neo-ninja
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Posts posted by neo-ninja
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WHat is that unit in? 0.2mm?
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Ah good point. Maybe glasses screws are the best way to put it together. Do you know what size it would be?
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Not entirely sure I understand exactly what you want but I did this real quick like so you could have a look.
Damn! That sir is pretty much spot on what i was picturing although with more of a screw together mechanism rather then an screw with tiny glasses screws which im guessing you are proposing?
I seriously wasnt expecting a reply that quick, so sort of think we need to give it to the end of the week to see who else has a design for the prize! If thats cool for you
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Hello!
I was recently given a bangle and a special coin that has been turned into a ring as a charm for the bracelet. The problem is the ring moves around the bangle too much and clinks against the metal of the bangle.
What I want to do is design up some sort of ultra minimal casing that can either clip round the ring or screw around it and then slid onto the bangle to minimise movement.
Link - http://imgur.com/a/HnuoW
Ideally I would like to try and keep as much of the outside of the ring visible and the same on the inside (if that is possible)
I have taken some pictures of the ring and bangle and design I was picturing aswell as measurements.
I will print the designs on my Ultimaker 2 and choose the winner.
The Prize is a copy of the new Trials Fusion The Awesome Max DLC on Xbox or PS. (Why? Because it has a freaking unicorn and a gun toting cat!)
Big thanks in advance!
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No takers!!
Make me an offer if you are based in the UK,
Do you stil;l have this for sale?
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I have had these problems a few times, the small piece has sharp edges and is bent a little,
and thus stuck in the tube.
I just bought a 50cm 3mm metal rod (alu, brass, steel or long welding rod at any DIY store), open one end of the bowden tube, and just push the small part out
if it is really stuck, just tap the metal end with a hammer, and it comes out in seconds.
that's why I hate cheap PLA, if you leave it for a few hours, after finishing, it breaks at the feeder, or even worse in several places inside the bowden tube :(
You guys are all awesome! Boiling water worked a trick.
You know what so far touch wood i have tried lots of different PLA from nice stuff on Dream3d to the cheapest i can find on ebay, and i must admit so far i cant really notice a big difference... Its certainly not been worth paying double for the odd issue.
But i could be wrong.
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yeah going to try boiling water first! fingers crossed that sorts it!
I have ordered a new one just incase too as figured 7 euros wasnt bad if it lasts me for 700 hours or so.
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Heat the tube from the outside with a hairdryer /hot air gun.
If you dont have it or haitdryer not hot enough, soak outside of tube in boiling water, when pla is soft inside push it out with new PLA.
When you have run sevral hundred hours, the tube gets lots of little scratches inside and is not really slippery! A new tube is a total difference!!
You can try filament in old tube and new tube manually, and there is no more discussion about it.
Thanks guys for the advice, ordering new tube now. From Orsen. Will try other methods tonight!
Thanks all!
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- Remove the blue clip at the bowden tube holder
- Push the bowden tube holder down
- Gently pull the bowden tube out of the holder
- Repeat the previous steps at the other end of the bowden tube
- Stick some long, non-brittle piece of filament into the bowden tube and push the fragment out
- Gently push the bowden tube back in the holder an make sure it is pushed to the very limit
- Fix the blue clip again
- print
I have tried that and it seems really really stuck! any recommendations on house hold items that would fit down it to push it along! I tried a bamboo kebab skewer and no joy!
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Hi Guys,
Been printing away for around 600 hours now no issues always PLA on my UM2.
But this morning i wanted to change filament to do another order tried reversing the filament and it sort of ground it self down. So i cancelled tried again and gave it a bit of a pull to see if i could ease it along (as that normally works when this has happened before).
However this time the filament snapped! So I now have filament about 3 inches down the tube from the hot end and literally only 2mm sticking out the other end.
I have tried taking off the boden tube to see if i can plyer it out and no joy.
Any ideas or am i screwed and do i need to buy a new one? If so where in the UK is the fastest place to get one as i dont want to have a down time more then a few days as i have a few orders to make.
Huge thank you in advance!
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HI There
Do you still have this for sale?
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Is it still for sale?
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interested let me know if its still for sale.
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Good news! All sorted! Where i had taken the head all apart i had accidentally left one of the fan wires in the way, now i have moved that its working a dream!
Thank you!
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My UM2 has over 1200 print hours with the first Teflon and prints still look ok. People usually get underextrusion issues when the Teflon is done.
oh wow ok so maybe I hold off for a while
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Depending on where it is stuck, if it is on the edge of a PTFE coupler you could use a screwdriver through the front to push it into the right direction.
Have you tried straightening the tube before you put it in?
Did you remove the horse shoe and pushed down on the white clamp before you pulled out the bowden tube?
The bowden tube should be fully detached from the nozzle. So you should not lift be able to move it with the bowden tube.
Sorry i explained that badly, i mean i found the atomic pull hard to actually pull (the tube was off etc..)
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Well, for sure get yourself the Olsson Block (with tools if you don't have them). One or two Teflon isolators if you print a lot of XT or other PET derivatives. Only one Teflon if you take the I2K ring as it prolonges the Teflon lifetime. If you print ABS only you should consider the IPM Coupler. For changing the heater block I would have a temp sensor in spare. A spare Bowden tube is also something nice to have as after a few months of intense printing and exchanging filament there are scratches on the inside which decrease the cross section of the tube and as a consequence increase the resistance of the filament inside the tube.
If you want to print very small detailed parts, get yourself a small nozzle (0.25mm); for large parts which have to printed fast a big nozzle (0.8-1mm). If you often print abrasive filaments such as XT-CF20, or whatever-fil from Colorfabb then get yourself a stainless steel nozzle.
Where are you located? 3dsolex has a few partners for certain countries, e.g. USA/Canada or Sweden. But it's written on their website.
Oh wow thanks for the advice, actually I am mainly printing in PLA as its cheaper and im printing indoors so anything else more chemically or smelly would be bad.
How do i know when the Teflon is done? Like what are some common signs? Also recommendations for someone only printing in PLA? And how many hours do you estimate it has lifetime wise, i think i am almost at 600 hours now.
Seriously helpful advice thank you!
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Sorry I own a UM2.
I found it quite hard to remove, and actually felt like it was lifting the nozzle with it - is that right?
i am not sure where i would fit the screwdriver?
Pics incoming
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Thanks for the advice do you mind sending me some links on 3dsolex that you recommend as there seems to be so many options!
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Hey Guys,
I was wanting some advice on the most recent atomic pull I have done.
I struggled to actually do the pull after i reduced the tempt to 90c. I keep finding it looks like the filament is not a perfect smooth cone (like it should be) but is more of a torn cone (like the plastic has been stretch) any ideas?
Secondly i am struggling to get the boden tube fully back in. It goes in almost all the way but wont go the last .5 of a cm (i can tell from the little grip lines on the tube). Any helpful advice?
Thanks!
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Hey guys,
I have actually started a small business printing models and other prototypes with my UM2. I have done quite a few hours now and am wondering what i should be looking at buying in spares to minimise downtime.
Like what are the most common parts to go (how do i know when they do) and where can i get them from?
Thanks!
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Will have to get a steel ruler to double check but seems strange, as its something only recently.
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mmm I don't think its that as the machine has printed fine, and after the initial getting used to 3d printing phase I haven't had an issue for a good while. The machine has then just sat on a shelf out of reach where it was first setup and hasn't moved.
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HI Guys,
Quick update I have litrally had a job come through I am going to try and complete, should be 5-10 hours printing over the next two days or so. If it goes well it will be the start of more business so I wont be selling.
If it doesn't then I will 100% be selling but it means I will let you all know in around a week. Currently Bonraduk has first dibs if it comes on the market again in a week.
DESIGN COMPETITION - WIN YOURSELF A PRIZE!
in Coffee corner
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Oh wow thanks, What software do you use to manipulate the files?