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Labern

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Labern last won the day on August 9 2017

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About Labern

  • Birthday 06/23/1981

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  • Field of Work
    Engineering
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    NZ

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  1. You can mount the motor onto the axis shaft. You would need to make brackets, maybe buy couplings and longer shafts but as this can improve print quality. If you're going to move them, Why not make improvements at the same time 😃
  2. It pretty much works for every printer. I use it sometimes on my UM2+, The amount of adjustment required may change per printer though.
  3. To help remove the elephant's foot you can lower the initial layer height to 0.1. I also use initial layer horizontal expansion set to -0.2 for a 0.4mm nozzle. I normally adjust my designs so holes are +0.3 for small holes through to +0.1 for large holes. as the smaller the hole the bigger the pull-in effect effects the size of the hole.
  4. I had to change each of the variants, setting_version from 5 to 6. Everything else worked just fine.
  5. Well with PLA and trying to get perfect details then you want as little heat as possible. The Aluminium build plate wasn't meant for PLA and inclosure is also not wanted for what you want to achieve. Its more meant for engineering materials. Different materials require different methods to gain the best results. To get a good curve on the bottom of a PLA print you don't want any heat on the bed or the rising heat will make the edges curl up too much and give bad results. A 45deg shape will always give a better result than a full curve on the bottom as a curve has a steeper angle the gradually gets less. I normally put a small 45 deg angle at the base where the steep part of the curve would normally be is to avoid this or I use breakaway support material. You can also reduce the layer height to reduce the amount of overhang of filament for each layer.
  6. you can also install tinkerware firmware and should be able to change motor direction. I don't think it would be too much of an issue and also means you can remove the short belts.
  7. If you are hearing a sound coming from the spool then the filament could be catching and this can also cause under extrusion.
  8. All version of cura should have both UM2 and UM2+ firmware. You can manually select the one you want to install by selecting install custom firmware. In the (cura version)/resources/firmware folder you can find UM2 and UM2+ firmware But you should have a look at Tinkerware. Its a great addition to your UM2 and you can even change the direction of the feeder in the menu. you can find it Here
  9. This is an Ultimaker forum so you may not get your answer here. But check your nozzle is clean. Maybe carry out an atomic pull. Check filament passes through the bowden tube and nozzle properly. You can heat the nozzle, open the feeder and push filament through by hand and it should push through without too much force. other then that have a look for a CR10 forum which may offer better advice.
  10. I would turn off retract before outer wall. It probably oozed a bit during travel moves and then underextruded on the pillars. For something like this, you are a lot better off not printing it as one piece. Not only would you have a heap of print time and PVA but you could get a lot better quality pillars. If you designed this yourself then you can make the pillars slot into place and add a dab of glue.
  11. Don't know much about your printer. But you may need to check to see if the filament is grinding or slipping in the feeder. or if you hear knocking sounds coming from your feeder.
  12. Maybe the material diameter is set to 2.85mm. I have seen that some people have had issues with cura defaulting to 2.85mm.
  13. Yeah, I also find nGen quite brittle using the 0.25 nozzle. I would probably increase the temp a bit, Turn off Z-Hop and avoid printed parts when travelling to reduce travel times and keep heat on the part. nGen doesn't really have the best bond to itself which means that the strength between each wall and layer is not hugely strong. Using a 0.25mm nozzle means you have even less strength cos the print lines are so small. Keeping the part as warm as possible without affecting your print quality is the best solution. So maybe up the temp and play with retraction, travels and combing to reduce oozing.
  14. If layer view looks ok then you probably have under extrusion or a problem with your z-axis. If its the same height in every print then it will be Z-Axis. but if you get it randomly then is probably under extrusion. A closer look at the missing layers would help determine your issue and sharing what printer you have and material used, settings like nozzle size, speed, temp and layer height will also help.
  15. Could a Z-hop be added on the first layer to the first extrusion point for both extruders and travels to the material change position? This would eliminate any risk of scratching in the larger movement area.
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