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sambo

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  • Country
    GB
  • Industry
    (Product) design
  1. Awesome work Cloakfiend. I really like your surface finishing and the patina's you've been applying to the prints. Out interest are you using Modern Masters paints for these treatments? I tried them for one project and thought they looked okay.
  2. I've just had a go with my brand new (two week old) UM2. It can make 4mm /sec but anything over and it's clearly under extruding. I had hoped by June 2015 Ultimaker would have fixed these problems with the printer. I'm using Innofil PLA which I've heard is the same PLA as Ultimaker sell. I'll try again with some Ultimaker PLA. Print temp was 230C - and I did a cold pull before the start. Oh well, I'll have to wade through 59 pages of comments to see what needs to be done to get this new printer working to spec. TBH I'm very disappointed..
  3. Thanks cloak fiend for posting all your research into this - it's really interesting to see what you are doing with the Acetone - I tried it ages ago and thought that it didn't do anything apart from bleaching the PLA - you have been very observant - I'm going to have another go with some old prints in different PLA colours.
  4. Can anyone confirm if I can safely screw one of the brass Jet RSB nozzles into the aluminium block of my old UMO? I'm not clear if the thread metrics are the same. I'm interested to see how the 0.6mm nozzle with the improved flow of the Jet design will impact on a UMO.
  5. Hmmm. Things not improving - now I've got an ERR MAXTEMP mid print ( I realise this is to do with the temp reading thermistor and could easily be a lose connector on the hot end) but the whole machine is electronically locked up - so I had to power down - my memory of previous maxtemps was that it was possible to still use the Ulticontroller. Now I'm wondering as I'm having MAXTEMP and ENDSTOP X and ENDSTOP Z problems in successive prints if there's a problem with the Arduino and or the shield. Is there a way I can test?
  6. Dammmit - you may be right after all - I've gone from a endstop hit X to an endstop hit Z even when the prints just idling - what do you think I should do?
  7. peggyb - I'm trying my best A general update - the addition of a new cooling fan for the main circuit board seems to have sorted the endstops hit: X problems so far. - I just did a 14 hour print with no problems. Many thanks for the suggestions - it would never have occurred to me that it was an electronics problem...
  8. - Perhaps I should have added a parental advisory...
  9. If anyone's interested - this is a pic of the old girls undercarriage...
  10. That's an interesting call - I had a look at the fan and I saw it was moving very slowly - no cooling going on there...luckily I had a spare fan in my box - so I stuck it in and voila - the electronics board is now getting cooled. I will do some testing and report back later. Gr5 - thanks for the suggestion - I'll see how the new fan impacts on the problem - hopefully I won't have to do anything else - I've tightened everything up and keeping my fingers crossed that I can get back on track.
  11. Great gr5 - I will do this. I've already tightened the easily accessible pulley screws on the rails - but I didn't get to the motors as it looked hard to get to the black screws - I'll have a look tomorrow. I should have mentioned that the LCD comes up with: endstops hit: X
  12. Hi, I have a venerable UM1 from 2012 - one of the first 25 built in-house by Eric and the team and it’s pretty much a stock machine. But I’m now getting problems with the printhead randomly jumping sideways 2 or 3mm on every print I try. The image below shows what happens as the printhead jerks suddenly to the right. You can see how the infill doesn’t align with the perimeter. The problem used to happen occasionally but now it’s every print. I’ve cleaned the rails, tightened all the bolts and added machine oil to the metal rails - (no there’s none on the belts). The belts seem fine - but I
  13. Version 1.0

    2,085 downloads

    UM1 problem print
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