Ronan
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Posts posted by Ronan
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PROBLEM SOLVED! I applied a tiny amount of pva glue and the parts came out PERFECT. Same settings as before.
Crazy!
Thanks for the help everyone!
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I'll try that Tinkergnome, picking up some of that hairspray to try that first and then your cold methode. I tried a new print last night, of a different model i created that i am able to share, the same issue happened, this time i used Valcrow's setting and it didn't change anything.
Photos:
This is the bottom of the part that prints against the glass, you can see on the left it lifted:
2 Parts attached, blah! Unusable :(
Printer Settings, clean heated glass:
Layer height 0.09
Shell thickness 0.8
Bottom/top thickness 0.8
Fill density 20
Speed and Temperature
Print speed 40
Support None
Platform adhesion None
Nozzle size 0.4
Initial layer thickness 0
Initial layer line width 100
Travel speed 170
Bottom layer speed 20
infill speed 50
top/bottom speed 20
outer shell speed 30
inner shell speed 40
minimal layer time 10
Cooling fan ON after 0.5mm
PLA Setting of 210 degree, Heated Bed 60 degree, Flow 100%, Fan 100% (turns on at 0.5mm layer height).
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I tried taking photos with my new cell, it all comes out quite blurry. I did buy a new camera so should make life easier!
1) Glass is spotless, everytime. I'll try the glue stick trick, i'v been told (and printed a lot) on bareglass and it alwaya comes out great... but not those new prints :(
2) Bed is always set at 60 degree's when printing PLA, in a closed environment (ulti door+hood)
3) See above
4) can't round those corners
5) tried with brim, it actually lifted part of the brim where the edge lifted and curled back (rest of the brim was fine, but it created a 'lifted pocket' where that corner was). Also brims DESTROYS the finish every time so its a huge hassle (it leaves nasty marks/etc and all the sharp edges are gone).
6) Iv leveled it, to what i think was perfect, now i wonder. I'v printed tiny parts perfectly, but all on round bases... Now those need a perfect fitment and it's just not working out and driving me nuts (at 10ish hours per print, it's such a waste).
I always let the parts cool off completely, they just pop off = yay easy. Learned that one the first day after wanting to get something off quickly and breaking it! lol
I'll check my bed alignment for the 100th time and try the pva glue trick to see if it helps (and go back to using brim).
Edit: I have added the settings to the original post.
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I got your e-mails and i'll respond to it today once i am back on the computer. I'll send you the file/settings/etc, maybe we can see wth is going on!
Thanks
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It happens on sharp corners but on rounded corners too (less though), which are usually thinner but sometimes they are not.
Imagine a cylinder i am printing vertically. The edges of the cylinder against the bed are going to curl up a bit. If i glue 2 ovals together, they won't match up perfectly and i have to use filler/sand/paint which kills my profit.
My bed temp is a consistent 60 degree's throughout the print. If i print 1 part and it takes 1 hour it's fine, but if it takes longer the edges will start to curl up. If i am printing 5-6 parts and it takes 8-12 hours (which is very common), then the edges will get that 1-2mm curling upward and i have to use filler and then sand it when gluing the parts. It goes from being a 10 minute gluing job to 1-2 hours...
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3ntr is dual extruder, heated bed, FULLY enclosed and made from CNC steel and alloy and has a drive system that does not fail. Used it for 2.5 blissful years.
Thanks, the 3NTR is currently on the top of the list. I remember it from our chat a few months ago
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I have perfect adhesion, the problem comes from the print touching the glass curling back on the edges. I don't have a macro lens so i can't take a photo, but instead of everything being flat, i'll have 1-2mm of plastic that seems to melt after a few hours touching the bed and then curls backward creating an ugly seam.
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Anyone else has another idea what is happening? Bed was already set at 60 degrees...
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Different colors and different materials, especially a soluble one for supports.
Our biggest issue is most multi-extruder printers use 1.75mm filaments. We have a storage full of 3mm filaments since that's what our 4 ultimaker's use. It would suck to have to rebuy the same colors but in 1.75mm...
Also after learning that our $45,000+ 3D printers did the exact same job as our Ultimaker 2+ (same quality, same speed, might be a bit more reliable but not much more), we aren't keen in purchasing another super expensive 3D printer. Good on Ultimaker for having such a premium professional product at that price!
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I was wrong, I already had it set at 60 degrees.
So what is causing the issue? Build plate is perfectly leveled too.
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Yepp which is why i think i'll have to go to another company, which is annoying (means more spare parts, new machine, retrain employee's, etc...).
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Thank you, ill take a look.
Do you happen to know a solid solution for a dual extruder (or more) for the ultimaker 2? A lot of websites have dead links which isn't reassuring!
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Hey guys, we currently run 4 ulti's 2+/E+ and they are great... but we really need a dual extruder (or more) enclosed printer... Anyone happen to use one they can recommend?
Our option is to grab a regular Ultimaker 2 and fit an aftermarket dual (or more) extruder kit if anyone can recommend one... Or go for another brand (we don't want to do that tbh...)
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Thank you, i will try to lower the build temp.
I am not sure if the elephant feet is the issue, since to me it seems to 'peel back onto itself' on the edges, but maybe thats a side effect of the elephant feet after hours being heated at 70 degrees...
I will try tonight
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How do you guys print with PLA for perfectly flat prints against the glass?
I keep getting corners lifting just enough to create a ugly seem line.... Which is annoying because the bed is perfectly leveled and even printing with a brim or a raft the issue persist... It seems to happen when the edges/parts are thinner and the prints are long (a few hours to 12+ hour long prints).
I use standard Ultimaker 2+ PLA settings (in a heated chamber, bed is set at 70 degree's). Do i go hotter bed? Colder bed?
Thanks
Edit:
Settings used:
I tried 3 prints with Colorfabb PLA Sky Blue and with Colorfabb PLA Dutch Orange. Both came out with the exact problems.
Print/Cura Setting:
Layer height 0.1
Shell thickness 1.2
Retractions On
Bottom/Top Thickness 0.72
Fill Density 22%
Print speed 30
No Support
No Platform Adhesion (i tried brim and raft, same issue happens, less on the raft but the bottom 'flat' quality suffers too much)
Nozzle Size 0.4
Initial layer thickness 0.15
Initial layer line width 100%
Travel speed 120
Bottom layer speed 20
infill speed 50
top/bottom speed 20
outer shell speed 30
inner shell speed 40
minimal layer time 10
Cooling fan ON after 0.5mm
Printer Setting:
PLA Setting of 210 degree, Heated Bed 60 degree, Flow 100%, Fan 100% (turns on at 0.5mm layer height).
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UM2+ new feeder is enough to justify buying it, it simply works. I have put PLA, ABS, wood/metal/flexible PLA rolls through it and it just works.
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I own 2x U2+ and 2x U2E+ and we couldn't be happier (we use them for our 3D Design/Printing business). I would be pretty pissed off if i would have purchases 4 printers to have them outdated a week or so after!
Luckily in many countries you are protected from issues like that. Some place its 10 days, 2 weeks, 30 days, and you can return the product (some states in the US, they have to let you now if there's a new model coming out and/or a sale coming, all within 30 days of your time of purchase, if they don't, its a valid reason for a return). It also depends of where you bought it and store policies when there's no regional policies on the topic.
A place like ADAFRUIT would never see my business with policies like they have. Plenty of other businesses with proper store policies that i'm more than willing to throw money at.
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I play EVE-Online. On steam you can catch me sometimes on all the Total Wars, and all the Warhammer 40k. I'm also sometimes on World of Tank, World of Warships, SWTOR and STO.
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Well that explains it haha... thanks!
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This is for an ultimaker 2+ Extended.
So my nozzle temperature shows 20-22 degree's on startup when i go in the maintenance section to 'heat nozzule up' to do a atomic pull.
Is that normal? Shouldn't it say 0 degrees since the printer was off (has been off overnight)... I'm not at the workshop so i can't compare against the other printers...
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Owning a few Form2 and selling SLA printing services i have to say this:
#1 Daylight curing resin either takes for ever to cure or cures so fast it's useless unless you are in a dark room to set it up
#2 Not being able to use my phone for hours isn't practical (print at night? buy a second phone/itouch kinda thing?)
#3 How much is the resin? If it's proprietary then they can charge w/e they want
#4 Not a single video to show it in usage (it's all fake demo's and what not)
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Received 3 large packages yesterday.
Dutch orange looks really nice (well they all do! olive green is mmmm too). Going to do a few test prints over the weekend.
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Yes i can't wait to see the colors. Our company has a orange theme so i was thinking of printing samples for the website in dutch orange.
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Ordered 3x of each colors (including the white) to restock our supplies.
Hopefully the white isn't that problematic... a lot of people like having their prototypes printed in white.
Printing PLA flat (minimize seam lines)
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
I put up a few photos, i don't know why your browser isn't showing them...
I have done 2 test prints, with glue stick it eliminates 80% of the issue, with pva/water mix about 90% of the issue. I will try with Aqua Net Hairspray tonight.