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paul9

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Posts posted by paul9

  1. Hi everybody!

    A year ago I decided to convert my Ultimaker 2 into 2+.

    I've seen that you could buy from 3D Solex an Olsson kit that used 1.75mm filaments.

    So I decided to convert my Ultimaker 2 with the 3D Solex Olsson kit and also buy the feeder kit from Bondtech for 1.75mm filaments so I do not have any problem.

    Unfortunately, for a year, every time I print I have problems with overextrusion.

    I modified the firmware using the one developed by Tinkergnome and I am forced to modify the flow of material by reducing the flow from 100% to 68% when the print is vertical while I have to increase it to 75% when mold horizontal parts all if I use the ' 0.6 mm nozzle.

    If instead I use the 0.4mm nozzle things change again I need to increase the flow values.

    All this without being able to get perfect prints as it was before the conversion.

    It's been a year since I'm going to make changes to the flow but I always have a lot of extrusion, a flow of material that comes out.

    VistaFrontale.thumb.jpg.ad5021a47e1f66d7b19fb2a43dd6005e.jpg

    Vista_Piana.thumb.jpg.201ba37dfbb153a7b1ea4816d47be7e1.jpg

    VistaFrontale.thumb.jpg.ad5021a47e1f66d7b19fb2a43dd6005e.jpg

    Vista_Piana.thumb.jpg.201ba37dfbb153a7b1ea4816d47be7e1.jpg

  2. Last year I decided to convert my ultimaker 2 into version 2+.

    Before the conversion I saw that 3D Solex offered the possibility of converting it also for 1.75mm filaments and then I decided to buy the Olsson extrusion kit for 1.75mm filaments then I also bought from Bondtech the filament feeder for 1 , 75mm and since I converted the machine I have overextruder problems, I had to reduce the flow from 100% to 65% with 0.6mm and 70% nozzle with 0.4mm nozzle but despite all I can not make perfect prints like It was first with filaments of 2.85mm.

    What can depend on this problem of having too much material flow?

  3. What's the temperature on the room of the printer?

    27° Celsius

    Try to remove the plastic cover on your printer, so the board cools faster. Also if you have, JUST TO TEST, place a fan pointing at the bottom of the printer / board. And test again.

    Ok Thanks!

  4. Could you rephrase this question: Can you tell me if I can test the engine that I used to use as a feeder in substitution for one of the two that are now moving along x and y?

    I have a hard time understanding it, sorry. Are you talking about the top being slightly flatter, or the small seemingly layer misalignment?

     

    I'm talking about the fact that at some point in the printing phase there was again a discontinuation of the print but then came back.

    It seems to me that the problem is one of the two stepping motors running the x and y directions.

    I replaced the engine running the printer feeder, but the engine seems to be the same as the two, I wanted to know if it really is so and if I can do a test reusing it with mounted on a pulley instead of one of the two present ones.

  5. I believe X and Y only

    Now as you can see in this photo, printing conditions are much better.

    However, it remains at the height of the central hole yet another very evident phenomenon of translation which then did not continue.

    Can you tell me if I can test the engine that I used to use as a feeder in substitution for one of the two that are now moving along x and y?

    Does this print confirm that the translation problem is given by the stepping motors?

    um.thumb.jpg.89887571c1f1749dc9eb07d9cd2b2c36.jpg

  6. Lets see how we can bring those numbers down, but first wait to see what happens with your current tuned down to 1100.

    Lets see if it finishes a couple of prints successfully and if there is any layershift at all.

    Hi SandervG,

    1100 even for z or just for x and y?

  7. I have similar problem.

    While I was printing with my UM2 after two hours of printing on 6 totals and where everything went well, I heard a strange noise, a stroke lasting just a moment probably from one of the engines, and then the print moved And he began to print in a translucent way by constantly moving them until I had to abort the print.

    I have already checked the pulleys and straps for two days, I have cleaned the straps of the belts on the pulley.

    I read that you can lower the motor current to 1100 mA.

    I have not tried this thing yet.

    I supported the original feeder with one of the BondTech I wanted to know if the engine I removed by changing the pulley I can possibly use instead of a present on x or y.

    finale.thumb.jpg.905dbc3e54b382b5864395cecfa1f4ce.jpg

    fd.thumb.jpg.9855e9d6b282bd939e1752940a4ca21a.jpg

    finale.thumb.jpg.905dbc3e54b382b5864395cecfa1f4ce.jpg

    fd.thumb.jpg.9855e9d6b282bd939e1752940a4ca21a.jpg

  8. Another issue that we've recently found out about is overheating of the stepper drivers due to an error in a revision of the board. Long story short, try lowering the current to the motors via Maintenance -> Advanced -> Motion settings -> Current X-Y. Default is 1300mA, try 1200mA.

     

    Hi IRobertI

    Can I lower this value on the two x and y steppers of my UM2?

  9. Could be a backlash issue. Check the short belts on the stepper motors. Make sure they're fairly tight.

    An easy test for this is to print 2-3 concentric rings and see  if they are truly round or not. See the image to the left here:

    http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#circles

    Hi Robert,

    What is the (backlash issue)?

    Are my belts lining material on toothed wheels on which they are turning almost 3 years old, maybe should they be replaced?

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