neo-ninja
-
Posts
184 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by neo-ninja
-
-
Hey Joer, I will take this off your hands but will need it couriered down.
Would you be willing to do that?
-
Thoughts?
-
3 hours ago, fbrc8-erin said:
What resistance do you get at the connection on the heated bed with a multimeter at room temperature?
Gosh i havent done resistance on a Multimeter since school. but i think 832ish
-
Hi All,
My UM2 heated bed has stopped working. It constantly says its 27C if i manually heat it up it wont go any higher.
I have:
resoldered the 4 pins to the heated bed - they all looked ok tbh though
Checked the board connections - no issues there.
I have checked the current running through the board to the heater no issue and also the current at the heated bed end and im getting a readout on all the pins so cant see an issue there.
I havent been rough with the machine at all, could it just be the heated bed has died? The printer has been running close to 10k hours.
-
-
18 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:
Choose a different support fill or percentage then or, try moving the object or rotating it.
I have tried a few different ones and they all do it.
This is teh best way for it to be up. When you say percentage what setting do you mean?
See the pic below, those towers are filling a bridge that is maybe 2mm max. its pointless and a waste of time plus is a pain to tidy up.
-
Just a note to say i found that, but man is that slow and inefficient. I was hoping there is a setting which i can tweak so its less aggressive.
-
What is support blocker?
-
anyone?
-
Also i should add sometimes this support is tiny, like 1mm thick. Its just pointless.
-
Hi Guys,
I have recently started a model that had alot of 90 degree angles, BUT most of them could easily be bridged, for some reason since upgrading my Cura, the grid support is over zealous and adds support even when the bridge is say 2mm. How can i stop this, its driving me nuts. I just want support when there is no bridge or the gap is say 1CM
-
Hey Guys,
Quick update spoke to UM here in the UK. They have recomended making the white sheafing over the print wires is all the way down to make sure the wires are all tight together.
So i will give that a go later.
-
11 hours ago, starbuck said:
Perhaps it's the gold pins that connect the PrintCores to the back of the print head? Use a flashlight to check those out real good.
10 hours ago, kmanstudios said:Would not hurt to pull it out and clean it too just to make sure.
I have tried swapping print head and its always "Print core 2" but actually printcore 2 has been swapped and works fine in slot 1. if that makes sense.
So you think it might be the connections on the print head but in the print core slot?
-
Hi All,
Need some help, I recently got a Almost new Ultimaker 3. (I now own a couple) but i keep getting these errors. I have tried removing the cable as suggesting in other threads and reseating but to no avail.
I have tried swapping printcores and im pretty certain its something to do with the printcore 2 slot in the print head, as that is the one that always gives errors.
It seems to be quite random when it happens, i wiggle the wires around, and it doesnt seem to be a lose connection. But then randomly it will cut out if i try to use both printheads. Also if i run a heating test, it will randomly work fine or the second core wont heat up. Again i have swapped printcores and both see to work fine when in the printcore 1 slot.
Any thoughts?
-
Did you solve this?
-
This is fixed actually. I just bent it back slightly and all works great now. But bed levelling is still screwed
3 hours ago, tomnagel said:your fan bracket not closing properly might also be related to your problems with active leveling (other thread). The measurement pcb is located in this bracket, and when it moves during leveling, this will influence the results.
1 hour ago, kmanstudios said:that is good to know.
-
I will take a pic later, i have tighted all screws until tight and then unwound three turns as everyone describes. Still the same issue...
The print cores are definately mashed into the print head.
-
Hi All,
I am giving up on active levelling.
For the first 1k hours or so of my UM3. It worked great. Never any issues and i was super chuffed with it.
But around 2 months ago I had issues - got feedback from here and finally got it working again.
Today after much stress i have turned it off.
The bed will just not active level. I have tried everything from printing off guide bars, to manual levelling twice in a row. It just constantly trys to mash the heads into the glass and shunts down. It randomly gives me an error22 or when it doesnt do that will tell me the distance between heads is too extreme.
I have tried everything, the official guide is terrible. I have just manually levelled and now am turning it off. Which is a massive shame as it was a great feature to have.
Rant over
-
FIXED! Thanks John! I pushed the fan cage up slightly and it sort of popped in place.
-
Hey Guys,
My Magnetic print hood keeps falling mid print. It’s happened since I had a pretty big fail where I had to clean out the hood area. But it’s really clean now. The magnets do click shut but there is maybe 0.5mm gap round the top sides.
when the head skips around it just drops down causing chaos.
any ideas? I can’t work out why it’s not staying shut.
-
Hey Robert, This looks great. Do you know where the Arrow should go top or bottom?
-
As per your picture. Maybe its the back screw. How do you have that?
-
Hey all,
Just on this. I have had this issue again. i have had the printer for months now, and never had this issue. Then the firmware updates and i have to spend some time fanying around with it all.
Its making me think this latest firmware is a bit dodgy.
-
Great thats really helpful actually.
Thank you!
Ultimaker 2 heated bed error
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Anyone - am i posting in the wrong group. This thread or has this community jumped off a cliff? It used to be bustling!