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3poro last won the day on August 6 2015

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  1. Hello Sander! The boxes above the power cord are (from the top) the M542H stepper motor driver and a no-frills 24VDC power supply. The latter is powering the new stepper motor as well as my print head fans (front + rear). Here's my latest print, an enclosure for a quite simple electric device: These specific parts don't have any tricky overhangs or otherwise challenging structures, but to get them printed some mods are vital. Warping has to be eliminated completely and layer-to-layer adhesion has to be really good. I'm very happy with the results: the feel is very solid. The Olsson block I haven't tried yet. The UM2 original nozzle block serves me quite well - it's just quite a pain to replace. One more photo of my UM2:
  2. For ABS, I really recommend closing the printing chamber. Here's my printer: Actually, I have found it important to make the enclosure pretty tight. If there are holes/gaps in the enclosure, you'll feel the smell of ABS much more strongly. The enclosure also helps in reducing noise from fans. In my case that's quite important, not least as I have added cooling for the print head.
  3. I only buy stuff I can afford to mess with Here's how my UM2 now looks like:
  4. Thank you! Actually, I started to think about cooling for the motherboard as well. The circuit board around the stepper motor drivers for X and Y axes had yellow/light brown tint - so the temperatures must get pretty high.
  5. Hello. Long time, no me. I've been fighting on other frontiers... Every now and then I've been printing bits an pieces, but nothing ambitious at all - partly because the performance of my UM2 was compromised. For Xmas gifts, I printed some Xmas trees and I used Formfutura's "glow in the dark" ABS - which turned out to be very abrasive: The block I had on my printer didn't produce very good print quality anymore. I knew I should have simply changed the nozzle, but I pushed the thought back as I guessed I would have to re-make my self-made temperature sensor. When I inserted it to the nozzle block several months ago, I realized the fit was a bit too tight. Now, when removing it from the nozzle block, it didn't come out in one piece. I should have thought about it before. To the new nozzle block I drilled a hole for pushing the temperature sensor out. Okay, so I took the time to change the nozzle and re-make the temperature sensor - and I managed to get a few nice prints out from my UM2. Then, I started having under-extrusion problems... nostalgic feeling, or something. After "some" troubleshooting, I realized the problem was in the stepper motor - or its driver. The torque just wasn't there anymore. Maybe it's me to blame - I have used the extruder stepper motor with 1.5A current. Maybe now this practice took its toll: Great - so my UM2 motherboard needed changing. But wait - there was a reason why I felt I had to use the 1.5A stepper motor current - and even that didn't feel to be always enough. Before my UM-break, I had already ordered this kind of stepper motor: http://www.robotdigg.com/product/29/Nema17-60mm-1.5A-high-torque-stepper-motor But, if the standard stepper motor can be too much for the Pololu driver, probably the new stepper motor would kill it even faster? So, my UM2 motherboard needed changing but even that wouldn't have satisfied me. I decided to bypass the dead Pololu altogether and use an external stepper motor controller. I decided to try to make it in a way I wouldn't need to make a custom firmware - so, I had to remove the dead Pololu: ...and bypass it: The contrast on the picture is a bit misleading - the board looks more clean to naked eye. Most importantly, the hack works. Now the critical digital outputs (pulse, direction, enable) are taken out from the UM2 motherboard to an external stepper motor controller. I happened to have an M542H stepper motor driver waiting to be used - so now I have a lot of headroom in case I need an even more powerful stepper motor for my extruder I decided to use the existing extruder connector for the digital outputs - so I have to remember not to plug a stepper motor directly to the connector anymore. I really need to catch up with Anders Olsson's work, the original UM2 heater/nozzle block has caused me too much headache...
  6. Absolutely I can share the STL files: https://www.dropbox.com/s/gi3qxp9en3va42q/front_door_fixtures.zip?dl=0 They assume 5mm wall thickness and some rubber/foam tightener between the door and the printer. My door is 30cm in height and 28cm in width; the top edge of it is right under the "Ultimaker" text. For the handles I used 4mm bolts and nuts. Let me know if the files are of any help; I only designed the parts for myself, but I'm happy if they can serve somebody else as well
  7. glloq - any updates? So far, my experiences with Vespel washer have been very good. Having said that, I did have to drill it a bit to make its inner diameter match the diameter of my Teflon isolator. Ultimaker's translucent PLA (green) caused me headache. First, it's very tightly wound to its reel, so the feeder had trouble fetching it. I had to unwind the filament to another reel (and back) in order to lower the burder on the feeder. Then, there were extrusion problems - I believe the threshold (3.3mm->3.1mm in my case) between PTFE isolator and Vespel washer was to blame. I was thinking about making an isolator purely out of Vespel, but I'm concerned about friction. If Duratron doesn't have problems with friction, maybe Vespel would be OK as well...
  8. Here you can find a conversion table for Pt100: http://dev.emcelettronica.com/files/u4/Fig0058_0.png To me 142 Ohms seems somewhat high. In my opinion you should get the bed changed. If that's not an option, you can also try to get a new Pt100 sensor for your build plate. The Pt100 sensors are widely available; you just need to make sure the new sensor is properly fixed to the build plate with some thermal adhesive. (BTW - I now see your location fine on your profile.)
  9. Seems very interesting! A few questions I have seen comments about all-metal extruders having trouble with PLA. Have you encountered any problems with PLA? Does your dual extruder reach the same speed and build volume as the UM2 stock extruder? What has been the primary use case(s) you have prioritized in your R&D? Soluble support material? Two colors? Different nozzle diameters? Something else? Some photos of printed models would be great
  10. Cool! (Well, not literally) I had thought 260C would already be on the limit for PLA - but you got good prints with 310C? How easy/difficult is it to machine Duratron?
  11. Ja. (No, I don't speak Dutch.) More details in English... Your Teflon isolators seem pretty much the same as mine when they got worn out. You can see a photo and detailed discussion here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7024-teflon-spacer-replacement/?p=67737 Basically, when there's such a distinct ridge, retraction doesn't work anymore normally - the prints will come out under-extruded.
  12. My biggest ABS prints have been 205x205mm in size (X/Y) and I don't think it's possible to go much bigger than that due to need for raft. Otherwise it's doable, it will take a lot of time though.
  13. If I would have needed to touch the SW side of things, I would certainly appreciate the open source approach a lot. I have some thoughts about what Cura should do better, but I can live with it as it is now - and I'm too busy to start coding the improvements myself. At some point I may want to go beyond 260C, then I'll have to start diving into the software - unless I make a HW shortcut http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7710-print-more-than-260ºc-with-a-um2/?p=72634 What comes to hardware modifications, the community is actually more important than "open source" (OK, the latter might catalyze the community, but this gets a bit off-topic). If you see all the crazy mods people are making to their quadcopters, PCs, cars etc - source code is for sissies ...and Ultimaker certainly offers the community. Without it, there would be too much of unnecessary/redundant work. I'm trying to share my mods to get feedback and to help others... Sometimes I'm a bad boy and I'm making stuff the "old school" way. If I would have made my feeder stepper motor fixture 3D-printable, I would highly recommend it: ...but at the time of the mod, my UM2 was waiting for spare parts - so I had to use saw and drill instead
  14. I mostly agree. If I was printing exclusively PLA, I wouldn't have had many problems. No need for closed chamber, maybe not even need for new temperature sensor, additional insulation for the Teflon isolator etc. However, if you use ABS at least part of the time, even PLA becomes a headache - here's why: When you print ABS (or otherwise use high temperatures which are likely to cause the Teflon isolator to deform), PLA seems to get stuck to the ridges easier than ABS. This is probably due to its lower melting point and its hardness. My experience is - a half-used PTFE isolator might still serve you for ABS prints, but it will let you down when printing PLA. Printing ABS very easily leaves some ABS dust to the Bowden tube, feeder and extruder. As PLA is printed with lower temperatures, the ABS particles easily cause the nozzle to get clogged - or partly clogged. Changing from ABS to PLA needs to be done carefully and it makes sense to start printing PLA with as high temperature as possible. Some of the problems with ABS can certainly be avoided by using PLA - and PLA only. However, when ABS printing works, the parts are really pleasant to work with.
  15. Good question. Either my prints are peculiar or I'm particularly demanding - or I was particularly unlucky with my UM2 (as it was out-of-box). Well - I am demanding and I am prone to having trouble with my hardware. What comes to my prints, here are some of the latest prints from my desk: The filament reel is there for scale. Most of my prints are ABS with 100% infill, half of them have print times of over 12 hours - all the way up to 100+ hours. As I'm using them together with other components, their geometry needs to be consistent. To me it looks like others are mostly printing some sort of sculptures coming from fantasy/sci-fi scenes As long as I didn't have my printing chamber closed, most of my prints came out warped. I did try different settings, different bed adhesion tricks etc - but I couldn't fight warping. For me, UM2 became really useful after mod #7. Maybe partly due to closed chamber (which increases the temperatures inside the printer), I really needed mods #5, #6 and #8. I have noticed I'm not alone - there are posts by other people addressing the same issues. IMHO, the original UM2 nozzle temperature sensor does not meet its specifications. Also, I certainly wasn't alone with my Teflon isolator problems. What I'm actually most surprised about is the (relative) lack of discussion about the filament path. There are some mods around by different people, but it looks like it's not a huge problem for most. Maybe my lengthy prints set untypical requirements for it, I don't know. However, I couldn't really live with the original design. Significant part of my prints failed as the filament got tangled or didn't come out from the reel or got eaten by the knurled wheel. The good news is - now I finally feel my UM2 serves pretty well as a tool. It feels reliable and it produces high-quality prints. A few months ago most of my activities with the printer were around fixing/improving the printer itself.
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