Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
  • Sign Up


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Labern last won the day on August 1

Labern had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

754 Excellent


Personal Information

  • Country
  • Industry

Recent Profile Visitors

7,982 profile views
  1. It's ok, I don't think your trying to be smart. A lot of people have a misunderstanding of how it works and it's good to know as it can help problem-solve if you do. The sensor is on the bottom of the print head. It's on the bottom of the front fan door. If you open the fan door and look inside you can see 2 wires connecting to the base. That's the sensor. You can read about how it works HERE as it is the same one as in the UM3 and this link has a full better description of the whole background of how's it works and why. The only difference is on the S5 it has more measuring points not just 3 which helps it compensate for imperfections in the glass and also you can't turn off the feature.
  2. On the S5 The sensor in the print head is measuring the alloy plate. As the print head gets closer the sensor reading is increasing. When the print head touches the glass the sensor reading stops increasing and stays constant. At this point the printer knows that it is touching the glass and stops.
  3. When the printer is active levelling it has a sensor that is reading the aluminium plate under the glass. Putting an additional 10mm of plastic on top of the glass would probably put it out of the sensors range so it won't work. The only thing I can think of is to put tin foil on top of your 10mm panel. It would have to be without wrinkles and then quickly remove it after levelling (if it works) when the cores are heating to print. The tin foil should be thin enough to not offset your bottom layer any more but may get damaged during levelling.
  4. I normally don't add more infill then 30%, I normally stick to 20% and if i want a part stronger I add more walls and top/bottom surfaces.
  5. The infill will protect the top from collapse. Support goes on the outside to help print things that stick out. There is only the ring on the side of this part that is effected but because of the shape and it doesn't stick out far I think it should be fine without support.
  6. It's more like acetone ABS, smooth and shiny. I don't have a before but you can see it's very smooth. Depends on how long you leave it depends on how much it smooths it. You can also use Chloroform to melt 2 parts together.
  7. Can you post a project file or screen shot of how it looks in cura, layer view?
  8. I don't have an Ender 3 but I know some printers only accept certain types of sd cards. Not SDHC etc.. Also you may have to select the reprap gcode in machine settings.
  9. I would use SD card. Easier to print old files and more reliable then a computer connected while its printing
  10. If you put a SD card in your computer CURA should auto say "save to removable drive" Or you can connect via usb
  11. this can also happen if the nozzle is too close to the bed. If its only in that one spot though I would make sure its properly cleaned. Make sure you printing on the correct side of the glass (side with hot warning sticker) and the appropriate adhesion method is evenly applied.
  12. You could use chloroform vapour to slightly melt the outer layer. I just went to my chemist and they gave me a bottle. Suspend the part in a container, put some chloroform in the bottom and put on the printers heat bed. A mist will form and polish the outer surfaces of you print which should seal it off.
  13. This would be very difficult to do. You would have to be able to hold the part firmly on the bed in the exact location where it should print, completely flat and have the height of the part exactly set at the correct height in cura. Can you not just glue the parts together? Off my memory you can go into curas preferences under general and there is a tick box for keep part on build plate.
  14. It will depend on the top thickness set in cura if you will get pockets or not. But you can check this in layer view by sliding the bar on the right side and looking at the point of where you will delete the gcode lines to make sure that layer is complete. But normally I find a quick edit to a design or swapping out nozzles to a smaller one faster then editing gcode.
  15. So for something like this I would design the thinnest part of the edge a little bit bigger then 2 x the nozzle size. So 0.81 if printing with 0.4 nozzle. Alternatively you could reduce the line width in cura a bit smaller. It will currently be 0.38 or something. You could make this 0.3 but this can effect you print quality. You could just try it and look at the model in layer view just to see how the nozzle size effects how it will print your model.
  • Create New...