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2go

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  1. Looks great. I wonder, does this mean that regular Ultimaker 2+ is now discontinued?
  2. Alright, found some info here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/6513 and here https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/pull/1108 -- fingers crossed it gets fixed in the next release. Reverted to Cura 3.6 for now.
  3. Hello! Ultimaker 2+. Upgraded from Cura 3.4.1 to 4.4.1. In 3.4.1 setting 'Retraction Minimum Travel' was visible. In 4.4.1 it is hidden with a message 'This setting has been hidden by the active machine and will not be visible'. Not being able to change the default value increases printing time for the type of things I print by roughly 20% without any visible benefit. Is there a way to change it without going back to an older version of Cura? Thank you.
  4. Hey guys, same problem here. Does anyone know a part number for this broken metal ring thingy? I quickly looked through the source files of 2+ but could not find this part. Don't really want to buy a new feeder over this small metal ring...
  5. I do not have answers to your questions. Just +1 to how awesome these plates are for PLA. No warping, no messing with glue. I use them on my two UM2+ exclusively.
  6. Please let me know if it does not sell locally and you would would like to ship it within EU.
  7. Looking to buy used Ultimaker 2+ in EU. I need a second printer for a large project.
  8. Yeah, I don't think a door will hurt in my usage scenario. I never print anything with overhangs. I usually fill whole bed with small/medium sized prints and print really slow (20 mm/s at 0.2 layer height) for the best surface quality. Each layer usually takes 5-10 minutes to finish so PLA has plenty of time to cool. I do not use fan cooling at all. I'm aware of printedsolid's door but since I am in Europe (this new forum does not show location anymore) the cost+shipping+taxes is the same as getting whole advanced printing kit from Ultimaker. I do not experience a lot o
  9. It is not really my intention to hijack the thread but... I have a question that has been bugging me all day long. When fine tuning settings for perfect adhesion, should one aim to set bed temperature exactly at the glass temperature of PLA? Slightly below, slightly above? Now to contribute to the topic -- if the glass is really level, temperature is about right and glass is clean... maybe try another brand of PLA? I've tested quite a few different ones and the differences were huge in terms of lifting corners. Don't know about glue. I find it messy. People say it works
  10. Thank you. That actually makes sense. I think I will try the door anyway since my printer is located between two large windows that sometimes get opened at the same time. Plus it should serve serve as an added protection layer for my child. Once she learns to walk and grows tall enough to see what's on the table. I usually print at 200 degrees with heated bed under 60 degrees which is relatively cool so heat creep should not be an issue, especially with the top of the printer still open. If I decide to install the door and notice deteriorating print quality, I'll make s
  11. Hello, I'm thinking about purchasing advanced 3d printing kit for 2+. Mainly because of the front enclosure (door). To keep drafts away. Ultimaker says: Use of the front enclosure can be detrimental for PLA prints that require a high level of retractions. Source: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22225-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-pla Does anyone have an idea how and why? Thanks!
  12. Hello, I am selling my Ultimaker 2 Go. 4762 printing hours. Upgrades include: * heated bed from 3dsolex * 40W heater * Olsson block * Ultimaker 2+ metal fan shroud Runs with tinkergnome firmware. New bowden tube, teflon coupler and Swiss Micro nozzle installed about a month ago. Reason for sale: upgraded to Ultimaker 2+. Perfect as a backup printer, someone new to 3d printing, teaching or for general tinkering. It is in by no means perfect condition cosmetically, normal wear and tear signs from two years of use - som
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