged in and both going without any issues. Also, I, too, was using the latest 14.12.1. Additionally, I see nothing about "Marlin" firmware in my Cura install. Under "Machine" in the top menu I have a link for "Install default firmware..." I'm only offering this as clarification for any other users who might not see what you mentioned and get confused by that. I was really hoping to get a print ran tonight but I just HAD to upgrade the firmware first.. Looks like I'll be rolling back in the morning.

Oh cool. Thanks. It's exciting to know there are major updates coming.

Awesome. I picked up some 6mm acrylic so I might be able to use these as a reference to create some that are 1mm wider where they need to be! There are so many different enclosure ideas out there! Thanks for your help!

3Poro.. Would you be willing to share your STLs for the front door catches? I am going to get some plexiglass cut here very soon and like your solution for the door the best out of all of the options I've seen. Thanks for any help!

patiwat_kamonpet would you be willing to share your model/STL files for the snap-channel for the acrylic? Same for the design of the door channel and handle. I am leaning towards doing a similar design but I'm, at best, barely a novice when it comes to 3D design. Also, did you print the rounded white piece on the rear of your printer above the filament spool? I'm looking to purchase some 6mm/ 1/4" acrylic/plexiglass from my local hardware store in the next couple days. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Awesome. In any case, it worked perfectly. Through all these iterations I saved off a copy of the objects pre-modifiers because in Blender once when you apply a modifier (solidify, boolean, etc) it's done. And, I kept having issues so I ended up saving off a copy pre-modifier.... In any case, thanks so much for your direction. I now understand what people mean when they say "watertight" in terms of a mesh/object. From the crux of this conversation, I was able to get everything kosher and that's pretty awesome. Thanks so much!!

And, is there a good keyboard shortcut to do something like this? Can I use the existing cone that has the solidify already applied? I just need to create a new object from the interior surface vertices. At this point, since I don't know all of the 10 billion keyboard shortcuts, it'd be faster for me on my own to just recreate the cone, duplicate it, then solidify one of them. Or, would it be just the same to duplicate the existing solidified cone and shrink it a fraction and use that for boolean->difference. It might be 6 one/half-dozen of the other. In any case, thanks again for the help! This is actually my first model that I've created and printed and it's a pretty good feeling!

Ahh, understood. I think when I exported to STL the objects were independent. So, you're saying if I boolean->union them, provided all surfaces touch, they should then create a single object. And, if I'm following, then the slicer will know where to put fill. Is that correct? And, thanks so much! This new world (3D design/printing) is pretty friggin awesome!

Here's an image of the final product with the intersection of the handle and cone cut away.

OR, is there something post-design where i can "fake" it being a solid mesh and make the slicing engine add the fill? I have both Cura and NetFabb.

I know. And I think your interpretation is accurate. I had a solid cylinder that was the T-handle, I then cut away the part that intersected the cone. Sorry for the massive pics, maybe the forum engine will resize them into thumbnails. In any case, as I said, I think what you're saying is accurate. Where I'm at, as an absolute amateur designer (I just touched Blender for the first time last week) is, I'm sure there's a "trick" or the "right-way" to go about this. I need the handle to be treated as a solid mesh but at the same time, need the underside (inside the cap) to be cut away.

Awesome! Thanks for the response! I'm pretty novice still, but that seems to be a feature I continually desire. EDIT: One thing I forgot to mention is I did download the beta version of Cura 14.12-RC9. I do not know if this is "Pink Unicorn" but I see no manner of selectively applying a brim/skirt to independent parts in here. Thanks again!

I don't know how else to put that and I'm having a very hard time finding any information on what I'm experiencing. I'm sure it's something relatively common and should be addressed more by the design/modeling side. I created an object in blender. Let's say its a hollow cylindrical/coned cap with a T-handle. When I first printed it, the underside of the T-handle was present in the model (so, a solid object in Blender). However, there is an issue where I need to cut that away and take the interior of the cone to the top of the inside of the T-handle. So, when I cut away the part of the T-handle that intersects the cone (and makes exactly the object I want), I lose all the fill/support in the T-Handle and it just prints the exterior shell of the handle which is VERY weak/brittle. I need the fill. Is there some black-magic design trickery to do in Blender to build into the STL so that Cura will see that there is fill in the handle? Was my approach the culprit? I'm guessing my process is moderately to blame as I'm a complete novice trudging my way through Blender one semi-relevant YouTube video at a time. Can anything be done in NetFabb or Cura after the fact to FORCE fill in these voids? Any help is greatly appreciated!!

I was wondering if there is a plan, in a future Cura release, for selective part brims/skirts. In essence, if I want to print 10 random pieces, 3 of which need brims/skirts, it would be very nice to right-click to enable brims on the desired objects as opposed to all/none. Right now, I just do things in multiple prints which requires multiple SD card swaps and print runs.