[Filament grinding]

Thanks for input guys. Caliper readings keep coming out at 2.48-2.54 so these spools are actually a bit thinner than the 2.85. I am currently printing a second object after successfully running a 3 hour print. Played with tension on feeder and after a few trials seem to have found the sweet spot for these PLA rolls.

After this current print is done I will be printing out lRobertl's feeder.

 

[Filament grinding]

I am also curious about the tension on the feeder and making adjustments and also about how you guys change material if you don't use the UM menu? Do you just push new filament up the bowden tube?

 

[Filament grinding]

Good day, recent new owner of a UM2 and been having an excellent time learning the machine and printing things out. Have worked my way through my first roll of UM silver PLA. I had a few issues with underextrusion that I was able to remedy after playing with settings and produced some very nice prints.

This is where the issue arises. I am trying to use another filament from Gizmo Dorks and have been having grinding issues with the feeder. I have tried two different rolls of filament and have had the same problem.

I am able to get filament loaded and run a successful print but when I try to run a second print, it fails. I end up having to open the feeder, undo the bowden tube from the extruder, get the filament out, do a few atomic pulls, verify pathway is clear and then close it all up. I have had to do it 4 times this afternoon already.

Rolls of PLA are on a bearing spool located under the table from the printer to minimize stress at that entry. Any advice is greatly appreciated. I know I will be getting other filament to try. I would also love to know how to fine tune the feeder? I plan on printing out iroberts feeder when I am able.

Anyone care to shed some light on all things filament loading related, please feel free.

 

[Do you use any surface on top of UM2 glass?]

I have been printing PLA at 220 with bed heated to 60 directly on the glass and have found that if you let the print cool thoroughly, no tools are needed to remove it. At least so far I haven't had to deal with any seriously "stuck" prints.

Some use a thin coat of glue that has been watered down, or things like Kapton tape or blue painter's tape.There are a few other products out there being released like buildtak.

 

[Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")]

I am also looking forward t the second batch (should have my UM2 later this week!)