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fernando-rocha

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Everything posted by fernando-rocha

  1. @gr5 @danilius I have an avaiable host. We can try and make this happen if you guys want. I would be more than glad to help and provide as much as I can.
  2. Hey man, I'm brazilian too (can't talk in ptguese around here at this section), and didn't quite understand what's going on (your videos are out of focus =/ ) If you could post something in portuguese and make a better quality video and post at the "other languages" section: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/languages/other-languages Fernando
  3. Actually it didnt solve my problem, just improved a bit the overall quality, but there are some failures on skins yet, which I couldn't find out the reason yet... However, the infill is way better after the increase to 26% and slowing infill speed to 40mm/s.
  4. Thanks for that info @gr5 I'll keep that in mind. Also I didnt like messing with material flow anyway
  5. So I was printing again using different settings: BEFORE NOW Print Speed: 40mm/s - SAME Layer Height: 0.1mm - SAME Fill Density 25% - 26% Cooling OFF - SAME Infill Speed 60mm/s - 0 Shell Thickness 0.8mm - SAME Temp: 220ºC ~ 230ºC - SAME Bed temp 60ºC - 55ºC Material flow 110% - 100% Outer Shell 0 Inner Shell 45mm/s So I was having the same issue: So I lowered the temperature to 210ºC and waited for a few lines to be printed, then raised temp to 235ºC. As you can see below, the spaced lines are the ones with lower temp, and then after the temperature raised to 235, the lines were bonded again. So higher temperature has a good effect on this PLA/PHA.
  6. I have printed using default settings just fine using Ultimaker PLA, for five months. So I started to print using Colorfabb and it happened what I said. I was using default infill speed, retraction, etc. so now I changed to see what will happen, and on. It's not like I have just bought it and started to change everything right away. @stu_le_brew I think it might be, the only problem is that I can't get it to result as good as the other I used to work with. But I'll get there.
  7. I don't think we are fine with default settings (for example infill speed changing) That cilinder looks fine cuz it makes just the "shell", but look at it when it makes a skin: The tip has those sharp edges you say. After the atomic method and test, I think I can say that my nozzle isnt blocked or dirty or clogged, am I wrong? btw, I did the atomic method using the way you described, it's the standard I guess. Thanks =)
  8. @danilius -At 210ºC the filament melts easy, no problem with temp reading I guess. -Did the atomic already, look above please =) -My extruder isnt ticking. -The ultimaker silver PLA that comes with it is better than this, i had never had these problems with it. The thing is that I had this problems with both Orange and White PLA/PHA from Colorfabb (maybe Colorfabb isnt a good supplier?) -hahaha I had a laugh with this method danilius, but it should be my last resort! Thanks for the hydrophilic treatment lesson bro =)
  9. Ok guys. Thanks for all those answers. My feeder isnt grinding or ticking, it's just feeding ok as it should I guess. I have just done the cylinder extrusion test that @Didierklein suggested. It ended like this (using 230ºC): And did the Atomic Method that @SandervG suggested and the filament came out like this all four times I did : I'm thinking the problem might be the filament. I'll try to print under @valcrow settings and see how it goes. My retraction settings are posted below, I was having issues when the nozzle was moving over the top skin and making lines as it moved so I changed 'Z hop' value to improve that. Am I wrong?
  10. Guys check this out, amazing stuff "With our robots that can “draw” steel structures in 3D, we will print a bridge over water in the center of Amsterdam. We research and develop groundbreaking, cost-effective robotic technology with which we can 3D print beautiful, functional objects in almost any form. The ultimate test? Printing an intricate, ornate metal bridge for a special location to show what our robots and software, engineers, craftsmen and designers can do." http://mx3d.com/projects/bridge/
  11. I'm having issues with Colorfabb PLA/PHA too. What do you guys think? check the link below please: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16428-printing-issue-under-extrusion
  12. What do you mean when you say "Feeder. Check force, spring"? Do you think it might be to loose? I'll make those verifications neo. Get back to u soon.
  13. Hey John, I don't think it's faulty, but I'll check that with some exterior mean of temperature measurement. 230ºC is the limit I guess, I used this brief article to try that. Please check that extrusion volume graphic. Maybe I'm misreading it. As I could see it's the temperature that gets closer to the nominal rates, so I decided to check that since I thought it was an under-extrusion issue. Thanks
  14. I will increase the infill percentage and I have 6 layers on the top, so the outside is pretty. but the first layers are the ones that are bothering me. look at the first pictures, some lines are incomplete also if u look closer at that infill 'grid', there are dots and empty spaces, its not making complete lines. check this one I'm printing right now. (same configs just other color of PLA/PHA)
  15. Hello, I have been trying to print using Dutch Orange PLA/PHA from Colorfabb and this problem always happen. Some parts are ok, but the bottom and the top skins are bad as you can see. My settings are: Print Speed: 40mm/s Layer Height: 0.1mm Fill Density 25% Cooling OFF (On doesnt seem to make a difference anyway) Infill Speed 60mm/s Shell Thickness 0.8mm Temp: 220ºC ~ 230ºC - lower makes it even worse Bed temp 60ºC Material flow 110% (i figured more material would supress those 'holes') Any advice/suggestion? Sorry if I posted at the wrong Section. thaaanks! Fernando
  16. Nico, you have to level it using 1mm first, then after, using a piece of paper. It's a double stage leveling, at least it seems.
  17. Looks like you have put a great amount of time on this man, I'll check it out for sure! Thanks!!
  18. Thanks Nico, I'll pay more attention to that tumb screw thing. and the printer asks for 1mm, just checked.
  19. Hey Nico, that "thick paper" is a card that has 1mm of thickness, as the printer asks. I'll pay more attention to that "finger pushing" detail, but I don't really apply strengh on the bed, just enough to move the paper. Anyways, thanks man.
  20. Opa! e aí galera, comprei minha UM2 faz um mes e meio e tem realmente sido muito aprendizado. Trouxe ela para o Brasil e foi danificada no transporte pela companhia aerea. Entrei em contato com o suporte tecnico e eles foram extremamente atenciosos e enviaram peças de reposição sem cobrar um centavo! fiz um videozinho, quem quiser assistir tá aí Vou acompanhar esse post aqui =D
  21. Hey Guys, Just made some repair on my UM2 using replacement parts sent by Ultimaker all the way to Brazil. So I'm posting the video that is pretty much self explanatory =) Thank you so much UM Support! --- Ola Pessoal, Acabei de dar manutenção na minha UM2 utilizando partes de reposição enviadas pela equipe de suporte da Ultimaker para mim no Brasil. Então to postando o video que é bem auto explicativo =) Muito obrigado suporte UM!!
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