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Everything posted by MarkHoe

  1. I'm printing PLA straight on the glass. About 60C and just a clean glass. I've heard that some have problems with adhesion if the glass is too clean. (mabye its the cleaning agent that is the sinner) but i clean the glass with a bit of normal glasscleaner once in a while when i feel the need.
  2. Hi, I was undergoing kind og the same problem with my UMO+. I ajusted the bed as good as i could with the paper method. After i did a few bedlevelling tests while ajusting on the fly. Bed levelling test i used : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:174884 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1306709 With test like these i got it just right. As a note, i found out that if you move the bed or the hotend around too much by hand, the levelling may be corroupted. so stay to the mechanical way of moving around the hardware. Altso, in my experience, i print PLA with 58C-60C bed temperture and brim. It Works great. - you may not need the gluestick for adhesion.
  3. Do you have a specific item you want to print? if you have, upload a Photo, and there is a lot of Guys inhere that could tell you a thing or two.. I browse in "tips&Tricks" from time to time, just to read about printing and printer behaviour, and for me, some of the Things are very usefull and others dont Work on my machine. I have been printing almost non stop for over a week now, and im beginning to see a slight pattern in the settings, but its not the same as some others in here. So go ahead and print a object, finetune to that specific object, and do it all over Again for the Next one. I know its not a direct answer to your topic, but i dont see a strict pattern in the settings yet.
  4. Well, that makes good sense not to use both, because thats just Waste of filament. I had same question, until i realized that there was no logic to use both.
  5. Im (still) pretty new to the 3dprinting World, but in my experience, i see a lot of finetuning of the settings even when printing in the same filament. (colour, vendor, ect.). I see a lot of changes in how the printquality is just because the objects printet has different complexity. So in my opinion i feel that every printer with every filament has to be tuned to the specific print-object to get the desired output. Its not only the temperature, speed or flow rate. Its altso about how you cooling Works or small settings in your slicer-programme. - So from my experience, its only you who knows excatly how your printer Works. Start with the recommended temperature and finetune from there.
  6. Sorry, ive been out for a while. Yes, i have an UMO+. I have not tried it, but im going to when i have some more time on my hands. but as i read, i should write "G28 Z" instead of "G162 Z" right?
  7. Hi Max, Im pretty new in the world of 3D printing too, but as Sander replied, i would like to see the same model printed with printspeed at 30-50mm/sec. I believe thats is a good speed that allows the finish to still be nice. Then set your travel speed to 100 or 150mm/sec. - The increase in travelspeed should not affect your printquality unless your printer is not on a good stabile underlayer. The reason i like to see your print with this setting is, that i believe your stringing is because of the low travelspeed, which altso makes your printingtime much longer. The increase in printspeed i believe to make no difference for the quality. Can you mabye try it out and upload some Pictures of it for a comparaison?
  8. Okay, thanks. But what do i write and where, to send the z-axis to the bottom? I know that the bottom max is about 200, but how do i put it into the endcode so it Works?
  9. Hey Forum, I have asked this question before, and backthen got an answer that i found not to be working. I might have done it wrong, (im almost sure, because i dont yet fully understand the gcodes) so therefore i seek additionel advice. Last time i asked for an endcode that moved the Z-axis to the bottom max position, i got that i should write "G162 Z" in my endcode. My endcode looks lige this : ; Default end code G28 X Y ; Home x and y axis G162 Z ; Send printbed to bottom max M107 ; Turn off fan ; Disable all extruder G91 ; Relative positioning {IF_EXT0}T0 {IF_EXT0}G1 E-1 ; Reduce filament pressure M104 T0 S0 G90 ; Absolute positioning G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position M140 S0 ; Disable heated bed M84 ; Turn steppers off I cant figure out if some of the following codes mabye disable the command. Can anyone help me with writing an endcode that sends the printbed to bottom max when done printing. Thanks guys.
  10. Hey everybody, I cant seem fo find the specific couplers for my UMO+. I need to find me some spare for emergency repairs. The couplers i need to know the specifications for is as following: Steppermotors couplers Fan coupler endstop coupler. And just to be clear, its the couplers for the mainboard. Have a nice day outthere and keep up the good printing spirit!
  11. Hey everybody, I have been upgrading my UMO+ with dual cooling. (almost like the UMO2). Now i can see that by tuning the cooling om my printer while printing helps the printquality. Therefore i would like a little bit of help with my settings so i can by default increase the cooling by about 30-40units. I would like to make it a default setting so that i dont have to make a lot of changes to the gcode everytime i slice. I use Repetier Host and slice with Cura engine. (if that helps)
  12. Hey. well, that quite a lot of power for a 40mm fan. But i bought this one : http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-GDT-mini-Cooler-12V-2pin-2510-25x25x10mm-DC-Cooling-Fan-micro-brushless-c7-/261431041864?hash=item3cde811f48:g:wU0AAOxyhXRTLbb5 And it says as i can read 0.8A.. But i think that it is a wrong mark, because as i would know with my limited knowledge of powerconducting, that it must be 0.08A.
  13. HAHA. Yearh i wish it was open knoledge. i could seriously use some more reading material about it. But, well, i might just do what seems to be the right way, and see what happens. Thanks a lot, you have been a big help.
  14. Hej DK gruppe. Glad UMO+ ejer. Jeg kan se at der ikke er megen aktivitet på den her danske tråd. Er der muligvis temning for at vi får en Dansk fane her på forummet?
  15. Well, i will go serial, and if it happens that the transistor dies, i just have to replace it. UM must have a good reason to make it in serial, otherwise they would have gone with the parallel connection. And with theese fans, with 0,8A, am i correct that 0,8A is the same as 80mA? so the total of theese two fans is 160mA=1,6A?
  16. But you did not recommend that it was in serial? Mabye i need to try a serial instead of parallel..
  17. HI. Im not sure anybody still reading this, but now i will try anyway. I have now bought and mounted the two small fans. I dont know why but i cant add an image. Its the same fans as UMO2 (DC:12V 0,8A) I have just cut the wire of the original fan at the printhead and connected the two + and two - from the new fans to the + and - on the original fan wire. The question is now, why the fans dont spin?
  18. I consider makerbot to be the apple, far to expensive, closed off and limited in capability on purpose HAHA! i like the comparison, and i can only agree about the Apple part ( i know nothing about the Makerbot's) BUT.. i do love the Iphone bbut will never switch to Macbook..
  19. I no longer have the problem. because i use Repetier. The problem is only when i use Cura. The problem is that the feedermotor just keeps making "clicks" - like i want to run, but is stalled. With the exact same settings, filament and everything, repetier makes great prints, so i know that it is a problem that is generated when Cura slices the model. I will try on my new computer this afternoon, and then post is same problem is present.
  20. Im currently just using standart firmware for the printer. I want to get the Marlin firmware, but i have to read up on it before making some changes that i cannot understand.
  21. Thx, that really helped.. Ha...well I found that to be interesting as I have had some trouble with pillowing and underextrusion on my prints recently. I've been faulting the material as of late and not having the right settings. But it couldn't hurt to either try a previous release or even the Beta. In my case the ekstruder just dont turn, like its stuck. But it works with Repetier, try it out. Just got my new computer, so by tomorrow i can give som feedback about it bieng my computer making the flaws. I really hope that you get your print-setting right, because i really know how its like to have a printer malfunctioning.
  22. The Guys in the shop tested all the hardware and firmware, and found that everything was in order. and with the problem only bieng generated when i sliced with Cura, they found that to be the most likely problem. Repeter has a few different slicers already loaded into the programme, and here i use Cura as slicer. that is the most precise. atleast so ive heard. No problem with using Cura as slicer in Repeter. But there is a chance that it might be my computer that fuckes Things up. I just happened to fry my computers processor last night, so i bought a new and i will try Cura Again on this one just to make sure that it Works.
  23. Of course. haha! beginners mistake. so when done, evrything is shut Down, just leaving the Ulticontroller on?
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