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Posts posted by Lofrank
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There are two nozzles put together with the Olsson block, which has only one dot totally, looks like this:
http://www.ideato3d.be/boutique/3dsolex-products/3dsolex-nozzles/ultimaker-2-nozzle-rsb-0-40mm/
So I asume it's 0.4mm.
I'm trying to contact carl for detals about the size, thanks all!
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@lofrank what temperature, speed, and layer height are you printing at?
Hi gr5
I'm using default PLA profile (210℃),
Normal profile of Cura 15.04.2 (0.1mm height)
I will paste more details when I back to home.
I'm using Ultimaker's grey PLA.
Thanks.
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What nozzle are you using? Olsson + Jet brass will have less friction than um2 nozzle. I think the stainless steel nozzle can give more friction with pla...
I use one of the brass nozzles, which has a small hole on the side.
I assume this is the 0.4 mm one?
What's more, when do Atomic Method,
the filament is very thin and long after pull out at 85℃ temperature.
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Hi @swordriff & Every
I found that I always get under extrusion after using Olsson block.
1. It's very obvious under extrusion after a retraction.
2. Sometimes the feeder jumps, then under extrusion.
I have done Atomic Method to clean the nozzle, the nozzle is clean. I also feel that I need push more pressure when do Atomic Method than before.
I'm using IRovertI's feeder, it works good before, and haven't adjust it.
Could you give some comments?
Thanks.
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>>>>If you do not heat the nozzle, you risk crashing the steel coupler with the little holes
Why heat the nozzle will make this (turn the steelcoupler) easier?
>>>>so that the block comes up as high as possible.
Is there any disadvantage to do this? I was told that it's not good to put too much pressure on the spring...
Thanks.
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I will add a warning to avoid it happening to others, i never thought that this could happen...
I don't think I'm the stupidest, so the warning should be useful:)
Thanks.
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This is to test the temp sensor, not the heater, i don't think i mention anywhere in my tutorial about changing the heat cartridge.
You are right! It's my bad!
But it's nothing to do with changing heater.
I just want to verify that the sensor is working.
So I turned on "heat up nozzle" as you said "select Heatup Nozzle"
I misunderstood the *select*...
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Make sure you have the latest UM2 firmware. There is a safety shut-off built into Ultimaker2Marlin since last December iirc which switches the heater cartridge off if the temp sensor doesn't react in a proper way. However, the values there correspond to the standard 25W heater, maybe they have to be adjusted for a 35W heater.
Thanks, if it need to be adjusted for a 35W heater, I won't use a 35W heater..
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You shouldn't do that. When the heater isn't in the block with the sensor, there's no way to monitor the temperature of the heater, so it will keep heating up until it burns.
Another question:
Does it means that if the sensor is broken, the printer will burn even if the heater is in the block?
I' really worry about this...
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There should be a warning there, like "Scroll down to HEATUP NOZZLE but do NOT select it".
Just having the selector on the "Heatup Nozzle" option without selecting it means you can read the temperature sensor signal without starting the heater.
You can then test the sensor by heating it with your fingers.
Got it.
So I have misunderstood the meaning, due to my poor English.
Thanks!
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You shouldn't do that. When the heater isn't in the block with the sensor, there's no way to monitor the temperature of the heater, so it will keep heating up until it burns.
Thanks.
I do that because this tutorial tells to do that...
http://www.ideato3d.be/actualites/install-the-olsson-block-on-your-ultimaker-2/
>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<
To check that the temp sensor is still working, turn the printer on, go to the Maintenance Menu and select Heatup Nozzle.
You will see something like this:
Take the sensor between two fingers and the temperature should raise
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Push hard inward on the orange part - that slot fits a screwdriver nicely and then push on the screwdriver while inserting or removing wires.
Thanks gr5!
I want to test the heater and the temperature sensor, so "heat up the nozzle" when the heater is not in the block.
Then the heater burned...
Is this because the bad quality of the heater, or I shouldn't do this?
Thanks.
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Thanks @ultiarjan
Just placed an order on 3dsolex.com, hope will receive it soon:)
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I just put a slight bend in mine in the area where it touches so it would fit. now it works good.
Sounds to be a good workaround, thanks!
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Some people change it because the metal one of the UM2 just does not work fine with the Olsson block. I don't know if there are slight variations in the metal fan shrouds coming mounted on UM2s, but at least with mine the block just wouldn't fit without touching the metal.
Thanks jens, so I have to prepare for the worst.
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Thanks @Nicolinux
That model is useful.
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Thanks @ultiarjan
So this will not be the block issue for me to buy the Olsson block.
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Thanks for your nice tutorial @DidierKlein
I'm still considering whether to buy the block.
I'm from China, no re-seller is close to me...
One question, how much time it will take you to ship the items after I paid?
Thanks.
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Sorry but I have a question here.
From this tutorial, the author changes the fan shroud to have a better air flow.
http://www.ideato3d.be/actualites/install-the-olsson-block-on-your-ultimaker-2/
Is it (change the fan shroud) must if I want to use Olsson block kit and I2K insulator?
Thanks.
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That's great, @cloakfiend
Looking forward to your turorials!
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Thanks @cloakfiend
I agree with you basically.
But I think better leveling will be helpful for a better result, especially for persons who has poor experience to adjust the bed on the fly (like me).
Of cause, I'm learning.
Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Thanks @gr5
>>>> I'm concerned that you may be simply printing too fast or too cold and I'm concerned that you don't know layer height off the top of your head
I used to print with the exactly same configuration (when using the original nozzle block), which leads a good result.
Anyhow I will try to print slower.
Thanks.