Labern

Hey there. One good method is to put it in the freezer and it will pop straight off. Are you trying to remove it while the glass is still hot or warm as it will still hold on stong if this is the case.

If the parts were designed as an assembly with the same reference point. When you merge the parts in cura then they refer back to this reference point so the desired placement isn't lost. When they are first imported they will be 2 parts on the bed. You can select each part and per model settings and which extruder etc. Then merge the parts and they will then snap together as an assembly.

Hey there. It doesn't look like it has modeled the screw in inventor and it's only showing an indicator that it's a threaded hole. You may need to get the thread modeller add in for inventor so it actually creates a threaded model.

Hey there. Due to the nature of how 3D printing works there can be shrinkage on ID of holes. As it's extruding in a circular motion the material tends to pull inwards. A lot of people design parts and add .2 or .3mm or so for holes in their designs to cater for this. Now there are features in cura like hole horizontal expansion to help make it more accurate. There are many factors that can alter the accuracy. Speed, temp, material etc.

You Picture shows that you have selected S3 printer but you title say S2. was this a typo or do you have a UM2?

This is due to the UM2+ only having one nozzle on the LHS of the print head. This makes it not possible for it to print all the way to the RHS edge of the bed

The best way to remove it is to manually heat the nozzle, start the temp low so the filament is firm on outside but pliable on the heater block. This helps it pull off cleaner. then using some long nose pliers pull the bulk of the filament off. You can then heat it more so it's liquid then wipe it with a rag.

Hi there. ColorFabb have a wood fill filament which has a profile in the marketplace for the S5. Not sure if it's in any stores in US but you can buy it direct from them.

You might find it's due to you selected layer height and the curvature of your model. You could adjust the later height as an exercise to see how it affects those top layers.

I think you will find that the initial layer height will be greater the 0.1mm This setting is hidden in your screenshot. You can search this setting or press menu button next to search settings, there is "manage settings visibility" and you can tick the box for it to show in your menu. By default it is set at a fairly high layer height to aid with bed adhesion but it can be lowered to 0.1mm especially for a small print like this.

Hi there. PA6 works very well on the UM3. I use it all the time. You can get great results with 0.25 nozzle. The main thing is keeping the material dry. I store mine in a sealed container with desiccant and sit on the heat bed for a few hours before use. It does depend on how humid you environment is. I have a part that I printed over 2 years ago on my roof of my house and it's holding up very well.

Hi there. It looks like the model is not a solid model and there may be an open face or have errors in it. Some programs like SketchUp allow you to draw faces that don't form a solid model. Which means that if you were to fill it with water it would leak.

Yup 😁

Today I printed a reverse camera holder and plastic welded it into the number plate light cover.

So I have found my post-processing script and found it works in Cura 4.8. Problem is I used someone else script and changed it to suit my needs and their script has a Copyright so I don't really want to share it until I know what that means and what steps I would need to take before I can share it.