paul9
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Posts posted by paul9
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Hi guys.
I have never had these problems.
I think it is as if the extruder is stopped in an instant more or rests on the printed side before moving and let these ugly marks on the print.
attaching photos to better understand my problem.
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Those prints look great - I think you've got the steps/mm at the right value. However those arrows are pointing to areas where it appears to overextrude as you say.
That could be due to temperature fluctuations - that's easy to check - see if the temp is cylcing by 10C or more - for example from 220C to 230C back and forth. It could be that the wider areas are when the printer is hotter. This is a common problem when people increase the wattage of their heater but don't change PID settings.
Or more likely it could be a Z screw issue where your bed is not moving always .2mm (or .15mm etc) exactly and where sometimes it moves a little too far and sometimes not enough. There are many things that can affect Z but the most common and the easiest to fix is dirt on the Z screw. Try removing as much grease as possible along with dirt. But other possible errors include Z ball bearings need cleaning or replacing or the Z nut needs replacing.
I understand, the z axis is spotless, I clean before making the various tests, but I can tell you that before I made the change of the filament, when normally I printed with wires from 2.85mm happening to me this problem of over-extrusion only when I used a height of 0.2mm to 0.1mm but if I printed out a perfect printing!
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I recommend also a smaller print - maybe a 2cm cube. Also ignore the bottom layer as that is very very sensitive to leveling. Only pay attention to the second layer or higher.
Hi gr5 , I have done these three tests.
Before printing layer with height of 0.15 and 0.2 then to finish 0.1 naturally adapting the speed and leaving the flow always equal to 100%.
In all cases I had over-extrusion, and in the case of printing to 0.15 when in fact the upper part there was even a little is under-extrusion.
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Hello guys!
is for more than one week I am trying to solve problems of under-extrusion or over-extrusion.
In this photo I have an example of three identical prints by changing the layer height and adjusting the speed.
I started with 0.2 and then continue with 0:15 and finally 0.1
In these cases, I have always had over-extrusion of the cubes in the walls and only if what I had 0.15 in the even greater under-extrusion.
I would understand if it's just a problem of feeder and what evidence do I need to do to try to solve?
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I recommend also a smaller print - maybe a 2cm cube. Also ignore the bottom layer as that is very very sensitive to leveling. Only pay attention to the second layer or higher.
OK I'll do the tests
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Hello guys!
Can any of you explain to me what solution is best?
What use you and how you are?
Lacquer on hot dish is what I use, but I've seen that too many people who do not use it anymore!
Second Buildtak solution (I do not know how it works)
Third solution (blue plate)
Fourth solution (brown plate)
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Today I tried to do other tests.
Maintaining the same print file but changing only the esteps values.
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Hello guys!
I had the need to change the diameter of the filament in CARE and after a tip that was given to me, I went to machine setting and I modified GCode Flavor I initially put Reprap Volumetric but printing is coming very badly, I had excess material in other cases under-extrusion.
I then saw that the same thing could be done by amending RepRap (Marlin / Spinter) and things become similar to when you leave CARE with the default settings.
Does anyone know tell me why this happens?
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I was suggesting that if you 'also' post there, someone might help you. you are free to post anywhere you want, just don't douple post.
Ok you're right no post double!
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First of all...
Please, stop making a new post for every single part of your problem. You have open 10 post already asking over and over, and you got all the answers but choose not to read carefully. I can understand that you might get lost in translation, but at least you should try all the options that you get from other users, so please TRY.
Second, as I told you long ago, you are MODDING. There's no Manual for that, there's no book of modding. So you have two options, use google (as many of us do when we have a problem) and search for information on your Language (there's plenty of guides that explain how to adjust the ESTEP value of an extruder, and even when that guides ain't for a Ultimaker it doesn't matter, a motor STEP it's the terminology used on 'how much' a motor moves on ANY 3D printer).
Other option, Write on your original language so other users can give you answers that you can fully understand, we have a very nice area of Italian users.
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/languages/italiano
1. You have TinkerGnome Firmware yes? OK, then please BEFORE asking, could you try it? Could you move the cursor around the menus to find where to adjust the things you need to adjust? If something doesn't work we will be more than happy to help you, but FIRST you need to try.
Check all the menus, read all the info you get on the screen and search how to adjust the ESTEP value. It's quite easy and it will help you learn by yourself how to find information.
2. 99% of the information I linked about how to adjust the ESTEPS was useful to solve your problem. But because you didn't saw any Ultimaker you dismissed it. The process of adjusting the ESTEPS it's equal for ANY printer.
3. You really need to understand the basics of how a printer works to do any adjustment. The only way to avoid all this it's by using, for example, a preassembled Feeder for 1.75mm like bondtech, titan, any other that comes pre assembled for 1.75mm
So, read ALL of your own posts, again, step by step, and if then you have a doubt post...
I understand you, and I'm grateful and I thank you for help and your availability.
But is it really a big mess for me to solve this problem and stop the work that I require, so even if exaggerating, but I'm trying to get out as fast as possible.
But they disagree on the limitation of the community!
Because in Italian language there are no experts who can help me and then I do not think it is right to limit itself to a comparison between only members of the same nation otherwise you would have had to do the same with Spanish users.
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And select "MOVE'. It's right there in your photo. And move the filament an exact amount like 10mm or 100mm. Then measure the actual movement.
Before moving the material I have marked with a pen.
Then I told him to move up to 100mm and has moved 100 millimeters then it would seem that the material moves to the correct size.
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Today installed the firmware of tinkergnome on my Ultimaker2
specifically the version 16.08.2 on my CURA version 15.04.6
Can anyone explain me how to fix in the best way the esteps and all related to the feeder parameters to improve print quality as it was before when I used the filaments of 2.85mm
Now I have always under-extrusion and a bad print quality.
I have to solve retention problems and even problems with printouts
particularly demanding as those of the bridges or unevenness at 45 degrees or more.
I include photos to better understand!
It would seem that ventilation is no longer as effective as before!
The levels of the print layers are a little more obvious than before, also it seems to be one that slips over the other.
and no longer as first one in line with the underlying.
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I was precise. find the MOVE menu. It's on the main screen. Play with it. Tell me what happens.
Today I installed the firmware tinker gnome on my Ultimaker 2
specifically the version 16.08.2 on CURA vers. 15.04.6
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In the machine settings change the gcode flavor to reprap (volumetric) the diameter of the filament should appear (altough i think it's there with the UltiGCode flavor also)
Thanks Perfect
I solved
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What's your question?
I have to learn how to fix the setting of esteps and all other parameters in order to make quality prints.
I need to understand how to improve the efficiency of the machine in order to have quality.
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I had to set these values to avoid retraction of no good prints.
From what I understand, however, how high the esteps error feeder, these problems have come out after the filament change, since I converted my UM2 to the filaments from 1,75mm.
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Is the buildplate within paper thickness to the printhead?
I can not understand what you want me to ask.
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Hello guys!
Is there a way to change the value of the filament diameter in CURA 15.04.6?
Because now that I switched to the filaments from 1,75mm not properly calculate me the meters of filament needed to make printing.
I have tried in various settings but can not find the option to change this parameter.
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If you have a UM2 then lets go with the tinkergnome solution then. This is really not hard. I feel like I'm explaining how to shift from first gear to second in a car.
It would help if your profile said what printer you had because if you have a UMO then I just wasted 5 minutes!
First go here and choose the version of firmware that matches your machine. Do not choose "UM2plus" as the feeder will rotate the wrong direction. Unless that's what you have (the geared extruder). Choose the firmware that EXACTLY matches your: printer dimesnsions, board (UMO has ramps board, UMO+ has different circuit board), heated bed, temp sensors.
Connect printer to computer.
In cura 14.X or 15.X go to "Machine" menu "Install Custom firmware...". Tell cura where you donwloaded the tinkermarlin firmware. You can always go back to your standard firmware using cura if something goes wrong.
It takes 1 or 2 minutes to install. If the lights don't blink and a loud "thunk" noise in the first 3 seconds of "install firmware" then something is wrong - try a different USB cable or a different computer.
After you have tinkerMarlin running go to "MOVE" menu. Spin the knob backwards so you can see the filament leaving the machine. You may have to heat the nozzle - that's in the same MOVE menu. At some point maybe make a mark with pen on the bowden where the filament is. Then rotate the knob and move foreward exactly 100mm on the display. Then measure with caliper how far filament moved.
The steps/mm is burried in the "motion control" menu. go to advanced I think, just keep looking around for "motion control" and there is an option for steps/mm. Inside there you can change the steps/mm for any of the steppers. If you don't hit SAVE you will lose the setting the next time you power cycle the ultimaker.
Thanks for the answer.
You have not wasted a single minute.
I have a UM2 and I mounted the extruder from 1,75mm of 3Dsolex.
Ok but can you be more precise in how to set esteps and how to understand what you have to move the filament?
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You can use cura for it .... old cura... the 15.xx versions
Hi ultiarjan,
Can you explain once I upgraded the firmware you're talking about, how can I then go to appropriately modify all the parameters of esteps and other parameters of the feeder so as not to have more problems under-extrusion?
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From left to right on the sharks, you can see the battle I was fighting.
TinkerGnome firmware and adjusting the esteps is doing the trick!
Now just on to dialing in the flow and a dozen other settings. Thanks for the help guys. Finally running 1.75mm on this machine.
Hi, Can you tell me the parameters that you used to recoil when printing the CtrlV M4 tests and also for other prints. And then as you have changed the values of esteps?
If you have mounted a MK8 for the feeder?
I too have problems of under-extrusion since I switched to the filaments from 1,75mm.
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From left to right on the sharks, you can see the battle I was fighting.
TinkerGnome firmware and adjusting the esteps is doing the trick!
Now just on to dialing in the flow and a dozen other settings. Thanks for the help guys. Finally running 1.75mm on this machine.
Hi, Can you tell me the parameters that you used to recoil when printing the CtrlV M4 tests and also for other prints. And then as you have changed the values of esteps?
If you have mounted a MK8 for the feeder?
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The gcode you made write information on the printer. If you change the values it will change the Esteps.
Edit the file, adjust the estep value and use it again.
To find the value that works for you follow any of the million help guides.
You need to orde the printer to move X amount of filament, then you need to check how much in reality it moved, then you calculate using a simple rule of three.
I told you looong ago to use printrun to 'talk' to the printer by usb. Easiest solution to change esteps it's to use tinkergnome firmware. But that, as all this, isn't easy.
You are modding the machine, there's no manual for that. Specially if you never did that.
If I follow this procedure and install the firmware then how can I change the parameters ESTEP and others to solve my problems?
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Like most computer related things there are 10 ways to do something.
ONE way to update esteps is to write a gcode file, put it on SD card and PRINT the file.
Another way is to connect the printer to a computer through USB cable, run pronterface and enter the same gcodes by hand in pronterface. This is much easier as you can adjust the value 10 times in 2 minutes. Also pronterface tells you the current values of steps/mm for all your axes before you change anything.
A third way is to get the tinkerMarlin firmware which is MUCH BETTER than the regular firmware. In tinkerMarlin there is a menu that lets you adjust steps for all your steppers directly. and you can see their current values.
The best way to pick the correct value is *not* to measure any diameters of anything. Just tell retract the filament so it is in the bowden but near the feeder. Extrude 100mm. Measure with calipers. Determine error and adjust steps/mm. for example if it moved 110mm then that is 10% too much and you need to reduces steps/mm by 10%.
Thanks!
but Can you explain better how to do just about the best solution you have proposed to me at the end.
As I say extrusion of 100mm?
And then how to increase the value found the error?
New printing problem.
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Thank you. I then try to increase the speed of retraction of 1 or 2 mm / s