JohnFox
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Posts posted by JohnFox
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On my UM2, the noisiest part by far is the rear fan. Not tried changing it but I have printed a new, more efficient fan mount but it didn't alter the sound volume. Next noisiest are the other two fans.
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Run your fingers over the rods and see if you can feel anything at all, they should be perfectly smooth. However, I strongly suspect the bearings, not the rods.
The bearings should slide up and down the rods without any hold up at all. Maybe the balls have got out of alignment, moving up and down with a bit of a twist should set them OK again.
Are the rods completely free of oil? I think this is quite important, I had a similar problem and it was caused by oil on the rods. Wipe the rods with some Kleenex and run the bearings up and down until they are free.
Yes, I moved them up and down but if I raised the bearing to the top of the Z-guide rail and released it, it would tend to stick in some places and would not independently slide to the bottom of the shaft. Could this be a problem with the guide rods instead of with the bearings? If not, any ideas??
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If it's brand new then I would send it back right away. On the UM2 the build plate moves with a bit more force then the movie clip implies but it still moves. Something is seriously wrong - rather annoying for a new machine.
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I bought some 0.4mm drill bits to remove any blockages in the nozzle hole.
If you heat up the nozzle to above 100C or so, then push the drill bit into the hole, you can push any junk upwards. An atomic clean then will get the bits out of the way.
The great care not to break the drill bit, they are VERY small.
Since switching to PLA it is now very rare that I get a blockage.
I have also fitted a wiper to the filament, just before it goes into the feeder. A small square of micro fibre cloth removes an amazing amount of bits and fluff from the filament, all of which would get into the nozzle.
I found out that the PTFE part is made of teflon, and it does not like to be in the nozzle. Replacing the nozzle is arduous - around 2 hours of trying to screw parts together that are not forgiving (its not made well for maintenance), but..
I finally replaced the nozzle and my printer is as good as new!
I recommend a new way of monthly nozzle cleaning. Atomic is only for easy to remove fragments.
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Oh, THAT's why it's called 3D printing!
Oops!
My excuse is that it's Christmas Day
Don't forget that scaling up has quite an effect on the time taken to run a print.
2x the size = 4x the time
You would be looking at multi-day prints. Not a trivial exercise.
...or 8x if you think threedimensional...
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Don't forget that scaling up has quite an effect on the time taken to run a print.
2x the size = 4x the time
You would be looking at multi-day prints. Not a trivial exercise.
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Had printing stopped when you took the photograph?
It just looks as though it had only printed a single layer for the top. What were the layer settings and top and bottom thickness?
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Changing the coupler will make a HUGE difference. They do wear, so I would always keep one as a spare, ( nozzle as well).
okay, where i can buy a kit and for how much ?
the ptfe coupler are the original we get when buy the UMO+ but dont have caliper, so i made a measure picture with wath i have
and how about this bad x / y ? i read about bad sd card stuff somewhere they corrupt gcode but dont have bad pin in sd slot of controll panel. i want try to print something via usb but not see any option on cura. i got a aduino 2xxx on windows controll panel and dont know how to do.
( i have a netbook with ubuntu studio if necesary )
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Nothing wrong with the model. The Cura images look fine.
hi, sommes news pics
i presume is was made in sketchup because the auth have made a big plan of wath i want to build inside them
there is wath i want to print : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1063999
thx
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So you are the one who buys up all their stock and I have to wait.
I use the Arctic White all the time in 3mm, it prints really well and for me is the right colour white. I have tried ColorFabb too which is OK but Faberdashery AW does edge it for me.
The other day I printed .300 layer at 50mm/s at 205-210c
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Faberdashery 'Arctic white' is excellent - assuming it is in stock.
It is in stock at the moment by the way.
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Thank you folks - got it!
Copied the file as text, saved as a .txt file, renamed to .step, opened in FreeCad, exported as .stl. Opened in Cura exported as .gcode. Easy - not! ;-)
For some reason I couldn't download as a zip or do a 'save target as'. Anyway I got there in the end.
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Found the files and downloaded FreeCAD, thanks.
How do I download the STEP file, when I try to download it, it appears as an .html file. I can view it as a RAW file which looks like text. Not sure what to try.
thanks
No STL, but the STEP files are published here.
You should be able to convert it to STL, if in doubt you can use FreeCAD for this job.
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If it is the thread at fault, moving it up and down should gradually smooth out the imperfection. Is there anything visible at all?
Repeated cleaning the pillars will remove any excess grease and help the ball bearings roll as they should.
doing some test prints now. They look already better
The gritty feeling/noise is still there, so it feels like a time bomb, hopefully it will not go off...
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Sounds like quite a common problem. Wipe the two Z pillars to remove any grease or oil. Try powering the build plate up and down a few times and listen for any hold up. Wipe the pillars again, it's best to have them completely oil free.
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Hello,
Has anyone got STL files for the plastic bearing holders on the UM2?
On my machine, the top one has cracked and I am not sure I can repair it.
thanks
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I think you need to be quite a lot thicker to be fully waterproof. Double thickness is marginal.
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Probably not the filament at fault then.
Just wondering if you have a problem with the sensor, hence the question about when you changed the coupler, ( and disturbed the sensor cable ). If the sensor is giving false readings, then the controller will try and adjust the temperature to what it thinks is 210C, making it over and under extrude. Going to be hard to prove because the sensor reading will probably show 210C even though its not.
We currently use 2.85 mm standard ultimaker brand filament.
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I think you must use the Robert feeder. I tried the Flexible filament and the standard feeder simply quashed it flat. You can adjust the tension on the Robert feeder and on my UM2 it now feeds perfectly.
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That's probably due to friction on the feeder/bowden tube somewhere.
Looks like highly variable extrusion, sometimes under then over.
Regarding spools of filament, normally the ends of spools are worse because the diameter of the spiral is much smaller and it is harder to push the tightly curved filament down the tube. I have switched to coils because of that.
Could it be temperature variations in the nozzle - anyone?
Did this problem occur before or after you replaced the coupler?
Yes, there are some "tocking" sounds but only on the first few layers.
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It's a bit of a sod to get at the bolts holding the bearings, one needs fingers the size of a mouse. Not convinced it is due to the bearings though, that fault seems to be under-extrusion on the odd few layers, not over the whole model. However, I would wipe the Z axis pillars to remove any oil just in case. Have you any strands of old filament along the length of the Bowden tube? Just wondering if it is friction along the tube. Do you get any 'tocking' sounds from the feeder drive?
I just replaced the PTFE coupler two weeks ago, but I will check the bearings. How would I access the bearings?
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Try changing from the metallic filament to something fully opaque. That looks like the stock filament supplied with the UM, works perfectly but I think it shows more print lines than say an opaque white.
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jonnyb
Thank you very much for the reply, interesting and explains a lot.
( I'm a biochemist by background not an engineer ).
Some more details:
Misumi PSFJ8 (link don't work because it contains [brackets] ) is an induction hardened, hard chrome plated precision shaft with g6 tolerance. Unless most competitors, they specify EVERYTHING, including the maximum "straightness" deviation of their shafts. (These babies are perfectly straight...)
Technical information about Misumi shafts
Misumi LMUW8 is the matching (double length) linear bearing.
This document tells you how to select the correct shafts for your linear bearings, and also the lubrication thing I mentioned before.
As you can see in that document, the tolerances for both the shafts and bearings are in the single micrometer range - this is quite far from what I've had on my UMO.
Here's an example for a bronze bushing. As you can see, there are different tolerance options available, and each has to be matched with a suitable precision shaft. You shouldn't just go to ebay and buy "something" - you won't know if these parts match at all...
More technical info on these bushings
By the way, I just noticed that in english (I usually work with the german Misumi page) they call the linear ball bearings "linear bushings" -.-
This is kinda difficult to translate from german, because there we use two different words... "Buchse" for the bronze bushings, and "Lager" for the linear ball bearings / bushings...
/edit:
Found something interesting here...
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Do you know what prompted Ultimaker to pick the types they use?
I'm guessing that the rollers are better able to cope with the stress of the cantilever build plate but not sure.
Again - just curious.
I know @Foehnsturm and @jonnybischof are building their own 3D printer so they must have done some research..
quick removal of prints from the build plate.
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
What you REALLY need is a Peltier heating/cooling system!!!
Heating and cooling in one package.
The parts will positively fly off the plate.