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Posts posted by paul9
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Ciao ti interessa ancora una UM 2+ in perfette condizioni a 1150 euro?
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Today I did a factory reset and after that I started to have the following problems.
The printer creates problems after printing the first layer.
The subsequent layers of filling are all detached one with each other.
I tried to lower the current values of the stepper motors first to 1100 mA and then to 1000mA but nothing changed.
Where is the problem?
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Hi any of you can help me understand how to install and edit the printing area for this fan duct solution?
I also wrote to the creator but he did not answer me.
I would like to understand what the Stl file called Switch is and what it is used for.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/super-fan-duct-for-ultimaker-delicious-clam
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I used temp 209°C nozzle size 0.4 bed temp 54°C height 0.1
I'm very disappointed with the part about the bridges.
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I stopped printing with the third fan duct (ZetOff) because it was too bad.
Labern fan duct is winning, but I would also like to try the delicious clam solution.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/super-fan-duct-for-ultimaker-delicious-clam
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why don't you get Labern's sintered in metal
I still use his design and although I have done my own (for the Mar2) Mod its a good design
Hi Bob,
I bought the metal model in china but I will only arrive in September so in the meantime I was looking for a good solution.
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If you need plenty of cooling you can also take a look at the centrifugal fanduct by @gudo
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-centrifugal-fans-duct
I have used it for 6 months and could not be happier...printed in PLA and no major issues with heat since the part closest to the nozzle is a piece of aluminium sheet from a can.
You need to buy new fans though since it uses blower fans and not the ones that comes with the printer.
Hi nilrog
Thank you for this information!
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Metal doesn't bend
ok :-D
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I use the one from @labern on my UM2 (dual version). It's advantage is the nice air guidance with low resistance, it's disadvantage is that the material comes pretty close to both nozzle and Olsson Block which leads to some deformations even as I printed it in PC.
I also used it until some time ago but then printing ABS or PC I always deformed so I was looking for a definitive solution or better that would not deform and that it is distant of the hot-end.
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Just pick one that you like the look of and im sure you will be happy
I have problems with prints at the moment, I can not cool enough so I need a good solution to send so much air during printing.
What advice do I use to use your idea?
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Hi to all !
Hi paul9 !
Have you tried calibrating the extruder to see how much your outing outI think bob-hepple is right,
Independently of the material diameter use,
The extruder Estep calibration was the first thing to do, it's easy to do if you use the Tinkergnome firmware. ( hightly recommanded)
If use the UM2+ Extruder , here the process
With the rotary button, clic on Tinker control board
Advanced
Preference
Motion settings
Axis steps mm
clic on E "nnn.nn" the value indicated (note this)
clic on it to change it by this new value : 341.62
do not forget to clic on "Store" before go back
Done !
This will be a good average base, (may be it will need to adjust a bit if use the Tom's guide process for sample)
Here the math formula
Esteps/mm = (Nr.motor steps rev * Nr.driver micro steps) * (Nr.big gear teeth / Nr.small gear teeth) / (effective grooved gear diameter * PI)
Extruder UM2+ - Nema 17-200-16 and 36T/11T reduction gears
Deep groove gear diameter 9.75mm
(200*16) * (36/11) / (9.75*3.1416) = 341.62
Thank you Gudo,
But I understand after some considerations that actually the problem is not overextrusion but cooling. I can not immediately cool the material while printing and create an effect that seems to be over extrusion.
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I don't say this is your problem but it would not hurt to check what your system is doing, personally I would check.
Thank you Bob!
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Have you tried calibrating the extruder to see how much your outing out
No, I did not even try because I did not know how to do it.
How do I do this calibration?
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Do you use the default temperatures for the 0.4mm and 0.6mm nozzle or did you change those values in the firmware?
I've changed, I've tried different temperatures from 206 to 210 degrees Celsius.
Cerco stampante UM2 o UM2 Go
in Italiano
Posted
Ciao, si è disponibile.
è stata comunque convertita per i filamenti da 1,75mm e non da 2.85 e come feeder ho montato il migliore al mondo il Bondtech che mi è costato 220 euro.