MrTechAgent
-
Posts
50 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by MrTechAgent
-
-
Old one or Simplify3D all day, Cura 2.1.2 is hopeless.
-
2.1.2 is absolute garbage.
No G.Code viewing, no gram calculator + oodles of bugs. Ultimaker should be embarrassed at their shabby job.
-
Thanks guys, you were indeed correct.
@IRobertI the initial layer issue I was having was related to something else, I spoke too soon.
-
Hey guys,
I'm having trouble with Cura and turning off Brim, even if I close the drop-down menu it still draws the Brim in the print. I also tried changing the diameter to 0mm but then it has this bizarre retraction filled first layer, very strange.
The new update sure looks pretty but the old one was more efficient, no doubt.
-
I was able to fix my "Infill Not Touching" issue by just replacing the PTFE Coupler, it was so odd because I was certain the Short Belts were causing it, I spent many days monitoring the Belt and I swear I found them to be not as well tensioned as I expected them to be, when I moved the axis by my hands, I noticed the Short Belts wobble, very minuscule but noticeable. I tried to tension them tons and tons of times but no avail.
Finally, I was fed up and replaced the Coupler as my last option and boy did it do the trick!
I'm surprised no one has ever mentioned this issue, for the longest I was certain that it was a belt issue but to my surprise it surely was an extrusion issue. Absolutely bizarre and unexpected.
Time to stock up that little shit.
-
Facing the same issue, tried to find the right tension for the short belts many times but no luck.
Sometimes I wonder if the Ultimaker people are competent enough to fix the issue or not, it's been over 2 years since this thread was started and still there is no simple answer. Pathetic.
-
I found keeping the little black stretch wire that it comes with on works well. if you just like fold part of it back so it doesnt have a chance of getting stuck during your print that should help
Yup, I actually discarded it thinking it was part of the packing, LOL!
I use a Headband now and it works just as good!
-
Make sure "print all at once" is chosen and not "one at a time". Print it.
So you were right gr5, the problem was fixed when I tried 'one at a time" but I was right about slicing, Cura is messing up something.
The initial layers and Z-Axis position with "one at a time" is perfect and is how it should be but the peculiar thing is when I do it solo, the Z-Axis doesn't go down enough and also the speed I think reverts back to the initial layer speed, almost as if it's considering initial layers of the stick as bottom layers.
The solution was simple but at the same time this error in slicing does exist and should be addressed, I think.
-
This "blobbing" issue you speak of is EXTREMELY COMMON on layers this tiny. I've seen this many times. I read EVERY post on this forum for the last 3 years. Please - I'm probably right about this. I could link you to 50 message 3 page topics about this but it's very simple.
In CAD create a cube of any dimensions. Drop it into cura next to your part. Click on it and scale it - unlock the dimensions. Set X and Y to 10mm. Set Z to a height that lines up roughly with the bottom of the spherical section. Print this next to your part so that while it is printing this cuboid the fans are blowing on the part you care about. Make sure "print all at once" is chosen and not "one at a time". Print it.
The reason it worked before - the red photo - is probably because it is just barely on the edge of working - 1C warmer air temperature 1% slower fan speed 1C hotter bed or 10C hotter nozzle temps is all it takes to push this over from working great to "the blob". Basically you were lucky before.
Thanks, appreciate the help.
-
For the sake of testing, have you tried printing it with like.. 60% infill or less?
Does it even print infill or are the shells thick enough to touch / create the entire stick?
I did but it didn't make a difference as the size was too small for it to have less than full infill but I didn't try that with a 0.25mm Nozzle.
-
The reason it recovers higher up is because it is farther from the heated bed. But the solution isn't to turn off the heated bed - it's to print a 1cm X 1cm tower next to your part. Or print 2 side by side.
Didn't quite understand?
Are you talking about the Z-Axis blobbing in the initial layers of the stick part?
-
I see no error with Cura but your model is really tiny. There is not enough time between the layers to cool down. For this model I would print a larger pillar next to it. With a 0.25mm nozzle you can expect much better results too.
Way ahead of you, I tried 0.25mm but issue stayed because of the Z-Axis not going down enough and according to my leveling for the initial stick layers, it's a Cura issue cause I have printed the exact model before (Ball of the Socket but same thing) and it printed fine, I have attached that picture above when I replied to tommyph1208.
-
Model isnt THAT simple, the "cup" part initially has quite an overhang to print, and the stick as you call it is quite thin...
If I had to bet I would say that Cura is slicing fine, but you have some setting problems that in combination with how these machines work, create your problems.
First off, you didn't post any temperature settings, but in general, the smaller the print (or part of a print), the lower the temperature you need... Printing that "stick" at a normal PLA temperature (~210 degrees) will melt and deform it as shown in your picture..
There are a few things you can do here:
1. Lower the temperature: When printing slow enough, you can print PLA at around 190 degrees, this will help the plastic solidify faster and reduce the constant heat radiation from the hotend while it is over the part.
2. Good cooling: make sure you have fans running at max, that they are working, directed properly etc. it really does wonders for printing small details and overhangs.
3. Print multiples at once: this is a common approach when printing small objects to help layers cool sufficiently before the next one is layed on top. Simply multiply the object in cura (say, 3 times) and enable the "print all at once" option under "Tools".
The minimum layer time setting you find in cura is there for the same purpose, but works poorly with small objects (like the stick part of your model), since it just slows down the print speed to match the layer time but the nozzle is still right over the entire (or most of the) model for the duration of the layer.
When printing multiples at once the printer will do travel moves between each model and allow the layers of each one to cool more before the next one is laid on top... As an added bonus you can pick the model that came out the best when done
3.B. Hone your retraction: Since printing multiples at once will cause travel moves, you need to have retraction enabled and somewhat honed in, in order to avoid ugly stringing on the outside of your part... The reduced print temperature greatly helps with this issue, and so will fast travel speeds, and some tests to get a good setting for retraction distance and speed (4mm. @ 40 mm./s is a good starting value... )
Hey,
The model is actually very simple and the printer has successfully printed it before, the successful print was on a different housing but the design stays the same, you can see it for yourself, printer had no issues with the overhang which was minuscule as the sphere was created linearly.
You can clearly see how "perfect" the stick is.
Answer to your questions -
1) I forgot, sorry...but yeah I printed at 210C.
2) Cooling did help but did not eliminate the issue irrespective of printing temperatures.
3) Good tip but it's still the nozzle touching and blobbing issue so even if I give it time the blob is persistent.
4) True but not really related to the problem.
Thanks for the tips anyway!
-
So, as a beginner I had nothing but respect for Cura but over time I realised that it's pretty stupid.
I need some help from you guys who can tell me why is my print failing, I know why but don't know what's causing it, I'm pretty sure it's the slicing but I can't figure out what.
Here's the model -
As you can see I need to print in that orientation cause I don't want supports in a Ball and Socket joint also there's nothing wrong with the orientation anyway.
But....here's when things get interesting, when the stick begins to start it's first layer, the Z-Axis is almost too close to it for multiple layers until it goes up a few layers before the socket starts to print, the second half prints beautifully as the Z-Axis and Nozzle position is exactly as my levelling. I don't understand why Cura is being so difficult, this is such a simple model, my print settings were all perfect as far as I could tell -
Layer Height - 0.06mm
Speed - 40mm/s
Infill - 100%
Nozzle - 0.4mm
Shell Thickness - 0.4mm and 0.8mm (Tried Both)
Initial Layer thickness - 0.3mm
Here are pictures, these should clarify the slicing mess -
Sometimes Cura is the greatest free thing ever but other times it's just downright stupid as shit.
Any help solving this will be appreciated, I will also download the free sample of Simplify3D today and do the same print to know if it's a slicing issue or not.
-
Hey guys!
Sorry for the late update, I got very busy with work. Anyway, I finally managed to get Robert's feeder installed and it works beautifully, I'm a bit pissed at myself to not have upgraded to this feeder from day 1, even Izzy suggested I do but just never did!
Robert is a 3D Printing God, this feeder is awesome with NinjaFlex and SemiFlex, I spent hours and hours trying to get NinjaFlex working reliably on the stock feeder and it was just not possible to get it working reliably, the Printer needed my full attention but with Robert's feeder, WOW!
I do think SemiFlex prints beautifully without the "Snap-On Guide" as it doesn't buckle in that length but NinjaFlex requires the Guide for sure.
I need to talk about Spring, I bough these from DHGate (http://www.dhgate.com/product/10pcs-3d-printer-feeder-spring-for-ultimaker/246309407.html#myaccount_orderdetail-1-null) thinking they would be exactly as the Alcomex (Impossible to buy one that would ship to my Country) one and the seller specifically said "Feeder Spring" but obviously it was different, not too bad....just a bit longer and it did work with Robert's feeder you just need to cut your M3 to 35-38mm depending on the type of tension you want. I used 35mm.
Here are a few pics with the aftermarket springs being used, I later removed it cause I thought there was an issue but it was nothing, it does work just fine.
Overall, this and the Olsson Block have really made my experience great, thank you - IRobertI, ultiarjan, neotko and peggyb for helping me out, I still need to put some hours into the Feeder to understand it properly but so far so good!
-
1
-
-
Unless you guys have super crazy strength I think it's absolutely impossible to get the screw in.
In fact I called my friend to compress the springs while I tried to screw it in but the screw tension was so high that pliers lost grip after a point and I was afraid of damaging the spring in so I abandoned the assembly and re-assembled the old feeder.
Well I'm certainly not crazy strong. I've never used pliers to compress the spring, I can't quite see how you would even use pliers for it
Yes, the nut might be loose or tight depending on your print. If tight, do what neotko described. If it wont stay in place a small dab of glue should be enough to keep it in place until you get the screw in. I've assembled it with a nut that was flapping around freely though so it's not impossible or anything.
What I do is to keep the assembly in my left palm and then put the screw driver in and push to compress the spring and start rotating it until it catches the nut. A hex/torx is recommended to avoid slipping and stabbing a hole in your hand. Hell, hex/torx is _always_ recommended IMHO, hate those damn slot screws, they're useless for everything.
I've assembled and used "a couple" of these feeders over the years with all the different iterations and I've never had any trouble with them. I've only snapped one arm but that was my own fault, I was way too rough with it. I also prefer the "original" body version with the bowden tube, the "improvement" I was talked into making is worse IMO.
Hadn't seen that video before, didn't know there were actual installation instructions for it (I've always thought it's pretty self explanatory...). I'm a bit curious what he says about the different body types though, I heard "bowden" in there but that was all I understood
I'm waiting for the Feeder springs, they should be here in a couple of days. I'll attempt the assembly once again after I get it.
Thanks for the advice!
-
By the look of the print I think you printed it just a bit too hot/too fast. One of the side effects of this it's that the printer leaves extra drops of filament. I have printed the feeder way too many times and I still remember that the first time I did I thought of printing it fast fast fast to avoid waiting. But that will give you a part that might give you troubles. Think of this as one of the most important prints. Make it solid, print it at no more than 0.2 and give it some love
Edit. By solid I don't say 100% infill but 3-4 top/bottom layers and 26% infill. That's how I like my roberts
!Hmmm, yeah I have to print another set anyway so I'll keep that in mind, thanks!
-
If you can't get the screw to the nut, check that the nut it's really all the way in. Easiest way to do it, insert the screw without the spring and tight it until the nut goes to the very end. Then you should be able to put the screw with the spring.
I actually was able to narrow down the issue. Upon further study I noticed the nut wouldn't stay put at it's location so when I tried to screw in -
The nut was getting pushed upwards and hence the screw wasn't able to thread in. I think a re-print could solve this issue but I distinctly remember that I never filed or sanded the hole to accommodate the nut. I wonder how the nut would fair with time if i were to constantly change the tension, perhaps a design oversight or am I using a wrong nut? I'm just using the nut that came out of the original feeder but today I went and bought some aftermarket nuts just to see if there was any improvement but no luck so far.
I wanted to use CA Glue to set the nut but CA has zero adhesion with PLA.
-
I'd go with:
Feeder v6 arm
Feeder v6 body
Feeder v6 latch
Feeder v6 snap on guide (not always necessary to use but good to have)
Feeder v6 Yoke and hub 38mm
Hi Robert,
So, today I tried installing your feeder but got stuck at probably the worst place.
I couldn't, I mean absolutely couldn't screw in the spring with dual washers where the 30mm M3 goes into the nut. The nut is so deep down that it's very hard to get the screw to thread in, the spring is very tight and I was unable to get the screw to enter the nut.
.thumb.jpg.2746c6de4ca0cd02a366cbd51b9f30ea.jpg)
Unless you guys have super crazy strength I think it's absolutely impossible to get the screw in. I might be doing something wrong but I couldn't figure out what as I followed this Tutorial on YouTube and did exactly what the guy did -
In fact I called my friend to compress the springs while I tried to screw it in but the screw tension was so high that pliers lost grip after a point and I was afraid of damaging the spring in so I abandoned the assembly and re-assembled the old feeder.
I also need some help regarding certain specifications -
1) Can you tell the me the exact spec of the Ball Bearing? Just in-case I damage it.
2) Where can I buy replacement springs of the old feeder?
Kind of upset that I wasn't able to get it done today cause I had an whole day off!
Anyway, I do want to re-attempt it soon but I'm sort of hesitant to be honest.
Thanks!
-
I'd go with:
Feeder v6 arm
Feeder v6 body
Feeder v6 latch
Feeder v6 snap on guide (not always necessary to use but good to have)
Feeder v6 Yoke and hub 38mm
Cool, that's a big help.
Thanks man!
-
Thanks Robert, can't wait to finally try out your feeder.
If I can make a recommendation it would be to go with the older body design rather than the one designed to use the metal grommet.
The one where you cut a part of the Bowden?
Actually the downloads on YouMagine are a bit confusing.
Can you tell me which files should I download, I currently have printed only one part "Feeder Body For Grommet".
-
I've always used PLA. I haven't tested nylon but I would worry that it's a bit too soft.
Thanks Robert, can't wait to finally try out your feeder.
-
Yes @tinkergnome is right.
The screw that holds the bearing is probably pushing the yoke further from the printer plate, and that's why it's not in the good position.
Look here i made a tutorial to install it:
http://www.ideato3d.be/tutoriels/how-do-i-change-the-feeder-of-the-ultimaker-2/
Thank you so much for the Tutorial.
I had one question, can I print the feeder parts in PLA or Nylon?
-
You can do atomic pulls on the outside of the nozzle to clean it up. Heat it, Push a bit of filament onto the outside it will melt onto the nozzle, let it cool then yank it off.
If you have nylon I would use that for the pulls
Hi, tried your method (using Nylon) but no success!
This way?
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18359-nozzle-exterior-reverse-atomics
Yup but I'll give it another shot keeping in mind the Temps gr5 recommends.
.jpg.432f88303775ddc2e8055cc72d5e33bf.jpg)
Cura 2.1.2 - Why is it so slow ??? Any Fix ?
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
There is a gram calculator. See https://github.com/nallath/PrintCostCalculator
Also instead of bashing people about how sucky / shabby something works, you could also attempt to, I dunno, report issues so they can be fixed...
Thanks, I wish I was a Software Engineer capable of fixing it but I'm just an insignificant user. Take my comment as you may.