neo-ninja
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Posts posted by neo-ninja
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I releveled a few times. No Olsson block. I will take a pic.
I followed the instructions on 3dsolex which as far as i could tell, was to screw the steel all the way down then back up half a turn so its sort of a bit loose. By doing that i then dont have any control over the distance to the shroud do i?
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Hi Guys,
Recently needed some new teflon so ordered the new type of teflon coupler and a I2K chip.
Since using the I2K chip i have had lots of under extrusion issues, not enough for prints to be super weak, but enough that the first layer doesn't go down very well and the inside fill being very weak.
What have I done wrong?
Let me know
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Hi Guys,
I have found a huge variance in the longevity of the Teflon couplers I have owned. I have two machines running 24/7 printing alot of similar prints. The original teflons lasted well into thier 1000 hour mark.
At those points i get extrusion issues and filament change issues so I change the teflon.
I then used the spares that came with the machines, they lasted less but probably closer to 600 hours.
Again same issue, so I decide to swop in new ones from the highly recommended 3dsolex. These really lasted alot less time, I mean ALOT less. realistically close to 200 hours max, before I started getting extrusion issues. No issues with changing filament though. They really feel like a very inferior product. (Plus the huge wait time to get them sent to the UK mixed with messed up orders etc..) Carl always tries to put things right, but a down time of a few days for me is quite a big loss, and so the mistakes coupled (see what i did there) with the very short lifespan is making me look elsewhere.
I have seen lots of people selling new Teflon couplers with "guarantees" that sound pretty odd to me. Has anyone used these? UK based people where are you buying your teflon and how long is it lasting you?
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if you turn the nut towards the left then the nozzle will go up, the teflon gap and gap between the nozzle and fan shroud will also get bigger.
I normally put it together and screw it so the teflon gap is about 1mm (red arrow). then put the fan shroud on and look through the edge and see if there is a gap (purple arrow). if its touching then i wind it up a little bit more till there is a gap.
You sir are awesome! I am going to try now! Thankyou!
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Well look at how many downloads and likes it has. Plus a lot of people here on the forum use it or an adapted version of it. Seeing its so open you don't get plastic build up and its easy to clean. But the fact that you just un-clip it and removed the filament makes it that much better.
It uses all the parts from inside the original feeder so you shouldn't need any extra parts. Maybe one screw to hold the bearing.
Ah ok great! I will give it a blast!
Do you know what screws they are, the heads on mine are getting a bit worn so i might as well buy some new ones.
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I was a bit nervous about printing that as i had heard a few people saying it wasnt as good etc..
Where do i get all the components from etc?
you can contact support and buy one direct from ultimaker
or you can just print THIS which is much better then the original one and faster to change material etc
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Holy guacamole! No one has ever said that before that i have seen.
So in effect once its built i should unscrew the nut to make the gap bigger?
How do i make sure there is a gap between the fan shroud and heater component?
You turn the steel nut, round metal bit with holes in it to adjust how much the nozzle sticks out and the gap of the white teflon bit.
You have to have a gap between the teflon and steel nut but to much isn't a bad thing.
You also need to make sure the hot end doesn't touch the fan shroud.
here is a picture to explain it further. (it has the Olsson block installed but same rules apply)
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Hi Guys,
My machine is close to 2000+ hours, and on my old machine where the plastic feeds into the extruder the extruder has worn away im pretty convinced this is causing me a few issues with friction. So im wondering where i can order a new one from.
My second newer machine has a much better design with a small metal ring around the entrance that stops this happening.
Machine is UM2, and im UK based.
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Thats huge and maybe your problem
gap should look like the one in this photo.
are you using the olsson block as well as teflon coupler?
Oh wow that gap is tiny?! I have pushed my teflon all the way in, and its at least 0.5cm the teflon wont go any further in. Also your head seems to stick out alot further then mine.
This picture is an old one so ignore the lifting prints, but I haven't used the printer since.
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Only 1mm gap?! there is easily 1cm on mine.
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I have only been printing with PLA. Nothing else the first Teflon coupler i had lasted easily 1500 hours, these last two seem to have only lasted maybe 200 hours each, but the middle one i was using alot of retraction.
Wont those parts just melt away?
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Hi Labern,
When you say check the teflon again, what am i actually checking as each time I have changed it, it doesn't really look that damaged maybe a bit blackened around the entry and exit points but as soon as i change it works fine.
The reason i ask, is every time i have had to change it, it has been pretty stuck and i have ended up having to be quite aggressive to get it out.
I will try loosening the pulleys
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Where should I get spares from like belts etc... For my um2 in th UK?
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Hey guys,
Having some extrusion problems and not sure what is causing it. The material flow seems very inconsistent on my um2 causing early failures...in first few layers
I have tried cleaning out the nozzle with atomic pull and everything seems fine.
I changed Teflon could lee not long ago (maybe 200 hours) I am using an Olson replacement (cheaper quality?)
The feeder I cleaned out and seems to be pushing material ok.
The printer has now done around 2k hours could it be something else?
My y axis belt seems a bit loose in the top too but still moves fine (should I replace?)
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yes they are. it looks like shifting layers. i guess you went through all of This?
I have tightend all the screws as shown apart from the ones behind the metal boxes, I am just trying another print with the object more central to see if that makes a difference and will then try doing the pully motor screws
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did you try tightening the short belt pully screws and the pully on the stepper motors?
Yes they all seem very tight (and bloody tricky to get to!)
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Hey guys,
I have the attached issue, i have printed this gcode a few times and had no issues at all. All of a sudden i get this mess and have now had that at least 4 times.
Very strange! I read online to try and tighten all the belt screws, which i have done and same issue. I am just trying to print it more central on the bed to see if that makes a difference.
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I have seen that, but what is strange is i have never had it before and it all started a few weeks ago. I have had the machine apart to change the teflon and to clean out the back of the machine etc.. I dont think it started after that but it might have done.
Other then that i havent changed any settings in Cura or the machine, and have been using the same PLA.
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Right I think sir you might have won!
Do you want the prize? I have a code I can send you just let me know your chosen format.
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Yo Guys,
This has recently started happening, and im not sure why.
Any ideas?
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OK great i will give it a go when it arrives.
thanks guys!
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So actually I just bought a pfte coupler from ORsen but not got it yet. Is that my problem? Sometimes it works a dream other times it doesnt.
If thats the issue thats an easy problem to fix when it turns up
My pfte coupler hasnt lasted too long dissapointingly then, maybe only 800 hours or so, and im only printing PLA. I heard someone else saying they should last at least 1000+
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Hey guys,
I have started getting problems when changing filaments where it will just not reverse the filament but instead grind it down on the spot. I cleaned out the mechanism and it feeds in just fine.
Any ideas? its a UM2
I2K Issues?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Hey guys,
So i wrote to he guy i got it from. The trick is to turn the steel all the way down if you have an original block!
Works like a charm now.