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Posts posted by paul9
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Yea 197.00 esteps should work, but it might not be perfect and should be adjusted.
I was just joking don't worry
Thanks!
but I can not figure out where I need to enter this value, you can give the full process of where to insert the calculated value?
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Dont skip decimal points it's 10.91*3.1415=34.2737
That for the um2 motor is n the calculator says 186.73 and now that value you add a 5.5% so 197.00 esteps as starting point
Next time don't be lazy and read all
It is not laziness, and I did not understand well.
My English is not good.
And now with that value as I proceed to apply it in my UM2?
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I will have to ask another piece of information. I currently have installed the m16 spacer 38mm but I think it is correct to 37 mm What can you tell me about you?
On that matter I can't comment, just because I use a customized 60mm m3 screw where I insert printed spacers to make a custom sized m3. What I know is that 1.75mm doesn't need to be 'really tight' it's more weak and also it doesn't need that much force to extrude (vs 2.85mm) so it's a trial/error preference. Over time you will end knowing how much force it's ok for each filament.
Value is 11 mm
after 11x3,14=34,54 and later this value as part of the site so I'll have to inseire?
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Could you try to print towers, of 1-2-3cm on the same print but spaced, to check the Z? They don't need to big big on width, but just tall.
Ok I take your advice and I will do this test to see what happens.
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Ok I take your advice and I will do this test to see what happens.
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The strings might be caused by retraction being switched off, so that the nozzle leaks while traveling. Have you checked that?
The thick line at the height of the top of the big part, might be caused by the sudden change in area of the part. This suddenly gives a different cooling time of the next layer (actually less time to cool), which often shows up in my prints too. Try printing cooler or print two or three parts at the same time, and see if that helps.
The thinner part halfway seems like: or underextrusion, or there is something wrong with the Z-movement (which you already addressed).
Does this occur only when the printer has been off for some time? Or always? And always at the same *height* (for objects of different size too), or always at the same *time* after starting?
If it would always occur at the same height, also for different objects, I would think of something wrong in the Z-axis.
If that underextrusion would only occur after the printer has been off for hours, and always around the same *time* after the start (when printing at the same speed), could it be that a part of the filament has been flattened in the feeder, due to being too long under pressure? And that that flattened piece is now too wide and has difficulty getting through the print head, coupler and nozzle? You could write a black mark on the filament with an alcohol marker, just before it is entering the feeder, and see if that mark just moves up to the feeder when the problem occurs?
I am just thinking aloud...
My printer worked lately, but this release is the second I've done since I installed the kit and 1,75mm from the new feeder adapted MK8 for filaments from 1,75mm.
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This is correct site? http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
In this part of the site I have to enter the data that I have calculated?
Stepper Motors
Steps per millimeter - belt driven systems
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I will have to ask another piece of information. I currently have installed the m16 spacer 38mm but I think it is correct to 37 mm What can you tell me about you?
On that matter I can't comment, just because I use a customized 60mm m3 screw where I insert printed spacers to make a custom sized m3. What I know is that 1.75mm doesn't need to be 'really tight' it's more weak and also it doesn't need that much force to extrude (vs 2.85mm) so it's a trial/error preference. Over time you will end knowing how much force it's ok for each filament.
Ok I understand. Thank you
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I will have to ask another piece of information. I currently have installed the m16 spacer 38mm but I think it is correct to 37 mm What can you tell me about you?
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Hi,
Yes this is correct!
Half of the nozzle size for layer height is safe, you can even go higher, i don't recall the max but i think it's 75% of the nozzle size you can go up to.
Thank you!
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I have only two days a block Olsson and I wanted to understand how to set up in the best of care methods for printing with different nozzles.
For example, with a nozzle 0.6 is correct set the parameters as in the picture?
you can reduce printing time without much compromise print quality?
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It's explained on the post but
M92 E97.6
M500
M92 E sets the esteps
M500 Writes the change on the printer memory.
Remember to add a 'return' after M500 or the gcode won't be executed.
As soon you have the correct esteps value, you make a text file with that 3 lines and you name it something.gcode or anyname.gcode
The three lines are
1st Line: M92 E97.6 (with other numbers ofc that will be the esteps)
2nd Line: M500 (this command saves the new esteps into the printer memory
3rd Line: Empty, but must exist to ensure you placed a 'return key' at the end of line 2.
But how do I understand or know the correct steps value?
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Read this
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21533-where-to-edit-firmware-esteps-for-um2
Also tinkergnome firmware allows to change it using the screen on the um2.
I can not find a guide to show me how to change motor steps as you said to me.
I'm no expert and I've never done something like that, you can indicate a tutorial that explains step by step how to do this procedure.
Thank you.
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Congratulations on a successful conversion!
Thanks
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you can reduce the retraction distance of 3.2 mm also on Ultimaker2?
and the retraction speed that value must have?
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Yeah you will need to readjust the esteps.
Read from 'The feeder'
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20556-ultimaker-original-175mm-filament-conversion
Where do I change these values? (Motor Step angle: 0.9º (400th) for Ultimaker 2)
I can not find them on the settings panel of my Ultimaker 2.
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Looks pretty good!
Thanks
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Hi neotko, thanks!
I wanted to know if I mount the MK8 component must make anceh of the machine software changes?
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Yesterday I converted my Ultimaker 2 to the filaments from 1,75mm.
My choice was desired for the simple reason that it is much easier to find in nature, and different colored filaments with a diameter of 1,75mm to 2,85mm that.
After changing the extruder block with a suitable provided by 3Dsolex, I also changed the feeder that so far had been to the factory with all the problems we now know all owners of a UM2.
I mounted feeder IRobertl modified to filaments from 1,75mm.
At a time of mounting the component MK8 with 5mm I had to give up the mount because this prevented me to add another important component to guide the thread as you can see from the attached photos.
I then reassembled the one provided in the original version of the feeder.
For now it seems that all is well, but I would ask all of you how to mount a MK8 system that is smaller.
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I would also probably suggest to clean the threaded Z-rod!
How do proper cleaning and lubrication z axis then?
Problem feeder for my UM2 conversion filaments 1,75mm
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
hi guys!
Are two days that I have converted my UM2 to the filaments from 1,75mm but the prints despite the high quality setting with CARE software are not always good, indeed in some cases like this are really worse than when I printed with the same parameters the filaments from 2,85mm.
I have to improve the feeder according sentento me and the other the problem seems to be the feeder.
I mounted a IRobertl adapted to the filaments from 1,75mm but I perferzionare the part of the speed of thrust and retraction of the filament.