MrTechAgent

There is a gram calculator. See https://github.com/nallath/PrintCostCalculator Also instead of bashing people about how sucky / shabby something works, you could also attempt to, I dunno, report issues so they can be fixed... Thanks, I wish I was a Software Engineer capable of fixing it but I'm just an insignificant user. Take my comment as you may.

Old one or Simplify3D all day, Cura 2.1.2 is hopeless.

2.1.2 is absolute garbage. No G.Code viewing, no gram calculator + oodles of bugs. Ultimaker should be embarrassed at their shabby job.

Thanks guys, you were indeed correct. @IRobertI the initial layer issue I was having was related to something else, I spoke too soon.

Hey guys, I'm having trouble with Cura and turning off Brim, even if I close the drop-down menu it still draws the Brim in the print. I also tried changing the diameter to 0mm but then it has this bizarre retraction filled first layer, very strange. The new update sure looks pretty but the old one was more efficient, no doubt.

I was able to fix my "Infill Not Touching" issue by just replacing the PTFE Coupler, it was so odd because I was certain the Short Belts were causing it, I spent many days monitoring the Belt and I swear I found them to be not as well tensioned as I expected them to be, when I moved the axis by my hands, I noticed the Short Belts wobble, very minuscule but noticeable. I tried to tension them tons and tons of times but no avail. Finally, I was fed up and replaced the Coupler as my last option and boy did it do the trick! I'm surprised no one has ever mentioned this issue, for the longest I was certain that it was a belt issue but to my surprise it surely was an extrusion issue. Absolutely bizarre and unexpected. Time to stock up that little shit.

Facing the same issue, tried to find the right tension for the short belts many times but no luck. Sometimes I wonder if the Ultimaker people are competent enough to fix the issue or not, it's been over 2 years since this thread was started and still there is no simple answer. Pathetic.

I found keeping the little black stretch wire that it comes with on works well. if you just like fold part of it back so it doesnt have a chance of getting stuck during your print that should help Yup, I actually discarded it thinking it was part of the packing, LOL! I use a Headband now and it works just as good!

So you were right gr5, the problem was fixed when I tried 'one at a time" but I was right about slicing, Cura is messing up something. The initial layers and Z-Axis position with "one at a time" is perfect and is how it should be but the peculiar thing is when I do it solo, the Z-Axis doesn't go down enough and also the speed I think reverts back to the initial layer speed, almost as if it's considering initial layers of the stick as bottom layers. The solution was simple but at the same time this error in slicing does exist and should be addressed, I think.

Thanks, appreciate the help.

I did but it didn't make a difference as the size was too small for it to have less than full infill but I didn't try that with a 0.25mm Nozzle.

Didn't quite understand? Are you talking about the Z-Axis blobbing in the initial layers of the stick part?

Way ahead of you, I tried 0.25mm but issue stayed because of the Z-Axis not going down enough and according to my leveling for the initial stick layers, it's a Cura issue cause I have printed the exact model before (Ball of the Socket but same thing) and it printed fine, I have attached that picture above when I replied to tommyph1208.

Hey, The model is actually very simple and the printer has successfully printed it before, the successful print was on a different housing but the design stays the same, you can see it for yourself, printer had no issues with the overhang which was minuscule as the sphere was created linearly. You can clearly see how "perfect" the stick is. Answer to your questions - 1) I forgot, sorry...but yeah I printed at 210C. 2) Cooling did help but did not eliminate the issue irrespective of printing temperatures. 3) Good tip but it's still the nozzle touching and blobbing issue so even if I give it time the blob is persistent. 4) True but not really related to the problem. Thanks for the tips anyway!

So, as a beginner I had nothing but respect for Cura but over time I realised that it's pretty stupid. I need some help from you guys who can tell me why is my print failing, I know why but don't know what's causing it, I'm pretty sure it's the slicing but I can't figure out what. Here's the model - As you can see I need to print in that orientation cause I don't want supports in a Ball and Socket joint also there's nothing wrong with the orientation anyway. But....here's when things get interesting, when the stick begins to start it's first layer, the Z-Axis is almost too close to it for multiple layers until it goes up a few layers before the socket starts to print, the second half prints beautifully as the Z-Axis and Nozzle position is exactly as my levelling. I don't understand why Cura is being so difficult, this is such a simple model, my print settings were all perfect as far as I could tell - Layer Height - 0.06mm Speed - 40mm/s Infill - 100% Nozzle - 0.4mm Shell Thickness - 0.4mm and 0.8mm (Tried Both) Initial Layer thickness - 0.3mm Here are pictures, these should clarify the slicing mess - Sometimes Cura is the greatest free thing ever but other times it's just downright stupid as shit. Any help solving this will be appreciated, I will also download the free sample of Simplify3D today and do the same print to know if it's a slicing issue or not.

Hey guys! Sorry for the late update, I got very busy with work. Anyway, I finally managed to get Robert's feeder installed and it works beautifully, I'm a bit pissed at myself to not have upgraded to this feeder from day 1, even Izzy suggested I do but just never did! Robert is a 3D Printing God, this feeder is awesome with NinjaFlex and SemiFlex, I spent hours and hours trying to get NinjaFlex working reliably on the stock feeder and it was just not possible to get it working reliably, the Printer needed my full attention but with Robert's feeder, WOW! I do think SemiFlex prints beautifully without the "Snap-On Guide" as it doesn't buckle in that length but NinjaFlex requires the Guide for sure. I need to talk about Spring, I bough these from DHGate (http://www.dhgate.com/product/10pcs-3d-printer-feeder-spring-for-ultimaker/246309407.html#myaccount_orderdetail-1-null) thinking they would be exactly as the Alcomex (Impossible to buy one that would ship to my Country) one and the seller specifically said "Feeder Spring" but obviously it was different, not too bad....just a bit longer and it did work with Robert's feeder you just need to cut your M3 to 35-38mm depending on the type of tension you want. I used 35mm. Here are a few pics with the aftermarket springs being used, I later removed it cause I thought there was an issue but it was nothing, it does work just fine. Overall, this and the Olsson Block have really made my experience great, thank you - IRobertI, ultiarjan, neotko and peggyb for helping me out, I still need to put some hours into the Feeder to understand it properly but so far so good!

Well I'm certainly not crazy strong. I've never used pliers to compress the spring, I can't quite see how you would even use pliers for it Yes, the nut might be loose or tight depending on your print. If tight, do what neotko described. If it wont stay in place a small dab of glue should be enough to keep it in place until you get the screw in. I've assembled it with a nut that was flapping around freely though so it's not impossible or anything. What I do is to keep the assembly in my left palm and then put the screw driver in and push to compress the spring and start rotating it until it catches the nut. A hex/torx is recommended to avoid slipping and stabbing a hole in your hand. Hell, hex/torx is _always_ recommended IMHO, hate those damn slot screws, they're useless for everything. I've assembled and used "a couple" of these feeders over the years with all the different iterations and I've never had any trouble with them. I've only snapped one arm but that was my own fault, I was way too rough with it. I also prefer the "original" body version with the bowden tube, the "improvement" I was talked into making is worse IMO. Hadn't seen that video before, didn't know there were actual installation instructions for it (I've always thought it's pretty self explanatory...). I'm a bit curious what he says about the different body types though, I heard "bowden" in there but that was all I understood I'm waiting for the Feeder springs, they should be here in a couple of days. I'll attempt the assembly once again after I get it. Thanks for the advice!

Hmmm, yeah I have to print another set anyway so I'll keep that in mind, thanks!

I actually was able to narrow down the issue. Upon further study I noticed the nut wouldn't stay put at it's location so when I tried to screw in - The nut was getting pushed upwards and hence the screw wasn't able to thread in. I think a re-print could solve this issue but I distinctly remember that I never filed or sanded the hole to accommodate the nut. I wonder how the nut would fair with time if i were to constantly change the tension, perhaps a design oversight or am I using a wrong nut? I'm just using the nut that came out of the original feeder but today I went and bought some aftermarket nuts just to see if there was any improvement but no luck so far. I wanted to use CA Glue to set the nut but CA has zero adhesion with PLA.

Hi Robert, So, today I tried installing your feeder but got stuck at probably the worst place. I couldn't, I mean absolutely couldn't screw in the spring with dual washers where the 30mm M3 goes into the nut. The nut is so deep down that it's very hard to get the screw to thread in, the spring is very tight and I was unable to get the screw to enter the nut. Unless you guys have super crazy strength I think it's absolutely impossible to get the screw in. I might be doing something wrong but I couldn't figure out what as I followed this Tutorial on YouTube and did exactly what the guy did - In fact I called my friend to compress the springs while I tried to screw it in but the screw tension was so high that pliers lost grip after a point and I was afraid of damaging the spring in so I abandoned the assembly and re-assembled the old feeder. I also need some help regarding certain specifications - 1) Can you tell the me the exact spec of the Ball Bearing? Just in-case I damage it. 2) Where can I buy replacement springs of the old feeder? Kind of upset that I wasn't able to get it done today cause I had an whole day off! Anyway, I do want to re-attempt it soon but I'm sort of hesitant to be honest. Thanks!

Cool, that's a big help. Thanks man!

If I can make a recommendation it would be to go with the older body design rather than the one designed to use the metal grommet. The one where you cut a part of the Bowden? Actually the downloads on YouMagine are a bit confusing. Can you tell me which files should I download, I currently have printed only one part "Feeder Body For Grommet".

Thanks Robert, can't wait to finally try out your feeder.

Thank you so much for the Tutorial. I had one question, can I print the feeder parts in PLA or Nylon?

Hi, tried your method (using Nylon) but no success! This way? https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18359-nozzle-exterior-reverse-atomics Yup but I'll give it another shot keeping in mind the Temps gr5 recommends.