neo-ninja

I bought a Hardcore printcore from 3dsolex back in mid April As a spare to use when my officalUM3 printcores wear out. Anyway that day finally came so I plonked in the Hardcore and tbh it has been non stop issues.... first impression is I would AVOID buying one of these, i may just be unlucky but so far it has been non stop issues and I really wish i had just not bothered with it. Firstly the size of it is slightly off, so it feels a bit clunky going into the machine. Second the print door nolonger shuts so I have to use a printed hook to hold it shut this is because the hardcore is ever so slightly too big. Thirdly the auto leveling no longer works, as the printcore is too big you have to basically turn it off and manually level. Fourthly it just constantly fails, i have swapped it into some of my other machines and it is 100% the printcore, it must have dodgy PTFE inside it as it just constantly fails. I know there were issues when they were first made but this was ordered in April... I have wasted so much time with it, its not worth the hassle. The worst thing about all this is I actually bought 6 of them, I havent tried the others yet... If anyone has any bright ideas please do let me know.

Two ways to solve this. 1.) shut the door and push it down towards the print bed to bend the door arms slightly (they have bent out of shape) Use a little pressure but not alot. 2.) Print a door hook, there is one on thingiverse. It basically holds the door shut. I have to use this one one of my UM3s as the door keeps popping open.

Gosh is it only me or is this massively bug riddled. Im having loads of random crashes, its super slow at other times.

The cause was the print not sticking I was just a bit unlucky. The link just showed how to remove the cable is there another for the whole print head?

I just replaced the printbed in the end with a cheap one from china, works just as well as a legit one been using it for a few weeks. £10 instead of £100

Hey All, I was after some advice my UM3 printcores are stuck. I had a massive pla disaster. Which covered the printhead in pla. I got it all cleaned off and the machine works fine. BUT i cant get the print cores out.They can move up and down just fine but will not click out no matter how hard i compress and pull. Any thoughts?

Answering your questions in order: 1.) The printer will start its warm up to get ready to print, but will never actually print as the bed isnt warming up. So i manually decided to see if i can change the bed temp. I can set it to higher but it will never get higher then a reading of 25-28 which seems a bit off anyway. 2.)No error 3.)No i think that all looks fine, at the weekend i can remove reseat the cables on the board 4.)yes 5.)Oh a long time, its a real work horse (it has been used for thousands of hours)

ok At A its a bit random it seems to fluctatute between no reading and around 109.4 At B i get nothing which seems strange? at c i get very similar to A

Oh no that wasnt a dig at you, i just remember a year or so ago you would get 5 replies to question like this. So i have a sneaking suspicion im using my multimeter wrong for measuring resistance. I will take a look at a guide.

Anyone - am i posting in the wrong group. This thread or has this community jumped off a cliff? It used to be bustling!

Hey Joer, I will take this off your hands but will need it couriered down. Would you be willing to do that?

Thoughts?

Gosh i havent done resistance on a Multimeter since school. but i think 832ish

Hi All, My UM2 heated bed has stopped working. It constantly says its 27C if i manually heat it up it wont go any higher. I have: resoldered the 4 pins to the heated bed - they all looked ok tbh though Checked the board connections - no issues there. I have checked the current running through the board to the heater no issue and also the current at the heated bed end and im getting a readout on all the pins so cant see an issue there. I havent been rough with the machine at all, could it just be the heated bed has died? The printer has been running close to 10k hours.

You star thanks, i think its x and y distance i need.